Foundation skirt

2 files changed, 265 insertions, 13 deletions

diff --git a/cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/foundation_skirt_improved.val b/cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/foundation_skirt_improved.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..56083ea
--- /dev/null
+++ b/cutters_practical_guide/elaborations/foundation_skirt_improved.val
@@ -0,0 +1,220 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern labelPrefix="en" passmarkLength="">
+    <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.47. (https://valentinaproject.bitbucket.io/).-->
+    <version>0.8.11</version>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <description>Foundation Skirt from the Cutter's Practical Guide to the cutting of Ladies' Garments, by W. D. F. Vincent, page 41 (49 of the pdf)
+
+https://archive.org/details/cutterspractical00vinc</description>
+    <notes/>
+    <patternName>Foundation Skirt</patternName>
+    <patternNumber/>
+    <company>Cutter's Practical Guide</company>
+    <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+        <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
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+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+    </patternLabel>
+    <measurements>../measurements.vit</measurements>
+    <increments>
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+        <increment formula="45" name="#pocket_depth_from_waist"/>
+        <increment formula="14" name="#pocket_width"/>
+    </increments>
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+        </calculation>
+        <modeling>
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+            <path cut="false" firstToCountour="false" id="64" inUse="false" lastToCountour="false" name="front_seam" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1">
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="62" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="63" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </path>
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+            <point id="105" idObject="97" inUse="false" mx="0.610273" my="-2.45507" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+        </modeling>
+        <details>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="55" mx="0" my="0" name="front_and_side" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="2">
+                <data annotation="Some or all darts can be changed to pleats" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="A" mx="-860.641" my="1020.96" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%pAnnotation%"/>
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+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-852.203" my="860.641" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="72" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="71" visible="true"/>
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+                    <node idObject="45" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="46" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node after="0" idObject="47" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node after="0" before="0" idObject="48" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node before="0" idObject="73" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="49" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="50" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="51" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="52" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="53" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="54" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <iPaths>
+                    <record path="64"/>
+                </iPaths>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>71</record>
+                    <record>72</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="61" mx="0" my="0" name="back" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="2">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="B" mx="-3484.65" my="340.019" onFold="true" orientation="" quantity="1" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-3478.89" my="109.498" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="75" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="74" visible="true"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node before="0" idObject="56" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="57" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="58" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="59" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node after="0" idObject="60" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>74</record>
+                    <record>75</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="80" mx="-4.26945" my="-1.82976" name="facing" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="1">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="C" mx="-1871.85" my="155.307" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="2">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-1857.27" my="94.4131" rotation="0" visible="true" width="2"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="76" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node after="2" idObject="77" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node before="2" idObject="78" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="81" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="79" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="96" mx="56.7407" my="-11.4161" name="pocket" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="2">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="D" mx="-1748.87" my="1050.67" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-1753.95" my="862.79" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="89" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="102" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="103" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="104" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="105" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="95" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </detail>
+        </details>
+        <groups/>
+    </draw>
+</pattern>
diff --git a/cutters_practical_guide/foundation_skirt.val b/cutters_practical_guide/foundation_skirt.val
index 910e679..8d3e782 100644
--- a/cutters_practical_guide/foundation_skirt.val
+++ b/cutters_practical_guide/foundation_skirt.val
@@ -6,7 +6,7 @@
     <description/>
     <notes/>
     <patternName>Foundation Skirt</patternName>
-    <patternNumber></patternNumber>
+    <patternNumber/>
     <company>Cutter's Practical Guide</company>
     <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
         <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
@@ -17,7 +17,11 @@
         <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
     </patternLabel>
     <measurements>measurements.vit</measurements>
-    <increments/>
+    <increments>
+        <increment formula="2.5" name="#placket_depth"/>
+        <increment formula="45" name="#pocket_depth_from_waist"/>
+        <increment formula="14" name="#pocket_width"/>
+    </increments>
     <previewCalculations/>
     <draw name="pattern">
         <calculation>
@@ -53,10 +57,15 @@
             <point firstPoint="10" id="30" length="25" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="10" id="31" length="13" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <point firstPoint="31" id="32" length="14" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
-            <point angle="179.446" basePoint="30" id="33" length="2.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="30" id="33" length="#placket_depth" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
             <point firstPoint="33" id="34" length="1.25" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A9" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
             <spline aScale="0" angle1="180" angle2="270" color="black" id="35" length1="1" length2="1" penStyle="hair" point1="30" point4="34" type="simpleInteractive"/>
             <line firstPoint="11" id="82" lineColor="black" secondPoint="8" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="3" id="83" length="#pocket_depth_from_waist" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="5" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="32" id="97" mx="0.610273" my="-2.45507" name="A12" secondPoint="83" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="97" id="99" length="#pocket_width" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="-2.17437" name="A13" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="99" id="100" length="18" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A14" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="-30" angle2="90" color="black" id="101" length1="5" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="31" point4="100" type="simpleInteractive"/>
         </calculation>
         <modeling>
             <point id="36" idObject="10" inUse="false" mx="0.152954" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
@@ -91,16 +100,22 @@
                     <node idObject="63" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
             </path>
-            <point id="71" idObject="7" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="72" idObject="8" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="73" idObject="8" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="74" idObject="27" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="75" idObject="24" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
-            <point id="76" idObject="3" inUse="true" mx="-2.7494" my="-1.61245" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="77" idObject="10" inUse="true" mx="0.152954" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="78" idObject="30" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <point id="79" idObject="34" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
-            <spline id="81" idObject="35" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="71" idObject="7" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="72" idObject="8" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="73" idObject="8" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="74" idObject="27" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="75" idObject="24" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="76" idObject="3" inUse="false" mx="-2.7494" my="-1.61245" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="77" idObject="10" inUse="false" mx="0.152954" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="78" idObject="30" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="79" idObject="34" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="81" idObject="35" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="89" idObject="31" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="95" idObject="32" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="102" idObject="101" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="103" idObject="100" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="104" idObject="99" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="-2.17437" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="105" idObject="97" inUse="false" mx="0.610273" my="-2.45507" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
         </modeling>
         <details>
             <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="55" mx="0" my="0" name="front_and_side" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="2">
@@ -178,6 +193,23 @@
                     <node idObject="79" type="NodePoint"/>
                 </nodes>
             </detail>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="96" mx="56.7407" my="-11.4161" name="pocket" seamAllowance="true" version="2" width="2">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="D" mx="-1771.85" my="975.826" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-1784.11" my="785.811" rotation="0" visible="true" width="5"/>
+                <grainline arrows="0" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" visible="false"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node idObject="89" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="102" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="103" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="104" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="105" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="95" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="vMark" type="NodePoint"/>
+                </nodes>
+            </detail>
         </details>
         <groups/>
     </draw>