Some more pattern

1 files changed, 45 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
index 20a0430..e7fb5ba 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
@@ -40,6 +40,7 @@ Fabric
 ^^^^^^
 
 * About 2 m of linen or cotton shirting fabric.
+* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing 
 
 Notions
 ^^^^^^^
@@ -222,9 +223,32 @@ and
 Cut four of the shoulder pieces, two of the front bands, two of each
 collar piece, four of each cuff piece and two of the tongue.
 
+Cut two or four cuff pieces also in interfacing, and one or two collar
+pieces if not using a simple collar band.
+
 Keep all scraps, as you will need them later to cut some small
 reinforcement patches.
 
+Collar and Cuffs
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Put the collar band pieces right sides together, backstitch the sides
+and top, leaving the bottom free to attach it to the shirt.
+
+Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press.
+
+.. note::
+
+   If making a full collar rather than a collar band refer to its
+   construction instructions, and you will probably need to add one or
+   two layers of interfacing.
+
+Put two cuff pieces right sides together with the interfacing on top,
+backstitch the sides and front (the shorter base of the trapezium),
+leaving the other base free to attach it to the sleeve.
+
+Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press.
+
 Front
 ^^^^^
 
@@ -278,9 +302,30 @@ Pin the other band to the wrong side of the front and hem stitch it to
 the shirt on all four sides, again catching each gather in a stitch, so
 that the raw edges of the slit are fully encased.
 
+Pin half of the collar to one shoulder piece, starting from the back,
+then pin them to the front in such a way that the collar ends right on
+the placket. Mark the position of the shoulder piece on the front and
+remove the collar from the assembly.
+
+Sandwitch the front between the two shoulder pieces, right sides
+together, in the position measured above, and backstitch the two
+shoulders. Press up.
+
+.. note::
+
+   This isn't the way the shirt was assembled in the original
+   instructions, where the shoulder piece was attached to the back
+   first.
+
+   This way you save one seam, and I believe that it also makes it
+   easier to adjust the armscyes holes to fit.
+
 Back
 ^^^^
 
+Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the top
+edge of the back, starting and ending about 18 cm from the sides.
+
 Assembly of the body
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^