Completed instructions and pictures for the nightgown.

1 files changed, 80 insertions, 9 deletions

diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst
index bf03a24..7a3bfeb 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/liliana_nightgown/index.rst
@@ -1,10 +1,21 @@
 Liliana Nightgown
 =================
 
-.. .. figure:: 
+.. figure:: 0311-attached_sleeves.jpg
    :align: center
 
-This nightgown is named after my great-aunt 
+This nightgown is named after my great-aunt who used to make nightgowns
+with a crocheted yoke and a simple rectangular cotton body for the whole
+extended family.
+
+While it's not an historical pattern, it does bear a lot of resemblance
+to the simplest type of late victorian and edwardian chemise, and it can
+definitely be used as one.
+
+Most of the time and skill required for this pattern is in the crocheted
+yoke (for which at the moment there isn't a real pattern, but just the
+shape required); the sewing part is based on simple rectangles, straight
+seams and just a few pleats for shaping.
 
 Materials
 ---------
@@ -12,12 +23,26 @@ Materials
 Fabric
 ^^^^^^
 
-* About 1 m double width cotton or linen fabric.
+* About 1 – 1.5 m double width (i.e. 140 - 160 cm wide) lightweight cotton
+  or linen fabric.
+
+In the 1980s my great aunt used mostly cotton prints, but of course
+white shirt linen is very confortable alternative (and since it's
+underwear it doesn't have to be the nice dense kind, but lighter and
+cheaper options are fine).
 
 Yarn
 ^^^^
 
-* Thin crochet cotton or linen yarn.
+* One ball thin crochet cotton or linen yarn.
+
+The yoke is worked in a lace stitch; for a fine linen one, especially if
+used as a chemise, it can be something thin enough to be worked with a 1
+– 1.5 mm hook, but my great aunt answer to that suggestion would have
+been “make it yourself” and she used a relatively thicker yarn with a 2
+– 2.5 mm hook.
+
+Alternatively, you can use 0.25 m of lace fabric.
 
 Notions
 ^^^^^^^
@@ -65,6 +90,11 @@ After making the yoke, try it on and measure the distance from the end
 of the yoke to where you want the nightgown to end, plus 2.5 cm for
 sewing allowances.
 
+.. tip:: A good length is around knee level (just above or just below):
+   for a longer garment a wider hem circumference than 160 cm is
+   recommended, which can be reached by adding triangular gores to the
+   sides.
+
 The body of the nightgown is a rectangle as high as the distance
 measured above and *at least* 20 cm wider than the ``hip_circ``
 measurement, up to the full width of the fabric.
@@ -78,6 +108,19 @@ Instructions
 Yoke
 ^^^^
 
+.. figure:: 0101-yoke_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+   The back of the yoke: other than the meander band around the bottom
+   it's completely made of empty squares.
+
+.. figure:: 0102-yoke_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+   The front of the yoke: after completing the meander band at the
+   bottom, the back has been used as a reference to center a design in
+   the middle of it.
+
 Following the shape of the pattern, without the sewing allowances, make
 the yoke twice in filet crochet, starting with a simple back and adding
 a decorative pattern to the front.
@@ -101,13 +144,19 @@ Sewing
 .. figure:: 0301-seam_alignment.jpg
    :align: center
 
-Using the thread that matches the fabric, sew the lenght of the body
+Using thread that matches the fabric, sew the lenght of the body
 with a flat felled seam: wrong sides together align the one edge of the
 fabric at 5 mm from the other edge and sew with 1 cm sewing allowance.
 
+.. figure:: 0302-flat_felled_center_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Press, fold and press the wider allowance so that all raw edges are
 covered and topstitch.
 
+.. figure:: 0303-top_edge_hem.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Fold down the top edge of the fabric once 5 mm *towards the right side*,
 sew about 2 mm from the fold.
 
@@ -123,22 +172,39 @@ fold down its top edge.
    and then attach them to the yoke with the fell facing towards the
    back.
 
+.. figure:: 0306-bottom_edge_hem.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Fold down the hem of the nightgown twice 1 cm and topstitch; if your
 machine has a fancy stitch that visually resembles the yoke you can use
 that in the thread that matches the yoke, otherwise use a simple
 straight stitch in the thread that matches the fabric.
 
+.. figure:: 0307-sleeve_hem.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Do the same to the hem of the sleeves.
 
+.. figure:: 0308-pinned_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0309-pinned_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Pin the body to the lower edge of the yoke, with the right side of the
 body on the wrong side of the yoke, overlapping by 5 mm excluding any
 scalloped edge of the yoke.
 
-Start in the center back with the flat felled seam and distribute the
-excess fabric into the front by making pleats that face towards the
-sides.
+Start by aligning the center back with the flat felled seam, the the
+center front with the opposite side of the body, and the quarter points
+of the body on the front side of the yoke, about 2 cm from the sides;
+distribute the excess fabric around the center front and back by making
+pleats that face towards the center back.
 
-Using the thread that matches the yoke, topstitch with a narrow zig zag.
+Using thread that matches the yoke, topstitch with a narrow zig zag.
+
+.. figure:: 0311-attached_sleeves.jpg
+   :align: center
 
 Repeat the same to the sleeves, aligning the seam with the bottom of the
 armscye and making a box pleat on the top of the shoulder.
@@ -146,3 +212,8 @@ armscye and making a box pleat on the top of the shoulder.
 Gallery
 -------
 
+.. figure:: ramie_nightgown_3_4.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+   The first version of the nightgown with the yoke worked with thicker
+   yarn and the body in white ramie.