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authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2022-06-12 21:11:43 +0200
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2022-06-12 21:11:43 +0200
commit8a31a338e7b9eead3b8699f730e9a76bf9e0e7b6 (patch)
treedc613500526992333109c832903e95244ef28682
parent84da510dab78faf3c5f01d367b6ce811bf900381 (diff)
Pictures for the shirt
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0101-marking_armholes.jpgbin0 -> 1397851 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0102-cutting_tongue.jpg (renamed from source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/01-cutting_tongue.jpg)bin1027251 -> 1027251 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/02-sewn_collar.jpgbin489134 -> 0 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0201-sew_collar.jpgbin0 -> 37799 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0202-pressed_collar.jpgbin0 -> 394042 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0203-sew_cuffs.jpgbin0 -> 1070171 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0204-press_cuffs.jpgbin0 -> 1107220 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0205-tongue.jpgbin0 -> 330790 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/03-pressing_seams_collar.jpgbin625588 -> 0 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0301-folded_pleats.jpgbin0 -> 1279538 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0302-sewn_pleats.jpgbin0 -> 1336061 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0303-sewn_plackets.jpgbin0 -> 1226894 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0304-tongue_and_bands.jpgbin0 -> 692665 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0305-placket_and_gathers.jpgbin0 -> 1607193 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0306-front_band_applique.jpgbin0 -> 1537089 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0307-front_band_gathers.jpgbin0 -> 1471871 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst52
17 files changed, 45 insertions, 7 deletions
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diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
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--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
@@ -207,6 +207,9 @@ Cutting
Cut the full rectangles for the front and back.
+.. figure:: 0101-marking_armholes.jpg
+ :align: center
+
If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper
pattern for the armscyes <1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:>`, mark the seam
lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double
@@ -239,7 +242,7 @@ side, you probably need to cut gussets from the wrist side of both sides
of the sleeves and sew them to the shoulder sides, as in the above
schematic.
-.. figure:: 01-cutting_tongue.jpg
+.. figure:: 0102-cutting_tongue.jpg
:align: center
The tongue can be cut from one of the small scraps that remain when
@@ -258,13 +261,13 @@ reinforcement patches.
Collar and Cuffs
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
-.. figure:: 02-sewn_collar.jpg
+.. figure:: 0201-sew_collar.jpg
:align: center
Put the collar band pieces right sides together, backstitch the sides
and top, leaving the bottom free to attach it to the shirt.
-.. figure:: 03-pressing_seams_collar.jpg
+.. figure:: 0202-pressed_collar.jpg
:align: center
Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press.
@@ -275,12 +278,21 @@ Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press.
construction instructions, and you will probably need to add one or
two layers of interfacing.
+.. figure:: 0203-sew_cuffs.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Put two cuff pieces right sides together with the interfacing on top,
backstitch the sides and front (the shorter base of the trapezium),
leaving the other base free to attach it to the sleeve.
+.. figure:: 0204-press_cuffs.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press.
+.. figure:: 0205-tongue.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Prepare also the tongue for the front: with right sides facing
backstitch all around the tongue except for the top, press, trim the
corners and clip the curves, turn inside out and press again.
@@ -291,6 +303,9 @@ Front
Cut the vertical and horizontal lines of the slit in the front.
+.. figure:: 0301-folded_pleats.jpg
+ :align: center
+
On both sides, fold the width of the button placket (e.g. 2.5 cm) twice
towards the front.
@@ -312,10 +327,17 @@ pleats a tiny bit to hide their seams.
Press everything.
+.. figure:: 0302-sewn_pleats.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Backstitch the pleats by following the crease line.
+
+.. figure:: 0303-sewn_plackets.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Hemstitch the *right* placket over the seam of the first pleat, hidden
-below the placket itself.
+below the placket itself. Press back the placket flat.
On just the *left* placket sew two neat lines of backstitches, 4 mm from
each edge.
@@ -323,14 +345,30 @@ each edge.
Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the bottom
horizontal edge of the slit for the gathers.
+.. figure:: 0304-tongue_and_bands.jpg
+ :align: center
+
Put the tongue at the center bottom of one of the two bands, right sides
together, and backstitch it.
Press all the sewing allowances of the front bands towards the wrong side.
-Pin the band with the tongue on top of the front so that it covers the
-slit, applique stitch it on the sides and top edge and hem stitch the
-bottom edge over the gathers, catching each gather in a stitch and
+.. figure:: 0305-placket_and_gathers.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Put the left placket on top of the right placket and baste it in place.
+Pull the gathering threads to the same length, pinning the excess thread
+from the wrong side, strike the gathers to make them neater.
+
+.. figure:: 0306-front_band_applique.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0307-front_band_gathers.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+Pin the band with the tongue on top of the right side so that it covers
+the slit, applique stitch it on the sides and top edge and hem stitch
+the bottom edge over the gathers, catching each gather in a stitch and
sewing to the underside of the tongue when you reach it.
Pin the other band to the wrong side of the front and hem stitch it to