Finished article on corded petticoatHEADmaster

15 files changed, 391 insertions, 21 deletions

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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0102-marked_cording.svg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0102-marked_cording.svg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2c861dd
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0111-hemming_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0111-hemming_seam.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cac2c40
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0111-hemming_seam.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0112-marking_top.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0112-marking_top.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9bf46a4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0112-marking_top.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6758661
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0114-pinned_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0114-pinned_tape.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bb082d5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0114-pinned_tape.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3d00006
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0116-sewing_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0116-sewing_tape.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0117-backstitching_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0117-backstitching_tape.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg
new file mode 100644
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..dadf7fe
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/corded_petticoat.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/corded_petticoat.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a50490e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/corded_petticoat.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst
index 61325a6..c1d8801 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst
@@ -1,13 +1,45 @@
 Early Victorian Corded Petticoat
 ================================
 
-.. figure:: petticoat.jpg
+.. figure:: corded_petticoat.jpg
    :align: center
 
 .. only:: html
 
    .. contents::
 
+This is one of the basic support layers of the early Victorian era, when
+steel cage crinolines had not been invented yet, and skirt volume was
+obtained by adding layers of petticoats.
+
+It was also used in later years as a cheaper substitute by people who
+couldn't afford metal structures, and thus is can be useful for
+traditional dress or other working class outfits.
+
+Most of the fabric at the waist is pleated and sewn in place, but about
+20 cm are left plain with a drawstring, so that they can be adjusted for
+waist fluctuations or when shared between different people.
+
+While functionally equivalent, it is not an accurate historical
+constructions, since it takes advantage of the double width of modern
+fabric; a rectangle of the same size can however be pieced from narrower
+fabric for more historical accuracy.
+
+The instructions are for handsewing, but of course the cording and the
+side seam can also be sewn by machine; attaching the tape to the top
+needs to be done by hand (or to be significantly changed).
+
+Contrary to other patterns, this is worked flat and only joined in a
+tube at the very last stage: I think that for handsewing this makes the
+work easier to manage, altough it may make the cording a bit slower if
+sewn by machine.
+
+.. note:: I've made this petticoat quite some time ago and I can't find
+   the step-by-step pictures of many stages, but I don't have plans to
+   make another one any time soon, so I've decided to publish the
+   pattern as is. If in the future I'll have a chance to make another
+   petticoat I'll be sure to take the missing pictures.
+
 Materials
 ---------
 
@@ -32,76 +64,182 @@ The pattern for this petticoat is simply a rectangle, about 2-3 m long,
 using the full width of the fabric from selvedge to selvedge.
 
 .. tip:: for many people holding the fabric between their extended arms
-         would result in a 1.5 m lenght; doubling that gives a good
+         would result in a 1.5 m length; doubling that gives a good
          width for the 1840s and early 1850s.
 
 You also need to measure from your waist to mid-calf and from your waist
 to the hips (you can do so with a tape, but also directly with the
 fabric, see the instructions).
 
+After straightening one edge, but before cutting the rest of the fabric,
+measure a point on the straightened edge at about the distance between
+waist and hips plus 2 cm hemming allowance from one selvedge, pin the
+other selvedge at that point and check the length on your body.
+
+The fold should end up somewhere below the mid calf: the finished
+petticoat will be a bit shorter than that because of the cording.
+
+If it's too long, you can fold the fabric up a bit more, but if it's too
+short by more than a few cm you'll have to piece together a taller
+rectangle, possibly cut from the other direction of the fabric.
+
 Instructions
 ------------
 
-On one side of the fabric mark a line on the wrong side of the fabric at
-the distance between the waist and the hips from one of the selvedges.
+.. figure:: 0101-folded_fabric.svg
+   :align: center
+
+On the wrong side of the fabric mark a line parallel to one of the
+selvedges at the distance you've measured above.
+
+Align the other selvedge to this line, wrong sides together, fold it and
+press.
+
+.. tip:: You may want to add a few safety pins to help managing the
+      fabric while moving it.
+
+If the line you've marked is significantly different from the waist -
+hips distance, also mark that line.
+
+.. figure:: 0102-marked_cording.svg
+   :align: center
+
+Divide the distance between the hem fold and the hips in 8, on the wrong
+side mark parallel lines at that distance from each other, starting from
+the hem fold.
+
+.. this should have figure 0103-cording_hem.jpg
+
+Cut 5 pieces of 5 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric,
+put it in the fold at the hem of the petticoat leaving 2 cm free on each
+side, pinning it in place with safety pins, and sew a running stitch as
+close to the cording as possible to keep it in place.
+
+.. this should have figure 0104-cording_hem_second_row.jpg
+
+Put a second piece of cording between the two layers of fabric above the
+seam, pin it with safety pins and sew a running stitch above it as
+before.
+
+.. maybe 0105-thick_cording_done.jpg
+
+Repeat with the 3 other pieces of 5 mm cording.
+
+.. this should have figure 0106-base_seam.jpg
+
+Making sure that the two layers of fabric are still smooth, sew a
+running stitch over the first line from the bottom you've marked
+earlier.
+
+.. this should have figure 0107-cording_first_thin.jpg
 
-Align the other selvedge to this line, wrong sides together, fold it
-wrong sides together and press.
-You may want to add a few pins to help managing the fabric while moving
-it.
+Cut 5 pieces of 3 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric,
+put one of them above this seam, and sew again with a running stitch as
+close to the cording as possible.
 
-Check that by aligning the single selvedge to your waist the fold falls
-somewhere below the mid-calf: the petticoat will be shortened a bit by
-the cording.
+.. this should have figure 0108-cording_first_thin_done.jpg
 
+Repeat with the other 4 pieces.
 
-....
+.. this should have figure 0109-cording pattern_done.jpg
 
+Repeat on the next two marked lines using just 4 pieces of 3 mm cording
+each, then on the next two lines using 3 pieces each and on the last two
+marked lines with just two pieces of cording each.
 
-Fold down the selvadge by 2 cm, draw lines at 5, 10 and optionally 15 mm
+.. tip:: This is a reasonable cording pattern that gives more rigidity
+   at the bottom than at the top, of course any other cording pattern
+   can be used, especially if seen in period examples.
+
+.. figure:: 0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Hemstitch the selvedge at hips level to the front fabric.
+
+.. figure:: 0111-hemming_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Finish the raw edges on the sides by folding them 1 cm twice towards the
+wrong side and hemstitching them.
+
+.. figure:: 0112-marking_top.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold down the selvedge by 2 cm, draw lines at 5, 10 and optionally 15 mm
 from the fold.
 Starting 20 cm from each side, mark points at every cm.
 
+Also mark the center and the quarter points.
+
+.. figure:: 0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Run a strong thread that is longer than the finished waist on each
 marked line, making sure to enter the fabric right at the marked points.
 
 Cut a piece of 2.5 cm tape that is as long as your waist plus 32 cm, hem
 the ends folding them down by half a cm twice and mark the center.
 Also mark two points that would be quarters if the tape was exactly as
-long as your waist (so 15 cm less than the actual tape on each side.
+long as your waist (so 16 cm less than the actual tape on each side.
+
+.. figure:: 0114-pinned_tape.jpg
+   :align: center
 
 Pin the tape to the top of the petticoat, aligned on the fold, on the
 wrong side, putting it flat on the first 20 cm and then pinning the
-marked point and pulling the gathering thread so that 
-
+marked point and pulling the gathering thread to gather the petticoat
+fabric in the right length.
 
+.. figure:: 0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg
+   :align: center
 
-pleat towards center front and center back
+Flatten each section of the pleats so that they go towards the center
+front or the center back, as appropriate, and whipstitch the petticoat to
+the tape, first on the smooth section and then sewing the pleats in
+place.
 
+.. tip:: Instead of flattening the pleats, you can also sew them as
+   cartridge pleats, catching just the bottom of each fold and sewing
+   over it twice for strength.
 
-[...]
+.. figure:: 0116-sewing_tape.jpg
+   :align: center
 
 Cut two pieces of 1 cm tape, 42 cm long, hem one edge, fold the other
 edge down by 1 cm and put it on the folded down allowance at the top,
 right before the pleating starts, and pointing towards the end of the
 fabric. Hemstitch to the allowance on 3 edges.
 
+.. figure:: 0117-backstitching_tape.jpg
+   :align: center
+
 Then pass the needle to the outside of the fabric, and backstitch
 through both layers of fabric, the narrow tape and the wide tape, to fix
-it in place.
+it securely in place.
+
+.. figure:: 0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg
+   :align: center
 
 Pin down the wide tape, covering the narrow, and hemstitch it to the
 unpleated part of the petticoat, forming a channel.
 
 Repeat on the other side.
 
-Variants
---------
+.. figure:: 0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
 
+Put the two ends of the petticoat right sides together and whipstitch
+the seam closed starting from the hem and stopping after the last row of
+cording.
 
 Gallery
 -------
 
+.. figure:: swish_test.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+   The mandatory swish test, showing the full extended petticoat.
+
 See also
 --------
 
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg
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index 0000000..a9e1f50
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+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg