From a81ebddab9de019358a98d95fab4755fa90426d7 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2025 17:14:32 +0200 Subject: Finished article on corded petticoat --- .../0101-folded_fabric.svg | 129 +++++++++++++++ .../0102-marked_cording.svg | 103 ++++++++++++ .../0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1076581 bytes .../0111-hemming_seam.jpg | Bin 0 -> 1276195 bytes .../0112-marking_top.jpg | Bin 0 -> 805500 bytes .../0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg | Bin 0 -> 873973 bytes .../0114-pinned_tape.jpg | Bin 0 -> 627279 bytes .../0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg | Bin 0 -> 687641 bytes .../0116-sewing_tape.jpg | Bin 0 -> 766830 bytes .../0117-backstitching_tape.jpg | Bin 0 -> 922304 bytes .../0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg | Bin 0 -> 813642 bytes .../0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg | Bin 0 -> 640314 bytes .../corded_petticoat.jpg | Bin 0 -> 879706 bytes .../early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst | 180 ++++++++++++++++++--- .../swish_test.jpg | Bin 0 -> 886942 bytes 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b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/corded_petticoat.jpg differ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst index 61325a6..c1d8801 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst @@ -1,13 +1,45 @@ Early Victorian Corded Petticoat ================================ -.. figure:: petticoat.jpg +.. figure:: corded_petticoat.jpg :align: center .. only:: html .. contents:: +This is one of the basic support layers of the early Victorian era, when +steel cage crinolines had not been invented yet, and skirt volume was +obtained by adding layers of petticoats. + +It was also used in later years as a cheaper substitute by people who +couldn't afford metal structures, and thus is can be useful for +traditional dress or other working class outfits. + +Most of the fabric at the waist is pleated and sewn in place, but about +20 cm are left plain with a drawstring, so that they can be adjusted for +waist fluctuations or when shared between different people. + +While functionally equivalent, it is not an accurate historical +constructions, since it takes advantage of the double width of modern +fabric; a rectangle of the same size can however be pieced from narrower +fabric for more historical accuracy. + +The instructions are for handsewing, but of course the cording and the +side seam can also be sewn by machine; attaching the tape to the top +needs to be done by hand (or to be significantly changed). + +Contrary to other patterns, this is worked flat and only joined in a +tube at the very last stage: I think that for handsewing this makes the +work easier to manage, altough it may make the cording a bit slower if +sewn by machine. + +.. note:: I've made this petticoat quite some time ago and I can't find + the step-by-step pictures of many stages, but I don't have plans to + make another one any time soon, so I've decided to publish the + pattern as is. If in the future I'll have a chance to make another + petticoat I'll be sure to take the missing pictures. + Materials --------- @@ -32,76 +64,182 @@ The pattern for this petticoat is simply a rectangle, about 2-3 m long, using the full width of the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. .. tip:: for many people holding the fabric between their extended arms - would result in a 1.5 m lenght; doubling that gives a good + would result in a 1.5 m length; doubling that gives a good width for the 1840s and early 1850s. You also need to measure from your waist to mid-calf and from your waist to the hips (you can do so with a tape, but also directly with the fabric, see the instructions). +After straightening one edge, but before cutting the rest of the fabric, +measure a point on the straightened edge at about the distance between +waist and hips plus 2 cm hemming allowance from one selvedge, pin the +other selvedge at that point and check the length on your body. + +The fold should end up somewhere below the mid calf: the finished +petticoat will be a bit shorter than that because of the cording. + +If it's too long, you can fold the fabric up a bit more, but if it's too +short by more than a few cm you'll have to piece together a taller +rectangle, possibly cut from the other direction of the fabric. + Instructions ------------ -On one side of the fabric mark a line on the wrong side of the fabric at -the distance between the waist and the hips from one of the selvedges. +.. figure:: 0101-folded_fabric.svg + :align: center + +On the wrong side of the fabric mark a line parallel to one of the +selvedges at the distance you've measured above. + +Align the other selvedge to this line, wrong sides together, fold it and +press. + +.. tip:: You may want to add a few safety pins to help managing the + fabric while moving it. + +If the line you've marked is significantly different from the waist - +hips distance, also mark that line. + +.. figure:: 0102-marked_cording.svg + :align: center + +Divide the distance between the hem fold and the hips in 8, on the wrong +side mark parallel lines at that distance from each other, starting from +the hem fold. + +.. this should have figure 0103-cording_hem.jpg + +Cut 5 pieces of 5 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put it in the fold at the hem of the petticoat leaving 2 cm free on each +side, pinning it in place with safety pins, and sew a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible to keep it in place. + +.. this should have figure 0104-cording_hem_second_row.jpg + +Put a second piece of cording between the two layers of fabric above the +seam, pin it with safety pins and sew a running stitch above it as +before. + +.. maybe 0105-thick_cording_done.jpg + +Repeat with the 3 other pieces of 5 mm cording. + +.. this should have figure 0106-base_seam.jpg + +Making sure that the two layers of fabric are still smooth, sew a +running stitch over the first line from the bottom you've marked +earlier. + +.. this should have figure 0107-cording_first_thin.jpg -Align the other selvedge to this line, wrong sides together, fold it -wrong sides together and press. -You may want to add a few pins to help managing the fabric while moving -it. +Cut 5 pieces of 3 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put one of them above this seam, and sew again with a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible. -Check that by aligning the single selvedge to your waist the fold falls -somewhere below the mid-calf: the petticoat will be shortened a bit by -the cording. +.. this should have figure 0108-cording_first_thin_done.jpg +Repeat with the other 4 pieces. -.... +.. this should have figure 0109-cording pattern_done.jpg +Repeat on the next two marked lines using just 4 pieces of 3 mm cording +each, then on the next two lines using 3 pieces each and on the last two +marked lines with just two pieces of cording each. -Fold down the selvadge by 2 cm, draw lines at 5, 10 and optionally 15 mm +.. tip:: This is a reasonable cording pattern that gives more rigidity + at the bottom than at the top, of course any other cording pattern + can be used, especially if seen in period examples. + +.. figure:: 0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg + :align: center + +Hemstitch the selvedge at hips level to the front fabric. + +.. figure:: 0111-hemming_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Finish the raw edges on the sides by folding them 1 cm twice towards the +wrong side and hemstitching them. + +.. figure:: 0112-marking_top.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the selvedge by 2 cm, draw lines at 5, 10 and optionally 15 mm from the fold. Starting 20 cm from each side, mark points at every cm. +Also mark the center and the quarter points. + +.. figure:: 0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg + :align: center + Run a strong thread that is longer than the finished waist on each marked line, making sure to enter the fabric right at the marked points. Cut a piece of 2.5 cm tape that is as long as your waist plus 32 cm, hem the ends folding them down by half a cm twice and mark the center. Also mark two points that would be quarters if the tape was exactly as -long as your waist (so 15 cm less than the actual tape on each side. +long as your waist (so 16 cm less than the actual tape on each side. + +.. figure:: 0114-pinned_tape.jpg + :align: center Pin the tape to the top of the petticoat, aligned on the fold, on the wrong side, putting it flat on the first 20 cm and then pinning the -marked point and pulling the gathering thread so that - +marked point and pulling the gathering thread to gather the petticoat +fabric in the right length. +.. figure:: 0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center -pleat towards center front and center back +Flatten each section of the pleats so that they go towards the center +front or the center back, as appropriate, and whipstitch the petticoat to +the tape, first on the smooth section and then sewing the pleats in +place. +.. tip:: Instead of flattening the pleats, you can also sew them as + cartridge pleats, catching just the bottom of each fold and sewing + over it twice for strength. -[...] +.. figure:: 0116-sewing_tape.jpg + :align: center Cut two pieces of 1 cm tape, 42 cm long, hem one edge, fold the other edge down by 1 cm and put it on the folded down allowance at the top, right before the pleating starts, and pointing towards the end of the fabric. Hemstitch to the allowance on 3 edges. +.. figure:: 0117-backstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + Then pass the needle to the outside of the fabric, and backstitch through both layers of fabric, the narrow tape and the wide tape, to fix -it in place. +it securely in place. + +.. figure:: 0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center Pin down the wide tape, covering the narrow, and hemstitch it to the unpleated part of the petticoat, forming a channel. Repeat on the other side. -Variants --------- +.. figure:: 0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center +Put the two ends of the petticoat right sides together and whipstitch +the seam closed starting from the hem and stopping after the last row of +cording. Gallery ------- +.. figure:: swish_test.jpg + :align: center + + The mandatory swish test, showing the full extended petticoat. + See also -------- diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a9e1f50 Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg differ -- cgit v1.2.3