Start drafting basic womanswear jeans

2 files changed, 372 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..47c8028
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val
@@ -0,0 +1,271 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern labelPrefix="en">
+    <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.9.1</version>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <description/>
+    <notes/>
+    <patternName>Basic Jeans</patternName>
+    <patternNumber/>
+    <company/>
+    <patternLabel dateFormat="MM-dd-yyyy" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+        <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="leg circumference: %finalMeasurement_hem_circ% cm"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="waist: %finalMeasurement_waist_circ% cm at %finalMeasurement_waist_position% cm from waist"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+    </patternLabel>
+    <finalMeasurements>
+        <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_position" name="waist_position"/>
+        <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_circ" name="waist_circ"/>
+        <finalMeasurment formula="#jeans_bottom_width * 2" name="hem_circ"/>
+    </finalMeasurements>
+    <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit"/>
+    <increments>
+        <increment formula="4" name="#waistband_depth"/>
+        <increment formula="5" name="#waist_position"/>
+        <increment formula="highhip_circ" name="#waist_circ"/>
+        <increment formula="19" name="#jeans_bottom_width"/>
+        <increment description="3.25 cm if hips &lt; 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise" formula="3.25" name="#front_curve_distance"/>
+        <increment description="4.5 cm if hips &lt; 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise" formula="4.5" name="#back_curve_distance"/>
+        <increment description="5 or 6 cm" formula="5" name="#crutch_ease"/>
+        <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/>
+    </increments>
+    <previewCalculations/>
+    <draw name="jeans">
+        <calculation>
+            <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="rise_length_side - #waist_position" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="height_waist_side_to_hip - #waist_position" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="height_waist_back - #waist_position" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="2" id="5" length="CurrentLength/2 - #waist_position / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.124128" name="A4" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="2" id="6" length="hip_circ / 12" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="6" id="7" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="6" id="8" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="7" id="9" length="hip_circ / 4 - 0.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
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+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="180" center="6" color="cornflowerblue" id="12" penStyle="hair" radius="#front_curve_distance" type="simple"/>
+            <line firstPoint="11" id="13" lineColor="black" secondPoint="7" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="10" angle2="AngleLine_A10_A6" color="black" id="14" length1="3" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="10" point4="7" type="simpleInteractive"/>
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+            <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="16" length="#jeans_bottom_width / 2 - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A12" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="280" angle2="90" color="black" id="18" length1="4" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="15" point4="9" type="simpleInteractive"/>
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+            <point firstPoint="4" id="20" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A14" secondPoint="16" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
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+            <point angle="90" basePoint="52" id="53" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.95723" my="-1.84863" name="A21" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="350" angle2="360" center="53" color="violet" id="54" penStyle="hair" radius="#waist_circ / 4 + 1.5" type="simple"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" curve="54" id="55" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A22" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
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+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="180" center="48" color="cornflowerblue" id="60" penStyle="hair" radius="#back_curve_distance" type="simple"/>
+            <line firstPoint="53" id="61" lineColor="black" secondPoint="51" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_A21_A19" color="black" id="62" length1="8" length2="12" penStyle="hair" point1="59" point4="51" type="simpleInteractive"/>
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+            <operation angle="-asinD(#crutch_ease/Line_A17_A25)" center="63" id="104" suffix="a1" type="rotation">
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+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
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+                    <node idObject="85" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="86" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="116" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="122" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <iPaths>
+                    <record path="99"/>
+                    <record path="102"/>
+                    <record path="126"/>
+                </iPaths>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>91</record>
+                    <record>92</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+        </details>
+        <groups>
+            <group id="113" name="crutch_ease" tool="104" visible="true">
+                <item tool="51"/>
+                <item tool="53"/>
+                <item tool="55"/>
+                <item tool="73"/>
+                <item tool="74"/>
+                <item tool="75"/>
+                <item tool="76"/>
+                <item tool="103"/>
+            </group>
+        </groups>
+    </draw>
+</pattern>
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1aa4e7d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,101 @@
+Basic Jeans
+===========
+
+.. .. figure:: leggings.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+These are, construction wise, the same as the menswear
+:doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`,
+drafted 
+
+The default setting is for the jeans to sit on the low waist, but it can
+be adjusted to go to the natural waist.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* Between 1 and 1.5 m of sturdy trouser fabric: denim, corduroy,
+  heavyweight linen etc. or technical breathing and abrasion resistant
+  2nd layer fabric;
+* 50 cm pocket fabric.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* zipper, as long as the fly piece from the pattern;
+* a suitable button;
+* 16 cm of 2 cm wide elastic;
+* optional: 2.5 m bias binding to finish some raw edges (any colour, as
+  it won’t show).
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`.
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``highhip_circ`` (G08)
+   circumference of the low waist, where these jeans are designed to
+   sit;
+``hip_circ`` (G09)
+   circumference of the hips;
+``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20)
+   vertical distance from Waist to Hip;
+``rise_length_side`` (N08)
+   vertical distance from Waist side down to Crotch level;
+``height_waist_back`` (A23)
+   height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back,
+   going over the buttocks;
+
+the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
+default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`basic_jeans.val`.
+
+In the table of variables in Valentina you can also set the following
+increments:
+
+``waistband_depth``
+   height of the waistband, e.g. 4 cm;
+``waist_position``
+   the distance between the natural waist and the waist of the jeans:
+   the drafting system suggested 5 cm;
+``waist_circ``
+   the circumference where the waist of the jeans will be: equals to
+   ``highip_circ`` if ``waist_position`` is 5 cm;
+``jeans_bottom_width``
+   width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 19 cm gives a
+   straight cut on average sizes;
+``front_curve_distance``
+   3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise;
+``back_curve_distance``
+   4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise;
+``crutch_ease``
+   5 or 6 cm;
+``sewing_allowance``
+   enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams.
+
+After adding all measurements, adjust the parameters of curves A9_A6 and
+A24_A19 so that they about touch the cornflower blue arcs.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+See the instructions for the
+Menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`
+
+Gallery
+-------
+