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|
The Cutters' Practical Guide to the Cutting of Ladies Garments
==============================================================
This section follows :cite:`1892:cutters`.
At least some of the original blocks included sewing allowances: they
have all been consistently removed, and the automatic sewing allowances
from Valentina used instead.
All measurements have also been converted to metric.
Measurements
------------
The blocks have been converted to metric measures.
All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a
corset *and bustle* , following the instructions given by the book.
The file :download:`cutters.vit` include all the measurements used in
these blocks and the patterns derived from them.
Instructions on how to take them are on the pages listed of the book
itself.
.. _cutters_jackets:
Jackets, Ulsters, Bodices, Habits, Dolmands &c.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Pages 5/6, Figures 8 and 9, Plate 3
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Cutters' | Valentina |
+======================+=====+==============================================+
| Chest | G04 | ``bust_circ`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Hips | G09 | ``hip_circ`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Scye Depth | H21 | ``neck_back_to_highbust_b`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Natrl Waist | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Side lenght | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Long Side Length | A04 | ``height_armpit`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Across Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Width of B. to Elb. | O12 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_elbow_bent`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Full length sleeve | O13 | ``arm_across_back_center_to_wrist_bent`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Across Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Prominence of Bust | P09 | ``armfold_to_armfold_bust`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ / 2`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Front Sholdr. | P02 | ``neck_back_to_armfold_front`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Over Sholdr. | P01 | ``neck_back_to_bust_front`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Sholdr to waist | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| | P04 | ``highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_f`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
Note that the hips measurement is taken on top of a bustle
Skirts and Trousers
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Cutters' | Valentina |
+======================+=====+==============================================+
| Front length | A13 | ``height_waist_front`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Side length | A05 | ``height_waist_side`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Back length | A23 | ``height_waist_back`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Waist to chair | N04 | ``rise_length_side_sitting`` |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
Riding Habits etc.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| Cutters' | Valentina |
+======================+=====+==============================================+
| | | |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| | | |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
| | | |
+----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
Blocks
------
S. B. tight-fitting Jacket
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Page 7, diagram 1, plate 4., plus sleeve from page 26, diagram 41, plate
21.
* :download:`ladies_jacket.val`
Vest
^^^^
Page 21, diagram 29 to 34, plate 16.
* basic block, for hooks and eyes :download:`vest.val`
* with buttonhole stand (single breasted)
:download:`vest_single_breasted.val`
Skirt
^^^^^
Page 41, diagram 87, plate 38.
* :download:`foundation_skirt.val`
|
