Ladies Jacket: front / sides / back

3 files changed, 44 insertions, 16 deletions

diff --git a/cutters_practical_guide/README.rst b/cutters_practical_guide/README.rst
index 3e07007..eab5c88 100644
--- a/cutters_practical_guide/README.rst
+++ b/cutters_practical_guide/README.rst
@@ -67,6 +67,8 @@ Pages 5/6, Figures 8 and 9, Plate 3
 |                      | P04 | ``highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_f`` |
 +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
 
+Note that the hips measurement is taken on top of a bustle
+
 For skirts and trousers
 
 +----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
diff --git a/cutters_practical_guide/ladies_jacket.val b/cutters_practical_guide/ladies_jacket.val
index 15a95d4..d8302a1 100644
--- a/cutters_practical_guide/ladies_jacket.val
+++ b/cutters_practical_guide/ladies_jacket.val
@@ -11,8 +11,11 @@
         <increment description="distance between the back of the neck and the bottom of the shoulder" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b / 6" name="#shoulder_line"/>
         <increment description="distance between waist and hips. wasn't measured, but a standard used, in the book" formula="18" name="#waist_to_hips"/>
         <increment formula="3" name="#ease"/>
-        <increment description="waist suppression in the back and sides: up to 3 or even 4 cm for tight-laced waists." formula="2.5" name="#waist_suppression"/>
-        <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="20" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/>
+        <increment description="waist suppression in the back and sides: usually 2.5 cm, but up to 3 or even 4 cm for tight-laced waists." formula="2.5" name="#waist_suppression"/>
+        <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/>
+        <increment formula="hip_circ" name="#hips_with_bustle"/>
+        <increment description="width of the button stand, button side" formula="4" name="#stand_width_buttons"/>
+        <increment description="width of the button stand, buttonholes side" formula="2.5" name="#stand_width_holes"/>
     </increments>
     <previewCalculations/>
     <draw name="pattern">
@@ -59,15 +62,10 @@
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="220" angle2="70" color="black" id="41" length1="3" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="12" point4="34" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="250" angle2="AngleLine_A1_A3 + 90" color="black" id="42" length1="3" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="34" point4="40" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point angle="AngleLine_A3_Ae - 90" basePoint="40" id="43" lineColor="black" mx="-1.96924" my="-2.11618" name="A3d" p1Line="2" p2Line="26" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <point firstPoint="43" id="44" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="-0.418619" my="-2.25589" name="A3dqqq" secondPoint="26" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point angle="0" basePoint="6" id="45" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A25f" p1Line="23" p2Line="14" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <point id="46" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3b" p1Line1="40" p1Line2="6" p2Line1="44" p2Line2="45" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
-            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A1_A3 - 90" angle2="90" color="black" id="47" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="40" point4="46" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="6" id="45" lineColor="black" mx="0.389547" my="0.396875" name="A25f" p1Line="23" p2Line="14" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="40" id="48" length="#waist_suppression" lineColor="black" mx="-1.80093" my="-2.04419" name="A4" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="250" color="black" id="49" length1="5" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="48" point4="34" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point angle="270" basePoint="48" id="50" length="Spl_A4q_A3 - Spl_A4_A4q" lineColor="black" mx="-1.70705" my="1.14797" name="A4d" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <point id="51" mx="-2.27037" my="0.302988" name="A4b" p1Line1="50" p1Line2="6" p2Line1="43" p2Line2="45" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
-            <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="270" color="black" id="52" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="51" point4="50" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point firstPoint="48" id="53" length="Line_A4q_A8b - #waist_suppression / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.76153" my="-1.85331" name="A7q" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="53" id="54" length="#waist_suppression" lineColor="black" mx="0.652546" my="-1.85331" name="A8q" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="54" id="55" length="Line_A8b_A11h - #waist_suppression / 2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.76153" my="-2.08609" name="A11q" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
@@ -76,19 +74,13 @@
             <point angle="90" basePoint="35" curve="57" id="58" lineColor="black" mx="-0.899307" my="-3.32757" name="A8ba" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_Af_Ad + 90" color="black" id="61" length1="8" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="36" point4="30" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point angle="90" basePoint="33" curve="61" id="62" lineColor="black" mx="-2.0632" my="-3.63794" name="A11ha" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
-            <point firstPoint="53" id="65" mx="-3.38228" my="-2.08609" name="A7qd" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
-            <point firstPoint="65" id="66" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="0.885324" my="-2.0085" name="A7qdqqq" secondPoint="26" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point id="67" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7qb" p1Line1="53" p1Line2="6" p2Line1="66" p2Line2="45" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
-            <point id="68" mx="-3.30468" my="0.24169" name="A8qb" p1Line1="54" p1Line2="6" p2Line1="65" p2Line2="45" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
-            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="90" color="black" id="69" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="53" point4="67" type="simpleInteractive"/>
-            <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="270" color="black" id="70" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="68" point4="54" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <point firstPoint="39" id="71" length="3.8" lineColor="black" mx="-1.36486" my="1.63836" name="A20hw" secondPoint="56" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <line firstPoint="50" id="72" lineColor="black" secondPoint="53" typeLine="hair"/>
             <line firstPoint="56" id="73" lineColor="black" secondPoint="39" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="71" id="74" length="(Line_A1_A3 + Line_A4d_A7q + Line_A8q_A11q + Line_A12q_At - waist_circ / 2 - #ease) / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A19" secondPoint="56" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="74" id="75" length="3.8" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A17h" secondPoint="56" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="75" id="76" length="Line_A20hw_A19" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16" secondPoint="56" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <arc aScale="0" angle1="250" angle2="300" center="22" color="cornflowerblue" id="77" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_bust_front - Spl_A_A0qqq" type="simple"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="250" angle2="300" center="22" color="cornflowerblue" id="77" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_bust_front - Spl_A_A0qqq + 1" type="simple"/>
             <point firstPoint="71" id="78" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-1.97983" my="-1.65516" name="A5" secondPoint="74" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="75" id="79" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-1.78745" my="-1.71929" name="A6" secondPoint="76" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point angle="AngleLine_A22_A20h" basePoint="78" curve="77" id="80" lineColor="black" mx="0.136331" my="-2.4888" name="A7" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/>
@@ -99,6 +91,40 @@
             <point firstPoint="80" id="89" length="Line_A7_A20hw" lineColor="black" mx="-1.59508" my="1.29464" name="A11" secondPoint="74" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="78" id="90" length="- #length_darts_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A12" secondPoint="80" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="79" id="91" length="- #length_darts_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13" secondPoint="83" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point id="92" mx="-3.10944" my="-1.97744" name="A14" p1Line1="76" p1Line2="2" p2Line1="91" p2Line2="26" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
+            <point id="93" mx="0.639474" my="-2.22736" name="A15" p1Line1="75" p1Line2="2" p2Line1="91" p2Line2="26" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
+            <line firstPoint="92" id="94" lineColor="black" secondPoint="93" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point id="95" mx="-3.10944" my="-2.1024" name="A17" p1Line1="74" p1Line2="2" p2Line1="90" p2Line2="26" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
+            <point id="96" mx="0.764438" my="-2.35233" name="A18" p1Line1="71" p1Line2="2" p2Line1="90" p2Line2="26" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
+            <line firstPoint="95" id="97" lineColor="black" secondPoint="96" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="55" id="98" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-0.860091" my="-2.35233" name="A20" secondPoint="56" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="98" id="99" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point id="100" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A23" p1Line1="55" p1Line2="6" p2Line1="99" p2Line2="45" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
+            <point firstPoint="99" id="101" length="(#hips_with_bustle / 2 + 5 - Line_A22h_A23h + Line_A14_A15 + Line_A17_A18) / 3" lineColor="black" mx="-1.57946" my="-2.29182" name="A1hips" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="53" id="102" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A24" secondPoint="54" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="102" id="103" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A26" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="103" id="104" length="Line_A21_A1hips" lineColor="black" mx="-1.92212" my="0.467414" name="Aqqq2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="43" id="105" length="Line_A21_A1hips" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Aqqq" secondPoint="26" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point id="106" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A27" p1Line1="40" p1Line2="6" p2Line1="105" p2Line2="45" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
+            <point id="107" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A28" p1Line1="50" p1Line2="6" p2Line1="43" p2Line2="45" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
+            <point id="108" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A29" p1Line1="53" p1Line2="6" p2Line1="103" p2Line2="45" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
+            <point id="109" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A30" p1Line1="54" p1Line2="6" p2Line1="104" p2Line2="45" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
+            <point id="110" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A31" p1Line1="56" p1Line2="6" p2Line1="101" p2Line2="45" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A1_A3 - 90" angle2="90" color="black" id="111" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="40" point4="106" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="90" color="black" id="112" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="50" point4="107" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="90" color="black" id="113" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="53" point4="108" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="90" color="black" id="114" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="54" point4="109" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="90" color="black" id="115" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="55" point4="100" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="90" color="black" id="116" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="56" point4="110" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="90" color="black" id="118" length1="5" length2="10" penStyle="hair" point1="9" point4="6" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A3_A27 - 90" angle2="0" color="black" id="119" length1="3" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="106" point4="6" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A7q_A29 - 90" angle2="AngleLine_A4d_A28 + 90" color="black" id="120" length1="3" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="108" point4="107" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A11q_A23 - 90" angle2="AngleLine_A8q_A30 + 90" color="black" id="121" length1="2.46815" length2="1.62316" penStyle="hair" point1="100" point4="109" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_Av_A25f - 90" angle2="AngleLine_A12q_A31 + 90" color="black" id="122" length1="3" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="45" point4="110" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point angle="AngleLine_Av_A25f + 90" basePoint="24" id="123" length="#stand_width_buttons" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A32" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="24" id="124" length="#stand_width_holes" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A33" secondPoint="123" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="AngleLine_Av_A25f + 90" basePoint="45" id="125" length="#stand_width_buttons" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A34" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="45" id="126" length="#stand_width_holes" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A35" secondPoint="125" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
         </calculation>
         <modeling/>
         <details/>
diff --git a/cutters_practical_guide/measurements.vit b/cutters_practical_guide/measurements.vit
index 4b7fcab..d5935d0 100644
--- a/cutters_practical_guide/measurements.vit
+++ b/cutters_practical_guide/measurements.vit
@@ -15,7 +15,7 @@
     <body-measurements>
         <m name="bust_circ" value="90"/>
         <m name="waist_circ" value="65"/>
-        <m name="hip_circ" value="100"/>
+        <m name="hip_circ" value="120"/>
         <m name="neck_back_to_highbust_b" value="20"/>
         <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="39"/>
         <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="19"/>