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-rw-r--r--american_system_shirtwaist.val42
1 files changed, 38 insertions, 4 deletions
diff --git a/american_system_shirtwaist.val b/american_system_shirtwaist.val
index 633a5d7..0cc2f9a 100644
--- a/american_system_shirtwaist.val
+++ b/american_system_shirtwaist.val
@@ -19,6 +19,9 @@
<increment description="Distance between waist and hem of the shirtwaist. Usually 10-12.5 cm" formula="12" name="#waist_to_hem"/>
<increment description="Distance from the original center front to the center front line at the waist. Between 2.5 and 7.5 cm depending on bust size" formula="6" name="#front_distance_waist"/>
<increment description="Distance between center front and neck. Formula is valid for neck circ between 25 and 37 cm." formula="5 + (neck_mid_circ - 25) / 4" name="#neck_hor_width"/>
+ <increment description="" formula="neck_back_to_armfold_front_to_waist_side - arm_elbow_to_wrist_bent - 2" name="#short_sleeve_length"/>
+ <increment description="" formula="2" name="#placket_width"/>
+ <increment description="" formula="6" name="#cuff_height"/>
</increments>
<draw name="front">
<calculation>
@@ -74,6 +77,8 @@
<point firstPoint="188" id="197" length="- #waist_to_hem" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A16" secondPoint="3" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
<point firstPoint="10" id="198" length="#waist_to_hem" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A17" secondPoint="12" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
<point id="280" length="2.5" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A18" splinePath="37" type="cutSplinePath"/>
+ <point angle="AngleLine_A15_A16 - 90" basePoint="3" id="283" length="#placket_width * 1.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A19" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point angle="AngleLine_A15_A16 - 90" basePoint="197" id="284" length="Line_An_A19" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A20" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
</calculation>
<modeling>
<point id="201" idObject="3" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
@@ -87,7 +92,7 @@
<point id="209" idObject="10" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
<point id="210" idObject="198" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
<point id="211" idObject="197" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="212" idObject="188" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="212" idObject="188" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
<point id="224" idObject="3" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
<point id="225" idObject="188" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
<point id="226" idObject="35" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
@@ -107,6 +112,8 @@
<spline id="260" idObject="37" inUse="true" type="modelingPath"/>
<point id="281" idObject="280" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
<spline id="282" idObject="37" inUse="true" type="modelingPath"/>
+ <point id="285" idObject="284" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="286" idObject="283" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
</modeling>
<details>
<detail closed="1" forbidFlipping="false" id="213" inLayout="true" mx="0.103" my="0.227496" name="front" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="2">
@@ -116,7 +123,7 @@
<patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="140.145" my="448.279" rotation="AngleLine_A16_An - 90" visible="true" width="5"/>
<grainline arrows="2" bottomPin="225" length="40" mx="0" my="0" rotation="AngleLine_A16_An" topPin="224" visible="true"/>
<nodes>
- <node after="1" before="5" idObject="201" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node after="1" before="1" idObject="201" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="202" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
<node angle="1" before="1" idObject="203" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="204" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -132,8 +139,9 @@
<node idObject="208" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="209" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="210" type="NodePoint"/>
- <node after="5" angle="1" idObject="211" type="NodePoint"/>
- <node after="5" before="5" idObject="212" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node angle="1" idObject="211" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="285" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node after="1" idObject="286" type="NodePoint"/>
</nodes>
<iPaths>
<record path="256"/>
@@ -290,6 +298,12 @@
<point angle="270" basePoint="268" curve="143" id="269" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C6" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
<point id="274" length="SplPath_Ck1_Ck_Seg_1+ SplPath_As_A14_Seg_3 + SplPath_B5_Br" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C7" splinePath="143" type="cutSplinePath"/>
<point id="277" length="SplPath_Ck1_Ck + SplPath_Ck1_Ck_Seg_1 - SplPath_As_A14_Seg_2" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C8" splinePath="143" type="cutSplinePath"/>
+ <point firstPoint="131" id="287" length="#short_sleeve_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C9" secondPoint="133" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point angle="180" basePoint="287" id="288" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C10" p1Line="141" p2Line="142" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point angle="0" basePoint="287" id="289" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C11" p1Line="136" p2Line="134" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point firstPoint="132" id="293" length="#cuff_height" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C12" secondPoint="131" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+ <point angle="180" basePoint="293" id="294" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C13" p1Line="141" p2Line="142" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
+ <point angle="0" basePoint="293" id="295" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="C14" p1Line="134" p2Line="136" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
</calculation>
<modeling>
<point id="178" idObject="142" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
@@ -307,6 +321,22 @@
<spline id="276" idObject="143" inUse="true" type="modelingPath"/>
<point id="278" idObject="277" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
<spline id="279" idObject="143" inUse="true" type="modelingPath"/>
+ <point id="290" idObject="288" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="291" idObject="289" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+ <path id="292" name="short_sleeve" type="2" typeLine="dashLine">
+ <nodes>
+ <node idObject="290" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="291" type="NodePoint"/>
+ </nodes>
+ </path>
+ <point id="296" idObject="294" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="297" idObject="295" inUse="true" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" type="modeling"/>
+ <path id="298" name="cuff_length" type="2" typeLine="dashLine">
+ <nodes>
+ <node idObject="296" type="NodePoint"/>
+ <node idObject="297" type="NodePoint"/>
+ </nodes>
+ </path>
</modeling>
<details>
<detail closed="1" forbidFlipping="false" id="187" inLayout="true" mx="0" my="0.0729353" name="shirtwaist_sleeve" seamAllowance="true" united="false" version="2" width="2">
@@ -330,6 +360,10 @@
<node idObject="185" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="186" type="NodePoint"/>
</nodes>
+ <iPaths>
+ <record path="292"/>
+ <record path="298"/>
+ </iPaths>
<pins>
<record>229</record>
<record>233</record>