Shirt improvements

2 files changed, 29 insertions, 21 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
index d66589b..02b3302 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val
@@ -35,7 +35,7 @@ treasury…</company>
         <increment formula="4" name="#armhole_width_back"/>
         <increment formula="3" name="#armhole_width_front"/>
         <increment formula="9" name="#cuff_length"/>
-        <increment formula="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent - #cuff_length / 2" name="#sleeve_length"/>
+        <increment formula="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent - #cuff_length / 2 + 1" name="#sleeve_length"/>
         <increment description="If using fabric for this is narrower than 45 cm, check that it is enough for your arms." formula="#shirt_width / 2" name="#sleeve_width"/>
         <increment formula="30" name="#sleeve_wrist_circumference"/>
         <increment formula="6" name="#sleeve_slit"/>
@@ -95,7 +95,7 @@ treasury…</company>
             <point angle="90" basePoint="77" id="78" length="neck_circ * 0.33" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="260" angle2="180" color="black" id="79" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="78" point4="76" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <arc aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="270" center="78" color="cornflowerblue" id="80" penStyle="hair" radius="shoulder_length" type="simple"/>
-            <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="99" length="#sleeve_length + 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A25" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="99" length="#sleeve_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A25" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point angle="180" basePoint="1" id="100" length="#sleeve_width" lineColor="black" mx="-3.34636" my="-2.01042" name="A26" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="100" id="101" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A27" secondPoint="99" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
             <point firstPoint="1" id="102" length="(#sleeve_width - #sleeve_wrist_circumference) / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-3.10226" my="-2.05174" name="A28" secondPoint="100" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
index da03f2c..21785f9 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
@@ -37,6 +37,9 @@ instructions say to hemstitch or applique stitch something; for
 historical accuracy buttonholes should still be done by hand, however,
 unless that's not a concern.
 
+The pictures in this page are of a shirt where the backstitching is done
+by machine, and everything else by hand.
+
 Materials
 ---------
 
@@ -82,8 +85,9 @@ You need to take the following measurements:
 ``arm_wrist_circ`` (L15)
    ;
 
-the file :download:`shirt.vit` is used by default by the pattern file
-and has the list of needed measurements.
+refer to the diagram in Valentina Tape for how to take them, and the
+file :download:`shirt.vit` is used by default by the pattern file and
+has the list of needed measurements.
 
 Pattern
 ^^^^^^^
@@ -116,15 +120,16 @@ nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible:
    least 15 cm wide for a 2.5 cm button placket and the rest will be
    pleated;
 ``front_gathers_width``
-   the final width to which the material in the front slit is gathered:
-   at least the width of the button placket;
+   the final width to which the material in the front slit is pleated /
+   gathered: at least the width of the button placket;
 ``front_band_height``
    the band that covers the pleats and gathers in the front: 4 cm, or to
    taste;
 ``yoke_depth``
-   from the nape of the neck to where the yoke ends, to taste;
+   from the nape of the neck to where the yoke ends in the back, to taste;
 ``cuff_length``
-   length of the cuff: 9 cm or to taste;
+   length of the cuff: 9 cm or to taste, or 2 cm for a cuff band used
+   with detached cuffs;
 ``sleeve_length``
    length of the sleeve: ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` minus half
    the cuff, or to taste according to how puffed you want the sleeve to
@@ -136,7 +141,7 @@ nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible:
    the desired circumference of the sleeve at the wrist, before
    gathering it into the cuff;
 ``sleeve_slit``
-   the length of the slit at the sleeve: 6 cm or to taste;
+   the length of the slit at the wrist: 6 cm or to taste;
 ``collar_band_height``
    the height of the collar band, to be used with a detachable collar: 2
    cm is usually fine;
@@ -188,7 +193,7 @@ it so that it lies nicely, the neck curve follows the base of the neck
 and arrives almost, but not quite, to the neck base in front, leaving
 the space for the button placket.
 
-You may also want to make a fabric mockup for these checks, and then
+You probably need to make a fabric mockup for these checks, and then
 bring the changes back to the pattern to cut the final pieces.
 
 Cutting
@@ -276,6 +281,11 @@ leaving the other base free to attach it to the sleeve.
 
 Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press.
 
+Prepare also the tongue for the front: with right sides facing
+backstitch all around the tongue except for the top, press, trim the
+corners and clip the curves, turn inside out and press again.
+Make a buttonhole in the tongue.
+
 Front
 ^^^^^
 
@@ -304,7 +314,8 @@ Press everything.
 
 Backstitch the pleats by following the crease line.
 
-Applique stitch the plackets over the seam of the first pleat.
+Hemstitch the *right* placket over the seam of the first pleat, hidden
+below the placket itself.
 
 On just the *left* placket sew two neat lines of backstitches, 4 mm from
 each edge.
@@ -312,18 +323,15 @@ each edge.
 Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the bottom
 horizontal edge of the slit for the gathers.
 
-With right sides facing backstitch all around the tongue except for the
-top, press, trim the corners and clip the curves, turn inside out and
-press again.
-
-Press the sewing allowances of the front bands towards the wrong side.
+Put the tongue at the center bottom of one of the two bands, right sides
+together, and backstitch it.
 
-Sew the tongue to the center bottom of one of the bands
+Press all the sewing allowances of the front bands towards the wrong side.
 
-Pin that band on top of the front so that it covers the slit, applique
-stitch it on the sides and top edge and hem stitch the bottom edge over
-the gathers, catching each gather in a stitch and sewing to the
-underside of the tongue when you reach it.
+Pin the band with the tongue on top of the front so that it covers the
+slit, applique stitch it on the sides and top edge and hem stitch the
+bottom edge over the gathers, catching each gather in a stitch and
+sewing to the underside of the tongue when you reach it.
 
 Pin the other band to the wrong side of the front and hem stitch it to
 the shirt on all four sides, again catching each gather in a stitch, so