Shirtwaist basic pattern from the american system

1 files changed, 280 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/american_system_shirtwaist.val b/american_system_shirtwaist.val
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+++ b/american_system_shirtwaist.val
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+<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?>
+<pattern>
+    <!--Pattern created with Valentina (http://www.valentina-project.org/).-->
+    <version>0.2.4</version>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <author/>
+    <description/>
+    <notes/>
+    <measurements>../measurements/EoV_americansystem.vit</measurements>
+    <increments>
+        <increment name="#center_back_at_waist" description="Width of the center back at the waist. Usually 3.75 cm, up to 5 cm for big waists." formula="5"/>
+        <increment name="#waist_to_hem" description="Distance between waist and hem of the shirtwaist. Usually 10-12.5 cm" formula="10"/>
+        <increment name="#front_distance_waist" description="Distance from the original center front to the center front line at the waist. Between 2.5 and 7.5 cm depending on bust size" formula="6"/>
+        <increment name="#neck_hor_width" description="Distance between center front and neck. Formula is valid for neck circ between 25 and 37 cm." formula="5 + (neck_mid_circ - 25) / 4"/>
+    </increments>
+    <draw name="front">
+        <calculation>
+            <point type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833" id="1" name="A" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="2" name="Aa" basePoint="1" mx="0.100508" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="270" length="5"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="3" name="An" basePoint="1" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="270" length="neck_mid_circ / 4"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="4" name="Am" basePoint="1" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="0" length="#neck_hor_width"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="5" name="A1" basePoint="4" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="0" length="shoulder_length"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="6" name="As" basePoint="5" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="270" length="shoulder_slope_neck_side_length"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="7" name="Ab" basePoint="2" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="270" length="armscye_circ / 2"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="8" name="Ac" basePoint="7" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="0" length="bust_circ / 4"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="9" name="Ad" basePoint="8" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="0" length="2.5"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="10" name="Ae" basePoint="9" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="270" length="armpit_to_waist_side"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="11" name="A2" basePoint="10" mx="0.0473595" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="270" length="6.25"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="12" name="A3" basePoint="11" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="0" length="2.5"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="13" name="Af" basePoint="7" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="270" length="10.625"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="14" name="Ag" firstPoint="9" secondPoint="10" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="5.625"/>
+            <line typeLine="hair" id="15" firstPoint="13" secondPoint="14" lineColor="black"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="16" name="A4" basePoint="4" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="270" length="neck_back_to_armfold_front_to_waist_side - neck_arc_half_b"/>
+            <point type="lineIntersect" id="17" name="A5" p2Line1="16" p2Line2="13" p1Line1="10" p1Line2="7" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <point type="lineIntersect" id="18" name="A6" p2Line1="14" p2Line2="4" p1Line1="13" p1Line2="16" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="19" name="Ah" firstPoint="18" secondPoint="14" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="6.25 + 0.125"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="20" name="A7" firstPoint="16" secondPoint="17" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="1.875"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="21" name="A8" firstPoint="16" secondPoint="10" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="Line_A4_A7"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="22" name="A9" firstPoint="21" secondPoint="10" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.485019" length="1.875 + 0.125"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="23" name="A10" firstPoint="22" secondPoint="10" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="(bust_circ - waist_circ ) / 4 - 0.25"/>
+            <spline type="simple" point4="18" kAsm1="1.09106" kAsm2="0.886539" angle1="90.601" angle2="255.565" id="24" kCurve="1" color="black" point1="20"/>
+            <spline type="simple" point4="21" kAsm1="0.924103" kAsm2="0.924937" angle1="283.664" angle2="92.0857" id="25" kCurve="1" color="black" point1="18"/>
+            <spline type="simple" point4="19" kAsm1="0.999384" kAsm2="0.998601" angle1="83.9182" angle2="256.133" id="26" kCurve="1" color="black" point1="22"/>
+            <spline type="simple" point4="23" kAsm1="0.972371" kAsm2="1.00123" angle1="284.599" angle2="98.3827" id="27" kCurve="1" color="black" point1="19"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="28" name="A11" firstPoint="22" secondPoint="23" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="Line_A9_A10 / 2"/>
+            <line typeLine="hair" id="29" firstPoint="18" secondPoint="16" lineColor="black"/>
+            <line typeLine="hair" id="30" firstPoint="19" secondPoint="28" lineColor="black"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="31" name="A12" firstPoint="18" secondPoint="16" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="Line_A6_A4 * 2"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="32" name="A13" firstPoint="19" secondPoint="28" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="Line_Ah_A11 * 2"/>
+            <line typeLine="hair" id="33" firstPoint="3" secondPoint="7" lineColor="black"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="34" name="Ai" firstPoint="3" secondPoint="7" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="Line_An_Ab / 2"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="35" name="Aj" basePoint="34" mx="0.222976" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="0" length="across_chest_f / 2"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="36" name="A14" basePoint="9" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="90" length="0.625"/>
+            <spline type="path" id="37" kCurve="1" color="black">
+                <pathPoint kAsm1="1" kAsm2="0.818997" pSpline="6" angle="244.286"/>
+                <pathPoint kAsm1="1.01416" kAsm2="0.972823" pSpline="35" angle="272.81"/>
+                <pathPoint kAsm1="0.938432" kAsm2="1" pSpline="8" angle="359.066"/>
+                <pathPoint kAsm1="1" kAsm2="1" pSpline="36" angle="24.2431"/>
+            </spline>
+            <spline type="simple" point4="4" kAsm1="0.800174" kAsm2="1.04119" angle1="3.58686" angle2="271.299" id="38" kCurve="1" color="black" point1="3"/>
+            <spline type="simple" point4="3" kAsm1="0.997985" kAsm2="1.00531" angle1="96.4091" angle2="264.111" id="61" kCurve="1" color="black" point1="17"/>
+            <line typeLine="hair" id="94" firstPoint="4" secondPoint="6" lineColor="black"/>
+            <line typeLine="hair" id="101" firstPoint="17" secondPoint="20" lineColor="black"/>
+            <line typeLine="hair" id="102" firstPoint="21" secondPoint="22" lineColor="black"/>
+            <line typeLine="hair" id="103" firstPoint="23" secondPoint="10" lineColor="black"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="188" name="A15" firstPoint="17" secondPoint="10" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="- #front_distance_waist"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="197" name="A16" firstPoint="188" secondPoint="3" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="- #waist_to_hem"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="198" name="A17" firstPoint="10" secondPoint="12" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="#waist_to_hem"/>
+        </calculation>
+        <modeling>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="62" idObject="3" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <spline type="modelingSpline" inUse="false" id="63" idObject="38"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="64" idObject="4" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="65" idObject="6" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <spline type="modelingPath" inUse="false" id="66" idObject="37"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="67" idObject="36" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="68" idObject="10" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="69" idObject="23" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <spline type="modelingSpline" inUse="false" id="70" idObject="27"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="71" idObject="19" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <spline type="modelingSpline" inUse="false" id="72" idObject="26"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="73" idObject="22" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="74" idObject="21" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <spline type="modelingSpline" inUse="false" id="75" idObject="25"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="76" idObject="18" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <spline type="modelingSpline" inUse="false" id="77" idObject="24"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="78" idObject="20" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
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+            <spline type="modelingSpline" inUse="false" id="82" idObject="61"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="189" idObject="3" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <spline type="modelingSpline" inUse="false" id="190" idObject="38"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="191" idObject="4" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="192" idObject="6" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <spline type="modelingPath" inUse="false" id="193" idObject="37"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="194" idObject="36" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
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+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="196" idObject="188" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="true" id="201" idObject="3" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <spline type="modelingSpline" inUse="true" id="202" idObject="38"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="true" id="203" idObject="4" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="true" id="204" idObject="6" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <spline type="modelingPath" inUse="true" id="205" idObject="37"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="true" id="206" idObject="36" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="true" id="207" idObject="10" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
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+            <point type="modeling" inUse="true" id="212" idObject="188" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+        </modeling>
+        <details>
+            <detail closed="1" id="213" name="front" supplement="0" mx="0" width="1" my="0">
+                <node type="NodePoint" nodeType="Contour" idObject="201" mx="0" my="0"/>
+                <node type="NodeSpline" reverse="0" nodeType="Contour" idObject="202" mx="0" my="0"/>
+                <node type="NodePoint" nodeType="Contour" idObject="203" mx="0" my="0"/>
+                <node type="NodePoint" nodeType="Contour" idObject="204" mx="0" my="0"/>
+                <node type="NodeSplinePath" reverse="0" nodeType="Contour" idObject="205" mx="0" my="0"/>
+                <node type="NodePoint" nodeType="Contour" idObject="206" mx="0" my="0"/>
+                <node type="NodePoint" nodeType="Contour" idObject="207" mx="0" my="0"/>
+                <node type="NodePoint" nodeType="Contour" idObject="208" mx="0" my="0"/>
+                <node type="NodePoint" nodeType="Contour" idObject="209" mx="0" my="0"/>
+                <node type="NodePoint" nodeType="Contour" idObject="210" mx="0" my="0"/>
+                <node type="NodePoint" nodeType="Contour" idObject="211" mx="0" my="0"/>
+                <node type="NodePoint" nodeType="Contour" idObject="212" mx="0" my="0"/>
+            </detail>
+        </details>
+    </draw>
+    <draw name="back">
+        <calculation>
+            <point type="single" x="34.2942" y="1.05833" id="84" name="B" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="85" name="B1" basePoint="84" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="270" length="neck_back_to_waist_b + 0.625"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="86" name="B2" basePoint="84" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="0" length="bust_circ / 4 - 2.5"/>
+            <point type="pointOfIntersection" id="87" name="B3" firstPoint="86" secondPoint="85" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="88" name="Bk" firstPoint="84" secondPoint="85" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="0.625"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="89" name="Bl" firstPoint="84" secondPoint="85" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="5"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="90" name="Bo" firstPoint="84" secondPoint="86" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="5"/>
+            <spline type="simple" point4="90" kAsm1="1.03478" kAsm2="0.527085" angle1="2.15226" angle2="218.676" id="91" kCurve="1" color="black" point1="88"/>
+            <point type="pointOfIntersection" id="92" name="B4" firstPoint="86" secondPoint="89" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <point type="pointOfContact" id="93" name="Bp" radius="Line_Am_As" center="90" firstPoint="89" secondPoint="92" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="95" name="Bt" firstPoint="85" secondPoint="84" mx="-1.80042" lineColor="black" my="-0.294885" length="armpit_to_waist_side + 0.625"/>
+            <point type="pointOfIntersection" id="96" name="Br" firstPoint="92" secondPoint="95" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <line typeLine="hair" id="97" firstPoint="89" secondPoint="95" lineColor="black"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="98" name="Bu" firstPoint="89" secondPoint="95" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="Line_Bl_Bt / 2"/>
+            <point type="endLine" typeLine="hair" id="99" name="Bv" basePoint="98" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" angle="0" length="across_back_b / 2"/>
+            <spline type="path" id="100" kCurve="1" color="black">
+                <pathPoint kAsm1="1" kAsm2="0.961074" pSpline="93" angle="254.856"/>
+                <pathPoint kAsm1="1" kAsm2="0.963119" pSpline="99" angle="275.744"/>
+                <pathPoint kAsm1="1" kAsm2="1" pSpline="96" angle="354.822"/>
+            </spline>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="104" name="Bw" firstPoint="85" secondPoint="87" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="(Line_B_B2 - (waist_circ / 2 - Line_A5_A7 - Line_A8_A9 - Line_A10_Ae)) / 2"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="105" name="Bx" firstPoint="87" secondPoint="85" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="Line_B1_Bw"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="106" name="By" firstPoint="104" secondPoint="105" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="#center_back_at_waist"/>
+            <line typeLine="hair" id="107" firstPoint="106" secondPoint="105" lineColor="black"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="108" name="Bz" firstPoint="106" secondPoint="105" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="Line_By_Bx / 2"/>
+            <point type="cutSplinePath" id="109" name="Bn" color="black" mx="0.132292" splinePath="100" my="0.264583" length="SplPath_Bp_Br / 3"/>
+            <point type="cutSplinePath" id="112" name="B5" color="black" mx="0.132292" splinePath="100" my="0.264583" length="SplPath_Bp_Br * 2 / 3"/>
+            <line typeLine="hair" id="117" firstPoint="96" secondPoint="105" lineColor="black"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="119" name="B8" firstPoint="96" secondPoint="105" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="Line_Br_Bx / 2"/>
+            <point type="lineIntersect" id="120" name="B6" p2Line1="104" p2Line2="96" p1Line1="88" p1Line2="95" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
+            <line typeLine="hair" id="121" firstPoint="120" secondPoint="104" lineColor="black"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="122" name="B7" firstPoint="120" secondPoint="104" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="Line_B6_Bw / 2"/>
+            <line typeLine="hair" id="123" firstPoint="122" secondPoint="119" lineColor="black"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="124" name="Bs" firstPoint="122" secondPoint="119" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.16547" length="Line_B7_B8 / 2 - 1"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="125" name="Ba" firstPoint="124" secondPoint="122" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="Line_By_Bz / 2"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="126" name="Bb" firstPoint="124" secondPoint="119" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="Line_Bs_Ba"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="127" name="Bc" firstPoint="120" secondPoint="96" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="Line_B6_Br / 2- 3"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="128" name="Bd" firstPoint="127" secondPoint="96" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="Line_By_Bz"/>
+            <spline type="path" id="129" kCurve="1" color="black">
+                <pathPoint kAsm1="1" kAsm2="1.09865" pSpline="106" angle="85.8418"/>
+                <pathPoint kAsm1="0.918535" kAsm2="1.00743" pSpline="125" angle="83.0758"/>
+                <pathPoint kAsm1="0.924457" kAsm2="1.00187" pSpline="127" angle="63.3793"/>
+                <pathPoint kAsm1="0.750222" kAsm2="1" pSpline="109" angle="31.2966"/>
+            </spline>
+            <spline type="path" id="130" kCurve="1" color="black">
+                <pathPoint kAsm1="1" kAsm2="1" pSpline="108" angle="86.8867"/>
+                <pathPoint kAsm1="1.01966" kAsm2="1.03832" pSpline="126" angle="84.6556"/>
+                <pathPoint kAsm1="0.70803" kAsm2="1.18908" pSpline="128" angle="70.8779"/>
+                <pathPoint kAsm1="0.931803" kAsm2="1" pSpline="112" angle="63.1698"/>
+            </spline>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="199" name="B9" firstPoint="85" secondPoint="88" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="- #waist_to_hem"/>
+            <point type="alongLine" typeLine="none" id="200" name="B10" firstPoint="87" secondPoint="96" mx="0.132292" lineColor="black" my="0.264583" length="- #waist_to_hem"/>
+        </calculation>
+        <modeling>
+            <point type="modeling" inUse="false" id="153" idObject="104" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583"/>
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