New pattern for a peasant bodiceHEADmaster

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diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib
index b9f8001..74a63ef 100644
--- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib
+++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib
@@ -75,3 +75,11 @@
     year = {1905},
     url = "https://archive.org/details/dressmakinguptod00butt",
 }
+
+@Book{2018:friendship
+    author = {Elizabeth Friendship},
+    title = {Making Working Women's Costume},
+    publisher = {Crowood Press },
+    year = {2018},
+    url = "https://openlibrary.org/books/OL27803094M/",
+}
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/index.rst
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@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+*********
+ Bodices
+*********
+
+.. toctree::
+   :maxdepth: 2
+   :caption: Contents:
+
+   peasant_bodice/index
+
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0101-back_dart.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0201-dart_fabric.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0201-dart_fabric.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0202-pressed_edges.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0202-pressed_edges.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0203-first_cord.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0203-first_cord.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0204-sewing_first_cord.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0204-sewing_first_cord.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0205-sewing_second_cord.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0205-sewing_second_cord.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0301-pressed_back_pieces.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0301-pressed_back_pieces.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0302-hemstitching_lining_to_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0302-hemstitching_lining_to_back.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0303-hemstitching_lining_to_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0303-hemstitching_lining_to_front.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0401-marked_eyelets_left.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0401-marked_eyelets_left.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0403-sewing_eyelets.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0403-sewing_eyelets.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst
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+Peasant Bodice
+==============
+
+.. figure:: peasant_bodice.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+This is a bodice inspired by peasant and folk-wear of the 19th century;
+since sources for such clothing aren't as easily available as those for
+more urban ones, I have striven to reproduce the general look, as seen
+in artwork and some limited pictures of few folk-wear garments from
+various parts of Europe.
+
+I consulted :cite:`2018:friendship`, which suggests a shape based mostly
+on straight lines (other than the armscye), but for ease of getting a
+parametric pattern I decided to go for a slightly more fitted design,
+starting from the vest pattern in :cite:`1892:cutters`, changing it to
+have just one dart and of course a different neckline.
+
+This of course means that this pattern is not in any way accurate to
+reproduce an actual historical garment, except possibly one made as
+costume by a middle class person of the later Victorian age.
+
+For the construction, I was inspired by the methods used e.g. in 18th
+century stays, with fully finished panels whipstitched together with
+strong thread. This method produces a pretty strong garment, but needs
+to be done completely by hand. As a simple garment it's not a very long
+project, but of course assembling everything by machine using a modern
+assembly method is also perfectly feasible.
+
+The front is reinforced with two lines of cording at the center front,
+near the lacing eyelets; plastic whalebone boning could also be used, or
+additional cording for more support.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* Less than 1 m main fabric;
+* less than 1 m lining fabric.
+
+The combination of main and lining fabric should be dimensionally stable
+enough to make this a somewhat supportive garment.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* buttonhole thread to match (or complement) the fabric;
+* ~2m cord 2-3 mm thick or yarn suitable for cording;
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index`.
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+You need to take the measurements for :ref:`cutters_jackets`;
+the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is used
+by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`peasant_bodice.val`.
+
+You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the
+table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible.
+
+``vest_length_in_front``
+   vertical distance from the waist down to the point of the vest, for
+   the pointed variant;
+``bust_to_neckline_front``
+   vertical distance from the bust line up to the neckline in the front:
+   if this is too high there will be fit issues, as the pattern goes
+   somewhat straight up rather than sloping towards the neck;
+``nape_to_neckline_back``
+   vertical distance from the nape of the neck down towards the
+   neckline;
+``shoulder_strap_width``
+   width of the shoulder strap at the top: this should be narrow enough
+   to give a nice shape to the deep neckline;
+``length_darts_waist_down``
+   this controls how spread out the dart should be down from the waist
+   line: 20 - 25 cm is a good value;
+``distance_dart_center_front``
+   horizontal distance from the center front to the dart: 6 cm is a good
+   value;
+``ease``
+   ease to add to the bust and waist measurements, it should be only
+   just enough to account for the bulk of the chemise or other
+   underwear;
+``sewing_allowance``
+   e.g. 1 cm, as it only needs to be folded down: the allowance at the
+   side seam is already double this amount to allow for alterations;
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Cut two fronts and two backs from the fabric.
+
+Also cut two backs from the lining fabric, and two fronts, with no
+sewing allowance on the center front edge.
+
+.. tip:: 
+
+   .. figure:: 0101-back_dart.jpg
+      :align: center
+
+   instead of cutting two backs, you may put the pattern in such a
+   way that the back lies on a fold, parallel to the grainline, and sew
+   the excess fabric in a big dart, pressing it open.
+
+   .. figure:: 0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg
+      :align: center
+
+
+Note that the seaming allowance is 1 cm on all sides except for the
+center front, where it is needed for the cording and the eyelets, and for
+the side seam, where a bigger sewing allowance can be used to let the
+seam out if needed in the future.
+
+Fronts
+^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0201-dart_fabric.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sew the darts with a running backstitch on both the fabric and the
+lining, press the ones on the fabric towards the side, and the ones on
+the lining towards the center front to reduce bulk.
+
+.. figure:: 0202-pressed_edges.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press all edges of the fabric pieces towards the wrong side by the
+corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners and clipping /
+notching the curves.
+
+.. figure:: 0203-first_cord.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Cut a length of cord as long as the front fold, put it inside the fold;
+
+.. figure:: 0204-sewing_first_cord.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+sew a running stitch from the front to keep the cording into place.
+
+.. tip:: you may want to use buttonhole thread for this step, for a more
+   decorative seam.
+
+.. figure:: 0205-sewing_second_cord.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Repeat with a second length of cord.
+
+Lining
+^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0301-pressed_back_pieces.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+If you haven't already, press all edges of the back pieces towards the
+wrong side by the corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners.
+
+Press all edges of the lining towards the wrong side by 2-3 mm more than
+the sewing allowance, mitering the corners.
+
+.. figure:: 0302-hemstitching_lining_to_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0303-hemstitching_lining_to_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Pin the lining on top of the corresponding fabric piece, wrong sides
+together and sew it with a hemstitch, catching just the sewing allowance
+of the fabric piece.
+
+Eyelets
+^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0401-marked_eyelets_left.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Mark the eyelets on the center front, half a cm from the last cording
+seam; on the left panel start about 1 cm from the top and mark eyelets
+every 2 cm, ending 1-2 cm from the bottom with two eyelets at just 1 cm
+from each other.
+
+On the right panel do the same, but start at the same level of the left
+panel, mark a second eyelet at 1 cm distance, and continue down every 2
+cm.
+
+Also mark the eyelets on the armscyes, where marked on the pattern, at 1
+cm from the fabric edge.
+
+.. figure:: 0403-sewing_eyelets.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Use an awl to open the eyelets without breaking the fabric threads, and
+sew all around them with waxed buttonhole thread.
+
+Assembly
+^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0501-sewing_back_front.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, put a back over a front and sew the side seam with
+whipstitches, using a well waxed doubled (or even quadrupled) thread.
+
+.. figure:: 0502-sewing_shoulder_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sew the shoulder seam in the same way.
+
+Repeat with the other half of the bodice.
+
+.. figure:: 0503-sewing_two_halves.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+And finally, put the two back right sides together, and whipstitch the
+center back seam, again with a well waxed doubled or quadrupled thread.
+
+..
+
+   Gallery
+   -------
+
+See Also
+--------
+
+* https://www.sewhistorically.com/how-to-sew-a-historical-peasant-bodice/
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.jpg
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6a6580e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val
@@ -0,0 +1,303 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern labelPrefix="en">
+    <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.9.1</version>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <description/>
+    <notes/>
+    <patternName>Peasant Bodice</patternName>
+    <patternNumber/>
+    <company/>
+    <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+        <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+    </patternLabel>
+    <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit"/>
+    <increments>
+        <increment description="from waist to the lower point at the center front" formula="5" name="#vest_length_in_front"/>
+        <increment description="vertical distance between the bust line and the neckline" formula="2" name="#bust_to_neckline_front"/>
+        <increment description="vertical distance from the nape of the neck to the neckline in the back" formula="3" name="#nape_to_neckline_back"/>
+        <increment formula="7" name="#shoulder_strap_width"/>
+        <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/>
+        <increment formula="6" name="#distance_dart_center_front"/>
+        <increment formula="4" name="#ease"/>
+        <increment formula="1" name="#sewing_allowance"/>
+    </increments>
+    <previewCalculations/>
+    <draw name="pattern">
+        <calculation>
+            <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_highbust_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8q" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="neck_back_to_waist_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15h" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="3" id="4" length="5" lineColor="black" mx="-2.29549" my="0.0665426" name="A2" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="1" id="5" length="neck_circ / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2h" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="5" id="6" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Aqqq" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="2" id="7" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" p1Line="4" p2Line="1" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="30" angle2="50" center="7" color="violet" id="8" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_bust_front / 2" type="simple"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="-50" angle2="-50" center="6" color="violet" id="9" penStyle="hair" radius="armfold_to_armfold_bust / 4 + 1.25" type="simple"/>
+            <point crossPoint="1" firstArc="8" id="10" mx="-0.0270999" my="-2.42273" name="AOS" secondArc="9" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="7" id="11" length="bust_circ / 4 + #ease / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" name="AO" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="12" length="waist_circ / 4 + #ease / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.760082" my="-0.428956" name="A9q" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="180 + 30" color="black" id="22" length1="3" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="6" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="11" id="23" mx="0.178945" my="0.396875" name="A8" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="23" id="24" length="-2.5" lineColor="black" mx="-2.73751" my="-1.92011" name="A1w" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="11" id="25" length="- (bust_circ / 4 + #ease / 4)" lineColor="black" mx="0.17419" my="0.396875" name="A9qqq" secondPoint="7" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="25" id="26" length="across_chest_f / 2 - 1.25" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2q" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="45" angle2="90" center="26" color="cornflowerblue" id="27" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_armfold_front - Spl_A_Aqqq" type="simple"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="135" center="25" color="cornflowerblue" id="28" penStyle="hair" radius="RadiusArc_A2q_27 + 2" type="simple"/>
+            <point crossPoint="1" firstArc="27" id="29" mx="-1.36255" my="-2.001" name="AF" secondArc="28" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="26" id="30" length="3.8" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Afinger" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="120" center="30" color="cornflowerblue" id="31" penStyle="hair" radius="highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_front - RadiusArc_A1_8 - Line_A2q_Afinger" type="simple"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="160" angle2="200" center="29" color="cornflowerblue" id="32" penStyle="hair" radius="armfold_to_armfold_bust / 4 + 0.6" type="simple"/>
+            <point crossPoint="1" firstArc="31" id="33" mx="-2.39021" my="-1.40153" name="AD" secondArc="32" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/>
+            <line firstPoint="33" id="35" lineColor="black" secondPoint="29" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="29" id="37" length="neck_circ / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="AV" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point id="38" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Aeee" p1Line1="37" p1Line2="3" p2Line1="25" p2Line2="24" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="260" angle2="300" center="29" color="cornflowerblue" id="44" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_bust_front - Spl_A_Aqqq" type="simple"/>
+            <point firstPoint="38" id="56" length="- #vest_length_in_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <line firstPoint="6" id="63" lineColor="black" secondPoint="10" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_Aqqq_AOS - 90 + 30" angle2="180" color="black" id="64" length1="5" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="10" point4="11" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_AD_AF - 80" angle2="AngleLine_AV_Aeee - 180" color="black" id="86" length1="10" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="29" point4="25" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="6" id="122" mx="0.864136" my="-1.90141" name="A9" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="29" id="123" mx="-3.03296" my="-2.80074" name="A26" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst
index 3cd3947..8f8ebe7 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst
@@ -11,6 +11,7 @@ considered womenswear.
    :caption: Contents:
 
    skirts/index
+   bodices/index
    underwear/index
    accessories/index
    drafting_methods/index