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authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2022-10-04 20:35:04 +0200
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2022-11-30 17:18:35 +0100
commitd1e08bf1e70739236584023c21a4113f3e5b91cb (patch)
treeb34a5c34eb5bddca93b996dd77770d1db4675fb4 /source
parent2de8bcefcdbd27e4a299d35451a6610d9222d120 (diff)
Jeans: new pattern
Diffstat (limited to 'source')
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/index.rst2
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0101-side_pieces_bound_edges.jpgbin0 -> 692638 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0101a-side_piece_folded.jpgbin0 -> 907484 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0102-side_piece_on_pocketing.jpgbin0 -> 777132 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0103-front_pocketing.jpgbin0 -> 1014171 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0104-front_pocketing_topstitched.jpgbin0 -> 1060029 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0105-pocket_bottom.jpgbin0 -> 833700 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0106-pocket_bottom_french.jpgbin0 -> 829261 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0107-basted_fronts.jpgbin0 -> 1057574 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0201-placket_facing.jpgbin0 -> 740222 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0202-placket_extension.jpgbin0 -> 1132787 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0203-center_front_seam.jpgbin0 -> 1041276 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0204-clipped_allowance_center_front.jpgbin0 -> 1270464 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0205-flat_felled_center_front.jpgbin0 -> 1730882 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0206-placket_bottom.jpgbin0 -> 893985 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0206-placket_extension_folded.jpgbin0 -> 959452 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0207-placket_facing_topstitched.jpgbin0 -> 1355804 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0208-placket_inside.jpgbin0 -> 1352105 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0301-back_pockets.jpgbin0 -> 719026 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0302-sewn_pockets.jpgbin0 -> 1366209 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0303-sewn_yoke.jpgbin0 -> 1168323 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0304-flat-felled_yoke.jpgbin0 -> 1198792 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0305-sewn_center_back.jpgbin0 -> 1024359 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0306-felled_center_back.jpgbin0 -> 1675217 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0401-sewn_inseam.jpgbin0 -> 1287641 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0402-flat_felled_inseam.jpgbin0 -> 1936887 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0403-side_seam.jpgbin0 -> 1237539 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0404-side_seam_topstitched.jpgbin0 -> 1776412 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0501-waistband_sewn.jpgbin0 -> 1441407 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0502-waistband_sides.jpgbin0 -> 878438 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0504-waistband_elastic.jpgbin0 -> 1263337 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0601-left_zipper.jpgbin0 -> 1396408 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0602-pinned_placket.jpgbin0 -> 1392985 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0603-right_zipper.jpgbin0 -> 1327757 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0604-placket_bottom.jpgbin0 -> 1079047 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0701-hem.jpgbin0 -> 1067712 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0801-loops.jpgbin0 -> 829173 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0802-loops_front.jpgbin0 -> 1330986 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0803-loops_back.jpgbin0 -> 1019642 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val633
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst439
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/measurements.vit35
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_back.jpgbin0 -> 745053 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_front.jpgbin0 -> 824413 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/index.rst10
45 files changed, 1119 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_menswear/index.rst
index 1e14d37..467b982 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_menswear/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/index.rst
@@ -8,3 +8,5 @@ century) blocks for people without breasts.
.. toctree::
:maxdepth: 2
:caption: Contents:
+
+ trousers/index
diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0101-side_pieces_bound_edges.jpg b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/0101-side_pieces_bound_edges.jpg
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+++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/basic_jeans.val
@@ -0,0 +1,633 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern labelPrefix="en">
+ <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+ <version>0.9.0</version>
+ <unit>cm</unit>
+ <description/>
+ <notes/>
+ <patternName>Basic Jeans Block</patternName>
+ <patternNumber/>
+ <company/>
+ <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+ <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/>
+ <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+ </patternLabel>
+ <measurements>measurements.vit</measurements>
+ <increments>
+ <increment description="basic seam allowance" formula="2" name="#seam_allowance"/>
+ <increment description="whether the pattern should be easy fitting, 1 or 0 (fractional values will give a result between close and easy fitting" formula="1" name="#easy_fitting"/>
+ <increment formula="2" name="#waist_ease"/>
+ <increment formula="20" name="#jeans_bottom_width"/>
+ <increment formula="6" name="#floor_to_hem"/>
+ <increment formula="12" name="#pocket_opening_width"/>
+ <increment formula="7.5" name="#pocket_opening_depth"/>
+ <increment formula="3" name="#pocket_facing_width"/>
+ <increment formula="5" name="#pocket_facing_depth"/>
+ <increment formula="26" name="#pocket_depth"/>
+ <increment formula="19" name="#pocket_depth_side"/>
+ <increment formula="9.5" name="#pocket_depth_front"/>
+ <increment formula="14" name="#fly_piece_length"/>
+ <increment formula="4" name="#fly_piece_width"/>
+ <increment formula="18" name="#back_pocket_width"/>
+ <increment formula="18" name="#back_pocket_depth"/>
+ <increment formula="3" name="#back_pocket_point_depth"/>
+ <increment formula="0.5" name="#back_pocket_raster"/>
+ <increment formula="4" name="#waistband_height"/>
+ </increments>
+ <previewCalculations/>
+ <draw name="jeans">
+ <calculation>
+ <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
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+ <nodes>
+ <node after="2" idObject="232" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node before="2" idObject="233" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="234" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="235" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="236" type="NodePoint"/>
+ </nodes>
+ <pins>
+ <record>238</record>
+ <record>239</record>
+ </pins>
+ </detail>
+ <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="247" mx="-19.2949" my="-122.368" name="fly_piece_var" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{769964d0-0c7f-4fbb-bed6-f2b52afd25a7}" version="2" width="#seam_allowance">
+ <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="2" letter="H" mx="-121.845" my="3908.38" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="4">
+ <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+ <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
+ </data>
+ <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="2" mx="-120.242" my="3826.66" rotation="0" visible="true" width="4"/>
+ <grainline arrows="0" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
+ <nodes>
+ <node idObject="243" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node after="1" idObject="244" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node after="1" before="1" idObject="250" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="251" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+ <node before="1" idObject="246" type="NodePoint"/>
+ </nodes>
+ </detail>
+ </details>
+ <groups>
+ <group id="82" name="back_before_crutch_ease" tool="74" visible="false">
+ <item tool="50"/>
+ <item tool="56"/>
+ <item tool="57"/>
+ <item tool="68"/>
+ <item tool="69"/>
+ <item tool="70"/>
+ <item tool="71"/>
+ <item tool="63"/>
+ </group>
+ <group id="110" name="back" visible="false">
+ <item tool="51"/>
+ <item tool="52"/>
+ <item tool="58"/>
+ <item tool="59"/>
+ <item tool="60"/>
+ <item tool="61"/>
+ <item tool="62"/>
+ <item object="76" tool="74"/>
+ <item object="81" tool="74"/>
+ <item tool="86"/>
+ <item tool="85"/>
+ <item tool="55"/>
+ <item tool="104"/>
+ <item object="79" tool="74"/>
+ <item object="77" tool="74"/>
+ <item object="80" tool="74"/>
+ <item object="78" tool="74"/>
+ <item tool="49"/>
+ <item tool="48"/>
+ <item tool="54"/>
+ <item tool="218"/>
+ <item tool="222"/>
+ <item tool="223"/>
+ <item tool="221"/>
+ <item tool="224"/>
+ <item tool="220"/>
+ <item tool="217"/>
+ <item tool="219"/>
+ <item tool="253"/>
+ </group>
+ <group id="111" name="front" visible="false">
+ <item tool="9"/>
+ <item tool="15"/>
+ <item tool="16"/>
+ <item tool="17"/>
+ <item tool="18"/>
+ <item tool="19"/>
+ <item tool="13"/>
+ <item tool="14"/>
+ <item tool="24"/>
+ <item tool="67"/>
+ <item tool="65"/>
+ <item tool="66"/>
+ <item tool="7"/>
+ </group>
+ <group id="146" name="fly_piece" visible="false">
+ <item tool="130"/>
+ <item tool="131"/>
+ <item tool="132"/>
+ <item tool="133"/>
+ <item tool="142"/>
+ <item tool="143"/>
+ <item tool="240"/>
+ <item tool="242"/>
+ <item tool="241"/>
+ </group>
+ <group id="155" name="pocket" visible="true">
+ <item tool="150"/>
+ <item tool="151"/>
+ <item tool="152"/>
+ <item tool="154"/>
+ <item tool="153"/>
+ <item tool="115"/>
+ <item tool="118"/>
+ <item tool="117"/>
+ <item tool="112"/>
+ <item tool="113"/>
+ <item tool="116"/>
+ </group>
+ </groups>
+ </draw>
+</pattern>
diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1b31452
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,439 @@
+Basic Jeans
+===========
+
+.. figure:: trousers_front.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Classic 4 pockets [#four]_ jeans with a zippered front.
+
+This pattern is suitable to make regular jeans, but also technical
+pants, when using appropriate fabric, and of course the legs can be
+shortened to above the knee for the summer.
+
+.. [#four] Adding the fifth pocket should be trivial, and may be added
+ to a future version of the pattern, but, I, er… forgot it.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* between 1 and 1.5 m of sturdy trouser fabric: denim, corduroy,
+ heavyweight linen etc. or technical breathing and abrasion resistant
+ 2nd layer fabric; * 50 cm pocket fabric.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* zipper, as long as the fly piece from the pattern;
+* a suitable button;
+* 16 cm of 2 cm wide elastic;
+* optional: 2.5 m bias binding to finish some raw edges (any colour, as
+ it won't show).
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``waist_natural_circ`` (O03)
+ circumference of the trousers waist, about 5 cm below the waist;
+``hip_circ`` (G09)
+ circumference of the seat;
+``rise_length_side_sitting`` (N04)
+ body rise, sitting on a stool;
+``leg_crotch_to_floor`` (M01)
+ from crotch level to the floor, between the legs;
+
+the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern file
+and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`basic_jeans.val`.
+
+You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the
+table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible
+and you probably only need to set ``easy_fitting``, ``waist_ease`` and
+``jeans_bottom_width``.
+
+``seam_allowance``
+ this is the total sewing allowance, and should be big enough for flat
+ felled seams; e.g. 2 cm;
+``easy_fitting``
+ set this to 1 to make the pattern easy fitting, to 0 for a tigher
+ fit;
+``waist_ease``
+ e.g. 2 cm; with prominent (and squishy) bellies it's better to add
+ no waist ease;
+``jeans_bottom_width``
+ width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 20 cm gives a
+ straight cut on average sizes;
+``floor_to_hem``
+ distance from the floor to the desired hem of the trousers, e.g. 6
+ cm;
+``pocket_opening_width``
+ how wide the pocket should be, e.g. 12 cm;
+``pocket_opening_depth``
+ how long the pocket opening should be, e.g. 7.5 cm;
+``pocket_facing_width``
+ how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in width, e.g. 3 cm;
+``pocket_facing_depth``
+ how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in depth, e.g. 5 cm;
+``pocket_depth``
+ how deep the pocket should be, from the top, e.g. 26 cm;
+``pocket_depth_side``
+ where the pocket should stop following the side seam, e.g. 19 cm;
+``pocket_depth_front``
+ where the pocket should stop following the front seam, e.g. 9.5 cm;
+``fly_piece_length``
+ how long the fly piece should be; take care that it isn't as long as
+ to end on the heavily curved portion of the front seam, e.g. 14 cm;
+``fly_piece_width``
+ the width of the fly piece, e.g. 4 cm;
+``back_pocket_width``
+ the width of the back pocket at the top, e.g. 18 cm;
+``back_pocket_depth``
+ the depth of the back pocket, e.g. 18 cm;
+``back_pocket_point_depth``
+ the vertical distance from the tip of the pocket to where the bottom
+ lines start at the sides, e.g. 3 cm;
+``back_pocket_raster``
+ how much the sides of the pockets should taper in before the bottom
+ lines, e.g. 0.5 cm;
+``waistband_height``
+ e.g. 4 cm.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Cut the two sets of pocket bags from pocketing fabric.
+Cut all remaining pieces of the trousers except for the fly piece from
+the folded fabric.
+Cut either the straight or the shaped fly piece from the scraps, once
+with all seam allowances and once with the shorter vertical edge on the
+fold of fabric.
+
+Fronts
+^^^^^^
+
+.. note::
+
+ Sewing the fronts first and then the backs will get rid of most
+ tricky bits sooner rather than later.
+
+ If you prefer to start with an easier part, you can follow the
+ instructions in the :ref:`basic_jeans_back` section, and then return here to
+ prepare the fronts.
+
+.. figure:: 0101-side_pieces_bound_edges.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Bind the edges of the side pieces with bias tape.
+
+.. tip::
+
+ .. figure:: 0101a-side_piece_folded.jpg
+
+ If the fabric isn't very thick, you can also cut the side pieces with
+ 1 cm of allowance on the curved edge and press it towards the back
+ once instead of binding it.
+
+
+.. figure:: 0102-side_piece_on_pocketing.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Put it on the second pocket bag pieces, wrong side over the right side,
+and sew down the curved edge 2 mm from the edge and then again in the
+ditch of the bias tape.
+Baste the top and side of the side piece to the pocket at 1–1.5 cm from
+the edge. Treat them as one piece.
+
+
+.. figure:: 0103-front_pocketing.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Put the first pocket bag pieces on the fronts, right sides together, sew
+the opening.
+
+.. figure:: 0104-front_pocketing_topstitched.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Press open, notch the allowances and press the pocket
+towards the wrong side of the front, making the fabric overlab a tiny
+bit so that the pocketing won't show on the front.
+Topstitch at 2 mm and 8 mm from the edge.
+
+.. figure:: 0105-pocket_bottom.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Sew the lower, curved edge of the pocket with a french seam: put the
+pocket bag pieces with the *outer* sides facing and sew 8 mm from the
+edge.
+
+.. figure:: 0106-pocket_bottom_french.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Press, notch the curves, turn the pocket bags so that the inner sides
+are facing, sew 1 cm from the edge.
+
+.. figure:: 0107-basted_fronts.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Align the end of the front opening to the marks on the pocket facings
+and baste the pockets to the fronts at the top and side; from now on treat
+them as one piece.
+
+Placket
+^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0201-placket_facing.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, sew the placket facing (the one cut in the fabric
+once) to the *left* front stopping at the notch, press towards the wrong
+side.
+
+.. figure:: 0202-placket_extension.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, sew the placket extension (the one cut on the
+fold) to the *right* front stopping at the notch, press so that it
+extends from the front. Press in half, and press the remaining
+allowance so that it will remain enclosed in the placket.
+
+.. figure:: 0203-center_front_seam.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Right sides together, sew the rest of the front seam, starting from the
+notch and keeping the placket away from the seam, press open.
+
+.. figure:: 0204-clipped_allowance_center_front.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Clip the allowances of the legs at the notch, check that all placket
+pieces can move to the inside.
+
+.. figure:: 0205-flat_felled_center_front.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Trim the allowance of the left leg of the front seam, press and flat
+fell towards the left leg.
+
+.. note::
+
+ This seam is done with the allowances on the inside rather than
+ outside like the other flat felled seams; doing otherwise would
+ result in a bit of unfinished allowance at the front.
+
+.. figure:: 0206-placket_bottom.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Right sides together, sew the bottom of the placket extension at half
+the sewing allowance.
+
+.. figure:: 0206-placket_extension_folded.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Turn inside out and topstitch the placket extension close to the
+vertical seam.
+
+.. figure:: 0207-placket_facing_topstitched.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0208-placket_inside.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Fold down by 1 cm the raw edges of the placket facing (or bind them with
+tape), topstitch it down close to all 3 edges of the facing.
+
+If adding buttons, you can now sew the bottom of the placket close by
+topstitching from the front, but if adding a zipper wait until later.
+
+.. _basic_jeans_back:
+
+Back
+^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0301-back_pockets.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Fold down the edges of the back pocket once, and the top edge twice,
+press. Sew the top edge 2 mm from the edge and again 1 cm from the edge.
+
+.. figure:: 0302-sewn_pockets.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Topstitch the back pockets to the backs where marked on the pattern,
+using two lines of stitching at 2 mm and 1 cm from the edge, and sewing
+little triangles near the top for reinforcement.
+
+.. figure:: 0303-sewn_yoke.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, sew the back yokes to the backs, press open.
+
+.. figure:: 0304-flat-felled_yoke.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Trim the yoke allowances and press up and fold the back allowances to
+fell them, topstitch at about 8 mm from the seam.
+
+.. figure:: 0305-sewn_center_back.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, sew the center back seam;
+
+.. figure:: 0306-felled_center_back.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+fell and topstitch it towards the right side.
+
+Legs
+^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0401-sewn_inseam.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0402-flat_felled_inseam.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Wrong sides together, sew the inseam. Press open, press towards the back
+to flat fell and topstitch.
+
+.. figure:: 0403-side_seam.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Right seams together, sew the side seams. Bind the edges together with
+tape, press towards the back.
+
+.. figure:: 0404-side_seam_topstitched.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+If desired, top stitch the allowance of the side seam at 1 cm from the
+seam.
+
+.. tip::
+
+ If using lighter fabric or making shorts you can also flat fell the
+ side seams; topstitching throught the tube of the legs can however
+ turn out to be either annoying or outright difficult, and I wouldn't
+ even attempt it with denim or similar heavyweight fabric.
+
+ If you're not sure, binding the edges with tape and *then*
+ topstitching is safer than flat felling, as this way you can easily
+ unpick the (partial) topstitching seam if it gets too hard to sew,
+ and the edges will be already finished and on the right side.
+
+Waistband
+^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0501-waistband_sewn.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Right sides together, sew the waistband to the trousers, leaving 2 cm at
+each end.
+
+.. figure:: 0502-waistband_sides.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Fold the waistband right sides together, sew the sides, clip the
+corners, turn inside out and press.
+
+Press the remaining edge of the waistband down 2 cm, press the waistband
+in half so that it encloses all raw edges.
+
+.. figure:: 0504-waistband_elastic.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+With a 3-step zig-zag, sew 8 cm of elastic centered on each side seam
+and pulled over 10 cm of the raw edges.
+
+Topstitch the waistband closed at 2 mm and then at 1 cm from all four
+edges, pulling while sewing over the elastic.
+
+Front closure
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. note::
+
+ This isn't the traditional way to put a zipper in the front of jeans,
+ and it's a bit less neat; however it works just as well, the non-neat
+ parts are hidden from view when the trousers are worn, and it makes
+ it way more easy to change the zipper when it breaks, as it only
+ requires unpicking the zipper seams and a bit of whipstitching.
+
+.. figure:: 0601-left_zipper.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Center the closed zipper on the placket extension, taking care that it
+doesn't extend to the visible part of the front. Machine sew the left
+part of the zipper close to its border and then again closer to the
+teeth, using a zipper foot and moving the cursor out of the way with the
+needle in the fabric while close to it..
+
+.. figure:: 0602-pinned_placket.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0603-right_zipper.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Close the zipper again, pin the trousers closed and sew the right side
+of the zipper to the placket facing by hand with two lines of
+backstitch, taking care to only catch the facing and not the fabric on
+the front.
+
+.. figure:: 0604-placket_bottom.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Whipstitch the bottom of the placket closed.
+
+Attach a button centered above the placket on the waistband and sew the
+corresponding buttonhole on the other end of the waistband, above the
+part with the facing.
+
+Hems
+^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0701-hem.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Fold down the hem of each leg twice 1 cm, topstitch at 2 mm and again at
+8 mm from the folded edge.
+
+Belt Loops
+^^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0801-loops.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+From the scraps, cut 6 rectangles 8 cm long and 3 cm wide; fold them
+approximately in thirds, press and sew a wide zig zag through the whole
+length.
+
+.. figure:: 0802-loops_front.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0803-loops_back.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Fold down the top and bottom edges a bit less than 1 cm and topstitch
+the loops to the trousers, backstitching back and forth, around the
+waistband e.g. at 4 cm from the center back, 6 cm from the side seams
+(towards the back) and 8 cm from the center front.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+.. figure:: trousers_back.jpg
+ :align: center
diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/measurements.vit b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/measurements.vit
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..df7d5db
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/measurements.vit
@@ -0,0 +1,35 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<vit>
+ <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+ <version>0.5.2</version>
+ <read-only>false</read-only>
+ <notes/>
+ <unit>cm</unit>
+ <pm_system>998</pm_system>
+ <personal>
+ <customer/>
+ <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date>
+ <gender>unknown</gender>
+ <email/>
+ </personal>
+ <body-measurements>
+ <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="41"/>
+ <m name="across_back_half_b" value="20"/>
+ <m name="bust_circ" value="102"/>
+ <m name="waist_circ" value="98"/>
+ <m name="waist_natural_circ" value="96"/>
+ <m name="hip_circ" value="99"/>
+ <m name="neck_circ" value="46"/>
+ <m name="shoulder_length" value="15"/>
+ <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent" value="67"/>
+ <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent" value="84"/>
+ <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent" value="54"/>
+ <m name="arm_neck_back_to_wrist_bent" value="82"/>
+ <m name="height_waist_side" value="108"/>
+ <m name="rise_length_side_sitting" value="26"/>
+ <m name="leg_crotch_to_floor" value="76"/>
+ <m name="arm_wrist_circ" value="18"/>
+ <m name="arm_above_elbow_circ" value="32"/>
+ <m name="neck_back_to_bust_b" value="24"/>
+ </body-measurements>
+</vit>
diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_back.jpg b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_back.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..57a784b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_back.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_front.jpg b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_front.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b5b3467
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/trousers_front.jpg
Binary files differ
diff --git a/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7adc8b0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_menswear/trousers/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+**********
+ Trousers
+**********
+
+.. toctree::
+ :maxdepth: 2
+ :caption: Contents:
+
+ basic_jeans/index
+