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************************************
The American System of Dressmaking
************************************
The blocks in this directory have been drawn following the instructions
on `The American System of Dressmaking`_ by miss Pearl Merwin, published
in 1909.
.. _`The American System of Dressmaking`: https://archive.org/details/americansystemof00merw/page/n3
Measurements
============
The blocks have been converted to metric measures.
All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a
corset, following the instructions given by the book.
Waist
-----
Measurements used for the waist block (pages 20/21).
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| American System | Valentina |
+======================+=====+==============================================+
| 1. Neck measure | G01 | ``neck_mid_circ`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 2. Bust measure | G04 | ``bust_circ`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 3. Waist measure | G07 | ``waist_circ`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 4. Front measure | P03 | ``neck_back_to_armfold_front_to_waist_side`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 5. Back measure | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_back_b`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 6. Chest measure | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 7. Width of back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 8. Under arm measure | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 9. Armhole measure | L19 | ``armscye_circ`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| 10. Shoulder measure | I01 | ``shoulder_length`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
Additional measures used in the block and not listed on those pages are:
H37 ``shoulder_slope_neck_side_length``
2.5 - 5 cm (shoulder drop);
G34 ``neck_arc_half_b``
6 cm if the neck (G01) is between 30 and 38 cm.
Sleeve
------
Measurements used for the sleeve (pages 53-54).
.. list-table::
:header-rows: 1
* - American system
-
- valentina
* - 1. Length of sleeve
- 014
- ``arm_armscye_back_center_to_wrist_bent``
* - 2. Length of sleeve from shoulder to elbow
- 014 - L03
- (as above) - ``arm_elbow_to_wrist_bent``
* - 3. Inside measure from armhole to wrist
- L08
- ``arm_armpit_to_wrist``
* - 4. Armhole measure
- L19
- ``armscye_circ``
* - 5. Elbow measure
- L13
- ``arm_elbow_circ``
* - 6. Hand measure
- D05
- hand_circ
Skirt
-----
Measurements used for the skirt (pages 133-134).
Here the book does not give names to the measurements, but refers to the
lines on figures 1 and 2 on pages 28 and 29.
+-----------------+-----+------------------------+
| American System | Valentina |
+=================+=====+========================+
| 1. Line 3 | G07 | ``waist_circ`` |
+-----------------+-----+------------------------+
| 2. Line 14 | G09 | ``hip_circ`` |
+-----------------+-----+------------------------+
| 3. | H35 | ``waist_to_hip_side`` |
+-----------------+-----+------------------------+
| 4. Line 15 | A13 | ``height_waist_front`` |
+-----------------+-----+------------------------+
| 5. Line 16 | A05 | ``height_waist_side`` |
+-----------------+-----+------------------------+
| 6. Line 17 | A23 | ``height_waist_back`` |
+-----------------+-----+------------------------+
|
