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authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2023-01-19 09:25:44 +0100
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2023-01-19 09:25:44 +0100
commitea9aa7643c7858d1f3ff5d7a951e8b84d49a3ca2 (patch)
treef2f175566a0b5b2e0e7c9de548e29b9b99c44f48
parent552dba4d3416adca5ba0129e7558433e961a46f8 (diff)
parent2ec8fba01fdf0f7879805280df539e43329f4dc7 (diff)
Merge branch 'shirt_variants'
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpgbin0 -> 2060068 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpgbin0 -> 1969160 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst31
3 files changed, 29 insertions, 2 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpg
new file mode 100644
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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg
new file mode 100644
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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
index 7cf8572..336a354 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
@@ -222,8 +222,8 @@ Cut the full rectangles for the front and back.
If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper
pattern for the armscyes <1880s_shirt_marking_armscyes>`, mark the seam
-lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double
-seaming allowance.
+lines on the front and back, and if you are sure about them cut them
+with a double seaming allowance.
.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg
:align: center
@@ -670,6 +670,33 @@ button and buttonholes on the front placket.
Done! you can now wear your new shirt, and start making the rest of the
half dozen :)
+Variants
+--------
+
+Flat front
+^^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0801-cuts.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+To cut a front with no pleats, cut out a rectangle from the center front
+that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_eccess`` in the pattern and
+as deep as the ``#front_slit_length``.
+
+Continue cutting the slit on each side for ``#button_placket_width * 3``
+plus an additional ``(#front_gathers_width - #button_placket_width) / 2``:
+this will be wider than the front slit that would have been cut for a
+front with pleats, and is required to have space for the gathers below.
+
+.. figure:: 0802-ready.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Fold down the button placket twice either to the right or the wrong
+side, as described above, hemstitch the right placket and topstitch the
+left.
+
+Continue working the rest of the shirt.
+
Gallery
-------