Jeans: new pattern

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+Basic Jeans
+===========
+
+.. figure:: trousers_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Classic 4 pockets [#four]_ jeans with a zippered front.
+
+This pattern is suitable to make regular jeans, but also technical
+pants, when using appropriate fabric, and of course the legs can be
+shortened to above the knee for the summer.
+
+.. [#four] Adding the fifth pocket should be trivial, and may be added
+   to a future version of the pattern, but, I, er… forgot it.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* between 1 and 1.5 m of sturdy trouser fabric: denim, corduroy,
+  heavyweight linen etc. or technical breathing and abrasion resistant
+  2nd layer fabric; * 50 cm pocket fabric.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* zipper, as long as the fly piece from the pattern;
+* a suitable button;
+* 16 cm of 2 cm wide elastic;
+* optional: 2.5 m bias binding to finish some raw edges (any colour, as
+  it won't show).
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``waist_natural_circ`` (O03)
+   circumference of the trousers waist, about 5 cm below the waist;
+``hip_circ`` (G09)
+   circumference of the seat;
+``rise_length_side_sitting`` (N04)
+   body rise, sitting on a stool;
+``leg_crotch_to_floor`` (M01)
+   from crotch level to the floor, between the legs;
+
+the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file
+and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`basic_jeans.val`.
+
+You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the
+table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible
+and you probably only need to set ``easy_fitting``, ``waist_ease`` and
+``jeans_bottom_width``.
+
+``seam_allowance``
+   this is the total sewing allowance, and should be big enough for flat
+   felled seams; e.g. 2 cm;
+``easy_fitting``
+   set this to 1 to make the pattern easy fitting, to 0 for a tigher
+   fit;
+``waist_ease``
+   e.g. 2 cm; with prominent (and squishy) bellies it's better to add
+   no waist ease;
+``jeans_bottom_width``
+   width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 20 cm gives a
+   straight cut on average sizes;
+``floor_to_hem``
+   distance from the floor to the desired hem of the trousers, e.g. 6
+   cm;
+``pocket_opening_width``
+   how wide the pocket should be, e.g. 12 cm;
+``pocket_opening_depth``
+   how long the pocket opening should be, e.g. 7.5 cm;
+``pocket_facing_width``
+   how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in width, e.g. 3 cm;
+``pocket_facing_depth``
+   how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in depth, e.g. 5 cm;
+``pocket_depth``
+   how deep the pocket should be, from the top, e.g. 26 cm;
+``pocket_depth_side``
+   where the pocket should stop following the side seam, e.g. 19 cm;
+``pocket_depth_front``
+   where the pocket should stop following the front seam, e.g. 9.5 cm;
+``fly_piece_length``
+   how long the fly piece should be; take care that it isn't as long as
+   to end on the heavily curved portion of the front seam, e.g. 14 cm;
+``fly_piece_width``
+   the width of the fly piece, e.g. 4 cm;
+``back_pocket_width``
+   the width of the back pocket at the top, e.g. 18 cm;
+``back_pocket_depth``
+   the depth of the back pocket, e.g. 18 cm;
+``back_pocket_point_depth``
+   the vertical distance from the tip of the pocket to where the bottom
+   lines start at the sides, e.g. 3 cm;
+``back_pocket_raster``
+   how much the sides of the pockets should taper in before the bottom
+   lines, e.g. 0.5 cm;
+``waistband_height``
+   e.g. 4 cm.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Cut the two sets of pocket bags from pocketing fabric.
+Cut all remaining pieces of the trousers except for the fly piece from
+the folded fabric.
+Cut either the straight or the shaped fly piece from the scraps, once
+with all seam allowances and once with the shorter vertical edge on the
+fold of fabric.
+
+Fronts
+^^^^^^
+
+.. note::
+
+   Sewing the fronts first and then the backs will get rid of most
+   tricky bits sooner rather than later.
+
+   If you prefer to start with an easier part, you can follow the
+   instructions in the :ref:`basic_jeans_back` section, and then return here to
+   prepare the fronts.
+
+.. figure:: 0101-side_pieces_bound_edges.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Bind the edges of the side pieces with bias tape.
+
+.. tip::
+
+   .. figure:: 0101a-side_piece_folded.jpg
+
+   If the fabric isn't very thick, you can also cut the side pieces with
+   1 cm of allowance on the curved edge and press it towards the back
+   once instead of binding it.
+
+
+.. figure:: 0102-side_piece_on_pocketing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put it on the second pocket bag pieces, wrong side over the right side,
+and sew down the curved edge 2 mm from the edge and then again in the
+ditch of the bias tape.
+Baste the top and side of the side piece to the pocket at 1–1.5 cm from
+the edge. Treat them as one piece.
+
+
+.. figure:: 0103-front_pocketing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put the first pocket bag pieces on the fronts, right sides together, sew
+the opening.
+
+.. figure:: 0104-front_pocketing_topstitched.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press open, notch the allowances and press the pocket
+towards the wrong side of the front, making the fabric overlab a tiny
+bit so that the pocketing won't show on the front.
+Topstitch at 2 mm and 8 mm from the edge.
+
+.. figure:: 0105-pocket_bottom.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sew the lower, curved edge of the pocket with a french seam: put the
+pocket bag pieces with the *outer* sides facing and sew 8 mm from the
+edge.
+
+.. figure:: 0106-pocket_bottom_french.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press, notch the curves, turn the pocket bags so that the inner sides
+are facing, sew 1 cm from the edge.
+
+.. figure:: 0107-basted_fronts.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Align the end of the front opening to the marks on the pocket facings
+and baste the pockets to the fronts at the top and side; from now on treat
+them as one piece.
+
+Placket
+^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0201-placket_facing.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, sew the placket facing (the one cut in the fabric
+once) to the *left* front stopping at the notch, press towards the wrong
+side.
+
+.. figure:: 0202-placket_extension.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, sew the placket extension (the one cut on the
+fold) to the *right* front stopping at the notch, press so that it
+extends from the front.  Press in half, and press the remaining
+allowance so that it will remain enclosed in the placket.
+
+.. figure:: 0203-center_front_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, sew the rest of the front seam, starting from the
+notch and keeping the placket away from the seam, press open.
+
+.. figure:: 0204-clipped_allowance_center_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Clip the allowances of the legs at the notch, check that all placket
+pieces can move to the inside.
+
+.. figure:: 0205-flat_felled_center_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Trim the allowance of the left leg of the front seam, press and flat
+fell towards the left leg.
+
+.. note::
+
+   This seam is done with the allowances on the inside rather than
+   outside like the other flat felled seams; doing otherwise would
+   result in a bit of unfinished allowance at the front.
+
+.. figure:: 0206-placket_bottom.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, sew the bottom of the placket extension at half
+the sewing allowance.
+
+.. figure:: 0206-placket_extension_folded.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Turn inside out and topstitch the placket extension close to the
+vertical seam.
+
+.. figure:: 0207-placket_facing_topstitched.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0208-placket_inside.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold down by 1 cm the raw edges of the placket facing (or bind them with
+tape), topstitch it down close to all 3 edges of the facing.
+
+If adding buttons, you can now sew the bottom of the placket close by
+topstitching from the front, but if adding a zipper wait until later.
+
+.. _basic_jeans_back:
+
+Back
+^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0301-back_pockets.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold down the edges of the back pocket once, and the top edge twice,
+press. Sew the top edge 2 mm from the edge and again 1 cm from the edge.
+
+.. figure:: 0302-sewn_pockets.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Topstitch the back pockets to the backs where marked on the pattern,
+using two lines of stitching at 2 mm and 1 cm from the edge, and sewing
+little triangles near the top for reinforcement.
+
+.. figure:: 0303-sewn_yoke.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, sew the back yokes to the backs, press open.
+
+.. figure:: 0304-flat-felled_yoke.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Trim the yoke allowances and press up and fold the back allowances to
+fell them, topstitch at about 8 mm from the seam.
+
+.. figure:: 0305-sewn_center_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, sew the center back seam;
+
+.. figure:: 0306-felled_center_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+fell and topstitch it towards the right side.
+
+Legs
+^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0401-sewn_inseam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0402-flat_felled_inseam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, sew the inseam. Press open, press towards the back
+to flat fell and topstitch.
+
+.. figure:: 0403-side_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right seams together, sew the side seams. Bind the edges together with
+tape, press towards the back.
+
+.. figure:: 0404-side_seam_topstitched.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+If desired, top stitch the allowance of the side seam at 1 cm from the
+seam.
+
+.. tip::
+
+   If using lighter fabric or making shorts you can also flat fell the
+   side seams; topstitching throught the tube of the legs can however
+   turn out to be either annoying or outright difficult, and I wouldn't
+   even attempt it with denim or similar heavyweight fabric.
+
+   If you're not sure, binding the edges with tape and *then*
+   topstitching is safer than flat felling, as this way you can easily
+   unpick the (partial) topstitching seam if it gets too hard to sew,
+   and the edges will be already finished and on the right side.
+
+Waistband
+^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0501-waistband_sewn.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, sew the waistband to the trousers, leaving 2 cm at
+each end.
+
+.. figure:: 0502-waistband_sides.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the waistband right sides together, sew the sides, clip the
+corners, turn inside out and press.
+
+Press the remaining edge of the waistband down 2 cm, press the waistband
+in half so that it encloses all raw edges.
+
+.. figure:: 0504-waistband_elastic.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+With a 3-step zig-zag, sew 8 cm of elastic centered on each side seam
+and pulled over 10 cm of the raw edges.
+
+Topstitch the waistband closed at 2 mm and then at 1 cm from all four
+edges, pulling while sewing over the elastic.
+
+Front closure
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. note::
+
+   This isn't the traditional way to put a zipper in the front of jeans,
+   and it's a bit less neat; however it works just as well, the non-neat
+   parts are hidden from view when the trousers are worn, and it makes
+   it way more easy to change the zipper when it breaks, as it only
+   requires unpicking the zipper seams and a bit of whipstitching.
+
+.. figure:: 0601-left_zipper.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Center the closed zipper on the placket extension, taking care that it
+doesn't extend to the visible part of the front. Machine sew the left
+part of the zipper close to its border and then again closer to the
+teeth, using a zipper foot and moving the cursor out of the way with the
+needle in the fabric while close to it..
+
+.. figure:: 0602-pinned_placket.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0603-right_zipper.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Close the zipper again, pin the trousers closed and sew the right side
+of the zipper to the placket facing by hand with two lines of
+backstitch, taking care to only catch the facing and not the fabric on
+the front.
+
+.. figure:: 0604-placket_bottom.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Whipstitch the bottom of the placket closed.
+
+Attach a button centered above the placket on the waistband and sew the
+corresponding buttonhole on the other end of the waistband, above the
+part with the facing.
+
+Hems
+^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0701-hem.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold down the hem of each leg twice 1 cm, topstitch at 2 mm and again at
+8 mm from the folded edge.
+
+Belt Loops
+^^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0801-loops.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+From the scraps, cut 6 rectangles 8 cm long and 3 cm wide; fold them
+approximately in thirds, press and sew a wide zig zag through the whole
+length.
+
+.. figure:: 0802-loops_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0803-loops_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold down the top and bottom edges a bit less than 1 cm and topstitch
+the loops to the trousers, backstitching back and forth, around the
+waistband e.g. at 4 cm from the center back, 6 cm from the side seams
+(towards the back) and 8 cm from the center front.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+.. figure:: trousers_back.jpg
+   :align: center