From d6b30bab4776b83888eb1dfb1b2b181186d386dd Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2022 20:17:07 +0200 Subject: Variant for the 1880 shirt --- .../shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst | 21 +++++++++++++++++++++ 1 file changed, 21 insertions(+) diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index b594f29..eaeebde 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -670,6 +670,27 @@ button and buttonholes on the front placket. Done! you can now wear your new shirt, and start making the rest of the half dozen :) +Variants +-------- + +Flat front +^^^^^^^^^^ + +To cut a front with no pleats, cut out a rectangle from the center front +that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_eccess`` in the pattern and +as deep as the ``#front_slit_length``. + +Continue cutting the slit on each side for ``#button_placket_width * 3`` +plus an additional ``#front_gathers_width - #button_placket_width / 2``: +this will be wider than the front slit that would have been cut for a +front with pleats, and is required to have space for the gathers below. + +Fold down the button placket twice either to the right or the wrong +side, as described above, hemstitch the right placket and topstitch the +left. + +Continue working the rest of the shirt. + Gallery ------- -- cgit v1.2.3 From 57c41f64874c6e1b501818497875030c43c6829e Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Fri, 9 Dec 2022 13:56:08 +0100 Subject: Typo in the front slit formula --- source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst | 2 +- 1 file changed, 1 insertion(+), 1 deletion(-) diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index eaeebde..e88f62a 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -681,7 +681,7 @@ that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_eccess`` in the pattern and as deep as the ``#front_slit_length``. Continue cutting the slit on each side for ``#button_placket_width * 3`` -plus an additional ``#front_gathers_width - #button_placket_width / 2``: +plus an additional ``(#front_gathers_width - #button_placket_width) / 2``: this will be wider than the front slit that would have been cut for a front with pleats, and is required to have space for the gathers below. -- cgit v1.2.3 From 2ec8fba01fdf0f7879805280df539e43329f4dc7 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2023 09:25:19 +0100 Subject: Finished flat front variant of the shirt --- .../shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpg | Bin 0 -> 2060068 bytes .../shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1969160 bytes .../historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst | 10 ++++++++-- 3 files changed, 8 insertions(+), 2 deletions(-) create mode 100644 source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpg create mode 100644 source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6fe8221 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0801-cuts.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..02295ea Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/0802-ready.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst index e88f62a..aad06dc 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -222,8 +222,8 @@ Cut the full rectangles for the front and back. If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper pattern for the armscyes <1880s_shirt_marking_armscyes>`, mark the seam -lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double -seaming allowance. +lines on the front and back, and if you are sure about them cut them +with a double seaming allowance. .. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg :align: center @@ -676,6 +676,9 @@ Variants Flat front ^^^^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0801-cuts.jpg + :align: center + To cut a front with no pleats, cut out a rectangle from the center front that is as wide as the calculated ``#gathers_eccess`` in the pattern and as deep as the ``#front_slit_length``. @@ -685,6 +688,9 @@ plus an additional ``(#front_gathers_width - #button_placket_width) / 2``: this will be wider than the front slit that would have been cut for a front with pleats, and is required to have space for the gathers below. +.. figure:: 0802-ready.jpg + :align: center + Fold down the button placket twice either to the right or the wrong side, as described above, hemstitch the right placket and topstitch the left. -- cgit v1.2.3