path: root/source/contemporary_womenswear/underwear/pajamas_set/index.rst

Pajamas set
===========

.. figure:: pajamas.jpg
   :align: center

These are relatively fitting jersey pajamas (the nightwear, not the
original Indian trousers) with a V neck and pointed details at the top
hem and long sleeves.

There are options for long and short sleeves and trousers.

It is a pretty simple pattern suitable for beginners, where the main
fiddly bit is the point of the V neck, and would be pretty fast to make
for an experienced sewist.

Materials
---------

Fabric
^^^^^^

* Stretch fabric such as cotton jersey, from less than 1.5 m for short
  sleeves / trousers up to 4 m for a full set (long + short tops and
  trousers).

Notions
^^^^^^^

* matching sewing thread;
* ~ 20 cm, 1.5 cm wide cotton tape for each top;
* enough elastic 2 cm wide to go around the waist for each bottom;
* optional: scraps of fusible interfacing;
* optional: fabric paint.

Pattern
-------

Measurements
^^^^^^^^^^^^

This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`.

You need to take the following measurements:

``bust_circ`` (G04)
   Bust circumference.
``waist_circ`` (G07)
   Waist circumference.
``hip_circ`` (G09)
   Hip circumference; this is not used in the yoke pattern, but will be
   needed later when cutting the body of the nightgown.
``across_back_b`` (I08)
   Width of the back from armscye to armscye.
``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20)
   Vertical distance from the waist to the hip, on the side.
``neck_circ`` (G02)
   Circumference at the base of the neck.
``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
   Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back.
``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L05)
   Length of the arm
``height_waist_back`` (A.23)
   From the waist to floor, on the back.
``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20)
   From the waist to the hip, on the side.

the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.

Pattern
^^^^^^^

Get the valentina files for the pattern,
:download:`pajamas_top.val` and :download:`pajamas_bottom.val`.

You may want to change the following increments in the Tables of
Variables; the defaults are sensible.

For both patterns:

``sewing_allowance``
   e.g. 2 cm to allow for flat felled and / or french seams.

For the pajamas top:

``finished_length_side``
   finished length, without the point;
``bottom_point_length``
   length of the point at the center back and front;
``neck_dip_front``
   distance from the base of the neck to the neckhole, in front;
``sleeve_length_jersey``
   3 cm less than the regular length of the sleeve
   (``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent``)
``short_sleeve_length``
   to taste, somewhere in the middle of the biceps;
``sleeve_point_length``
   length of the point at the hem of the sleeve.

For the pajamas bottom:

``finished_length_long``
   finished length of the long trousers;
``finished_length_short``
   finished length of the short trousers;
``leg_hem_circ``
   circumference of the hem of each leg;
``back_rise``
   how much to add to the back to allow for the bum curve: the default
   is calculated based on the difference between waist and hips;

Instructions
------------

When not otherwise specified, all seams should be sewn with an elastic
stitch: either a lightning stitch (if available) or a very narrow
zig-zag.

Top
^^^

Cut one of the front and back pieces, on the fold of fabric; cut two of
your chosen sleeve, also on the fold. The most efficient way is probably
to open the fabric flat, fold in just enough of each side to cut the
front and back, and then cut the sleeves from the remaining center part.

.. tip::

   if you plan to decorate your pajamas with fabric paint you may want
   to do so at this stage, on the cut pieces, when you don't have to
   deal with the rest of the garment. Since the pattern is designed with
   a flat block, however, it's not a big deal to wait until it's fully
   assembled.

Also cut the neckhole binding: a cross-grain strip of fabric (along the
direction where it is most elastic), long enough to go around the
neckhole.

Optionally, if making long sleeves, cut two of the sleeve facing, on the
fold.

.. tip::

   You can cut the neckhole binding and the sleeve facings in a
   contrasting fabric.

Cut two pieces of cotton tape as wide as the shoulder seam.

.. figure:: 0101-shoulder_tape.jpg
   :align: center

Right sides together, put the front over the back and align the tape so
that it just covers the shoulder seam line and sew with a straigth
stitch.

.. figure:: 0102-shoulder_tape_topstitched.jpg
   :align: center

Press everything towards the back and topstitch with a straigth stitch
near the other edge of the tape, enclosing all allowances.

.. figure:: 0103-neck_binding.jpg
   :align: center

Right sides together, put the binding over the neck, starting from the
center back; sew with 1 cm allowance.

.. figure:: 0104-neck_binding_finished.jpg
   :align: center

Press the binding up and fold it over the allowances, enclosing them;
herringbone stitch it by hand on the wrong side.

.. note::

   Alternatively you can let the binding overlap a bit over the seam on
   the wrong side, and stitch in the ditch by machine.

.. tip::

   .. figure:: 0104a-neck_binding_v_point.jpg
      :align: center

   to make a clean V point in the V neck, after the binding has been
   sewn to the body fold it right sides together right at the point and
   sew with a backstitch a line 1 cm long that is about 30° from the
   fold. Then continue enclosing the allowances, taking care to arrange
   it in such a way that it opens at the seam in the front, and the back
   is still neat.

.. figure:: 0105-sleeve_first.jpg
   :align: center

Wrong sides together, put the sleeves over the body, easing the
difference near the top of the sleeve, sew with a 8 mm allowance.

.. figure:: 0106-sleeve_second.jpg
   :align: center

Turn it so that the right sides are together, sew again with a 1 cm
allowance to make a french seam.

.. figure:: 0107-side_seam.jpg
   :align: center

Wrong sides facing, sew the side seams, starting from the sleeve and
going down to the hem, with a 8 mm allowance; turn everything so that
the right sides are facing and sew again with a 1 cm allowance to make a
french seam.

.. figure:: 0108-sleeve_facing.jpg
   :align: center

If making a long sleeve, right sides together sew the short side of the
facing.

.. figure:: 0109-sleeve_facing_sewn.jpg
   :align: center

Put the facing on the sleeve, right sides together, and sew the end of
the sleeve.

.. figure:: 0110-sleeve_facing_topstitched.jpg
   :align: center

Fold the remaining allowance of the facing towards the wrong side, fold
the facing towards the wrong side of the sleeve in such a way that it
peeks out on the right side, and topstitch with an elastic stitch close
to the border and close to the fold.

If making a short sleeve, fold its bottom edge twice and topstitch it
(ideally with a twin needle).

.. figure:: 0112-mitering_bottom_first_fold.jpg
   :align: center

To miter the corners in the front and back of the hem, trim about 3 cm
from the point, perpendicularly to the vertical axis, fold the edge
close to the corner once towards the back by 2 cm.

.. figure:: 0113-mitering_bottom_corner_fold.jpg
   :align: center

Fold the point down so that it will align to the point.

.. figure:: 0114-mitering_bottom_pinned.jpg
   :align: center

And fold the edges again by 2 cm, making sure that the point is neat.

.. figure:: 0115-hem.jpg
   :align: center

Fold the rest of the bottom edge twice towards the back and topstitch it
(again ideally with a twin needle) to hem it.

Bottom
^^^^^^

Cut two of the legs, marking the position of the pocket on the right
leg. Also cut one of the pocket.

.. tip::

   If the recipent is left-handed you may want to put the pocket on the
   left leg.

.. figure:: 0201-interfacing.jpg
   :align: center

Optionally, put scraps of fusible interfacing on the right side of the
fabric right inside the top and bottom corners of the pocket.

.. figure:: 0202-basted_pocket.jpg
   :align: center

Fold down the top edge of the pocket by 1 cm (half the sewing allowance)
towards the wrong side, pin it, fold also all remaining edges by 1 cm
(full allowance) and baste in place.

.. figure:: 0203-topstitched_pocket.jpg
   :align: center

Fold down the top edge of the pocket a second time by 1 cm, topstitch at
8 mm from the edge.

.. figure:: 0304-pocket.jpg
   :align: center

Put the pocket over the right leg, in the position marked on the
pattern, topstitch in place.

.. figure:: 0305-inseam.jpg
   :align: center

Wrong sides together sew the inseam with a 8 mm allowance, turn inside
out so that they are right sides together and sew with a 1 cm allowance
to make a french seam. In the next steps these allowances should go
towards the back.

.. figure:: 0306-crotch_seam.jpg
   :align: center

Put one leg inside the other, wrong sides together, sew the crotch seam
with a 8 mm allowance, turn right sides together and sew with a 1 cm
allowance to make a french seam.

.. figure:: 0307-hem.jpg
   :align: center

Fold down the hem twice, topstitch (ideally with a twin needle) to hem.

.. figure:: 0308-casing.jpg
   :align: center

Fold down the top twice, so that the folded edge lies over the seam
line, topstitch (with a twin needle) to form a casing for the elastic,
leaving an opening in the center back.

.. figure:: 0309-elastic.jpg
   :align: center

Measure enough elastic to go snugly around the waist, insert it in the
casing, sew it in a circle and hemstitch the casing closed by hand.

Gallery
-------