Merge branch 'liliana'

1 files changed, 219 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7a3bfeb
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,219 @@
+Liliana Nightgown
+=================
+
+.. figure:: 0311-attached_sleeves.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+This nightgown is named after my great-aunt who used to make nightgowns
+with a crocheted yoke and a simple rectangular cotton body for the whole
+extended family.
+
+While it's not an historical pattern, it does bear a lot of resemblance
+to the simplest type of late victorian and edwardian chemise, and it can
+definitely be used as one.
+
+Most of the time and skill required for this pattern is in the crocheted
+yoke (for which at the moment there isn't a real pattern, but just the
+shape required); the sewing part is based on simple rectangles, straight
+seams and just a few pleats for shaping.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* About 1 – 1.5 m double width (i.e. 140 - 160 cm wide) lightweight cotton
+  or linen fabric.
+
+In the 1980s my great aunt used mostly cotton prints, but of course
+white shirt linen is very confortable alternative (and since it's
+underwear it doesn't have to be the nice dense kind, but lighter and
+cheaper options are fine).
+
+Yarn
+^^^^
+
+* One ball thin crochet cotton or linen yarn.
+
+The yoke is worked in a lace stitch; for a fine linen one, especially if
+used as a chemise, it can be something thin enough to be worked with a 1
+– 1.5 mm hook, but my great aunt answer to that suggestion would have
+been “make it yourself” and she used a relatively thicker yarn with a 2
+– 2.5 mm hook.
+
+Alternatively, you can use 0.25 m of lace fabric.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread matching the yarn;
+* sewing thread matching the fabric.
+
+Yoke Pattern
+------------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich/index`.
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``bust_circ`` (G04)
+   Bust circumference.
+``waist_circ`` (G07)
+   Waist circumference.
+``hip_circ`` (G09)
+   Hip circumference; this is not used in the yoke pattern, but will be
+   needed later when cutting the body of the nightgown.
+``across_back_b`` (I08)
+   Width of the back from armscye to armscye.
+``neck_circ`` (G02)
+   Circumference at the base of the neck.
+``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
+   Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back.
+
+the file :download:`../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
+default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`liliana_nightgown_yoke.val`.
+
+Fabric Pattern
+--------------
+
+After making the yoke, try it on and measure the distance from the end
+of the yoke to where you want the nightgown to end, plus 2.5 cm for
+sewing allowances.
+
+.. tip:: A good length is around knee level (just above or just below):
+   for a longer garment a wider hem circumference than 160 cm is
+   recommended, which can be reached by adding triangular gores to the
+   sides.
+
+The body of the nightgown is a rectangle as high as the distance
+measured above and *at least* 20 cm wider than the ``hip_circ``
+measurement, up to the full width of the fabric.
+
+The sleeves are two rectangles 20 cm high ad as wide as the full length
+of the armscyes of the yoke plus 2-4 cm.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Yoke
+^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0101-yoke_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+   The back of the yoke: other than the meander band around the bottom
+   it's completely made of empty squares.
+
+.. figure:: 0102-yoke_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+   The front of the yoke: after completing the meander band at the
+   bottom, the back has been used as a reference to center a design in
+   the middle of it.
+
+Following the shape of the pattern, without the sewing allowances, make
+the yoke twice in filet crochet, starting with a simple back and adding
+a decorative pattern to the front.
+
+Alternatively, use any other tecnique (knitting, bobbin lace, etc.) to
+make two yokes (with no sewing allowances) or cut them in fabric with
+sewing allowances.
+
+Join the sides and shoulders of the two yokes in a way that is
+appropriate for the tecnique used.
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Proceed with the measurements of the fabric pattern above and cut the
+body and the two sleeves.
+
+Sewing
+^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0301-seam_alignment.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Using thread that matches the fabric, sew the lenght of the body
+with a flat felled seam: wrong sides together align the one edge of the
+fabric at 5 mm from the other edge and sew with 1 cm sewing allowance.
+
+.. figure:: 0302-flat_felled_center_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press, fold and press the wider allowance so that all raw edges are
+covered and topstitch.
+
+.. figure:: 0303-top_edge_hem.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold down the top edge of the fabric once 5 mm *towards the right side*,
+sew about 2 mm from the fold.
+
+Do the same to the sleeves: flat fell the sleeve in a short tube, and
+fold down its top edge.
+
+.. tip::
+
+   .. figure:: 0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg
+      :align: center
+
+   Flat fell the seams of the two sleeves so that they are symmetrical,
+   and then attach them to the yoke with the fell facing towards the
+   back.
+
+.. figure:: 0306-bottom_edge_hem.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold down the hem of the nightgown twice 1 cm and topstitch; if your
+machine has a fancy stitch that visually resembles the yoke you can use
+that in the thread that matches the yoke, otherwise use a simple
+straight stitch in the thread that matches the fabric.
+
+.. figure:: 0307-sleeve_hem.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Do the same to the hem of the sleeves.
+
+.. figure:: 0308-pinned_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0309-pinned_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Pin the body to the lower edge of the yoke, with the right side of the
+body on the wrong side of the yoke, overlapping by 5 mm excluding any
+scalloped edge of the yoke.
+
+Start by aligning the center back with the flat felled seam, the the
+center front with the opposite side of the body, and the quarter points
+of the body on the front side of the yoke, about 2 cm from the sides;
+distribute the excess fabric around the center front and back by making
+pleats that face towards the center back.
+
+Using thread that matches the yoke, topstitch with a narrow zig zag.
+
+.. figure:: 0311-attached_sleeves.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Repeat the same to the sleeves, aligning the seam with the bottom of the
+armscye and making a box pleat on the top of the shoulder.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+.. figure:: ramie_nightgown_3_4.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+   The first version of the nightgown with the yoke worked with thicker
+   yarn and the body in white ramie.