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authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2021-08-03 21:52:18 +0200
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2021-08-03 21:52:18 +0200
commitf1a8553e3a089bba2ed64ef2246ca28261b2d1ec (patch)
treef8dc1240f23abc00aadddff9f87573f7ac7f1eae
parent5e14060b9098e5f0eadd15cb7d83f542bf9cbf0b (diff)
measurements for the Cutters Practical Guide
-rw-r--r--cutters_practical_guide/README.rst90
-rw-r--r--cutters_practical_guide/measurements.vit38
2 files changed, 128 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/cutters_practical_guide/README.rst b/cutters_practical_guide/README.rst
new file mode 100644
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--- /dev/null
+++ b/cutters_practical_guide/README.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,90 @@
+****************************************************************
+ The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies Garments
+****************************************************************
+
+The blocks in this directory have been drawn following the instructions
+on `The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies Garments`_ by
+W. D. F Vincent, published in 1892.
+
+.. _`The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies Garments`: https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc
+
+Also available `on wikisource
+<https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/The_cutters%27_practical_guide_to_the_cutting_of_ladies%27_garments>`_,
+which includes plates 2 and 3, missing on the archive.org copy.
+
+Measurements
+============
+
+The blocks have been converted to metric measures.
+
+All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a
+corset, following the instructions given by the book.
+
+Jackets, Ulsters, Bodices, Habits, Dolmands &c.
+-----------------------------------------------
+
+Pages 5/6, Figures 8 and 9, Plate 3
+
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Cutters' | Valentina |
++======================+=====+==============================================+
+| Chest | G04 | ``bust_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Hips | G09 | ``hip_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Scye Depth | H21 | ``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Natrl Waist | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Side lenght | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Long Side Length | A04 | ``height_armpit`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Across Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Width of B. to Elb. | O12 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Full length sleeve | O13 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Across Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Prominence of Bust | P09 | ``armfold_to_armfold_bust`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ / 2`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Front Sholdr. | P02 | ``neck_back_to_armfold_front`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Over Sholdr. | P01 | ``neck_back_to_bust_front`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Sholdr to waist | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| | K04 | ``shoulder_tip_to_waist_back`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+
+For skirts and trousers
+
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Cutters' | Valentina |
++======================+=====+==============================================+
+| Front length | A13 | ``height_waist_front`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Side length | A05 | ``height_waist_side`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Back length | A23 | ``height_waist_back`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Waist to chair | N04 | ``rise_length_side_sitting`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+
+For riding habit etc.
+
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Cutters' | Valentina |
++======================+=====+==============================================+
+| | | |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| | | |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| | | |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
diff --git a/cutters_practical_guide/measurements.vit b/cutters_practical_guide/measurements.vit
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2e9d401
--- /dev/null
+++ b/cutters_practical_guide/measurements.vit
@@ -0,0 +1,38 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<vit>
+ <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.47. (https://valentinaproject.bitbucket.io/).-->
+ <version>0.5.1</version>
+ <read-only>false</read-only>
+ <notes/>
+ <unit>cm</unit>
+ <pm_system>998</pm_system>
+ <personal>
+ <customer/>
+ <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date>
+ <gender>unknown</gender>
+ <email/>
+ </personal>
+ <body-measurements>
+ <m name="bust_circ" value="90"/>
+ <m name="waist_circ" value="65"/>
+ <m name="hip_circ" value="100"/>
+ <m name="neck_back_to_highbust_b" value="20"/>
+ <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="39"/>
+ <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="26"/>
+ <m name="height_armpit" value="120"/>
+ <m name="across_back_b" value="15"/>
+ <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent" value="45"/>
+ <m name="arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent" value="70"/>
+ <m name="across_chest_f" value="20"/>
+ <m name="armfold_to_armfold_bust" value="48"/>
+ <m name="neck_circ" value="40"/>
+ <m name="neck_back_to_armfold_front" value="30"/>
+ <m name="neck_back_to_bust_front" value="40"/>
+ <m name="neck_back_to_waist_front" value="50"/>
+ <m name="shoulder_tip_to_waist_back" value="41"/>
+ <m name="height_waist_front" value="95"/>
+ <m name="height_waist_side" value="100"/>
+ <m name="height_waist_back" value="105"/>
+ <m name="rise_length_side_sitting" value="20"/>
+ </body-measurements>
+</vit>