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Liliana Nightgown
=================
.. .. figure::
:align: center
This nightgown is named after my great-aunt
Materials
---------
Fabric
^^^^^^
* About 1 m double width cotton or linen fabric.
Yarn
^^^^
* Thin crochet cotton or linen yarn.
Notions
^^^^^^^
* sewing thread matching the yarn;
* sewing thread matching the fabric.
Yoke Pattern
------------
Measurements
^^^^^^^^^^^^
This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich/index`.
You need to take the following measurements:
``bust_circ`` (G04)
Bust circumference.
``waist_circ`` (G07)
Waist circumference.
``hip_circ`` (G09)
Hip circumference; this is not used in the yoke pattern, but will be
needed later when cutting the body of the nightgown.
``across_back_b`` (I08)
Width of the back from armscye to armscye.
``neck_circ`` (G02)
Circumference at the base of the neck.
``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
Vertical distance from neck to waist on the back.
the file :download:`../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
Pattern
^^^^^^^
Get the valentina file for the pattern,
:download:`liliana_nightgown_yoke.val`.
Fabric Pattern
--------------
After making the yoke, try it on and measure the distance from the end
of the yoke to where you want the nightgown to end, plus 2.5 cm for
sewing allowances.
The body of the nightgown is a rectangle as high as the distance
measured above and *at least* 20 cm wider than the ``hip_circ``
measurement, up to the full width of the fabric.
The sleeves are two rectangles 20 cm high ad as wide as the full length
of the armscyes of the yoke plus 2-4 cm.
Instructions
------------
Yoke
^^^^
Following the shape of the pattern, without the sewing allowances, make
the yoke twice in filet crochet, starting with a simple back and adding
a decorative pattern to the front.
Alternatively, use any other tecnique (knitting, bobbin lace, etc.) to
make two yokes (with no sewing allowances) or cut them in fabric with
sewing allowances.
Join the sides and shoulders of the two yokes in a way that is
appropriate for the tecnique used.
Cutting
^^^^^^^
Proceed with the measurements of the fabric pattern above and cut the
body and the two sleeves.
Sewing
^^^^^^
.. figure:: 0301-seam_alignment.jpg
:align: center
Using the thread that matches the fabric, sew the lenght of the body
with a flat felled seam: wrong sides together align the one edge of the
fabric at 5 mm from the other edge and sew with 1 cm sewing allowance.
Press, fold and press the wider allowance so that all raw edges are
covered and topstitch.
Fold down the top edge of the fabric once 5 mm *towards the right side*,
sew about 2 mm from the fold.
Do the same to the sleeves: flat fell the sleeve in a short tube, and
fold down its top edge.
.. tip::
.. figure:: 0305-symmetical_sleeves.jpg
:align: center
Flat fell the seams of the two sleeves so that they are symmetrical,
and then attach them to the yoke with the fell facing towards the
back.
Fold down the hem of the nightgown twice 1 cm and topstitch; if your
machine has a fancy stitch that visually resembles the yoke you can use
that in the thread that matches the yoke, otherwise use a simple
straight stitch in the thread that matches the fabric.
Do the same to the hem of the sleeves.
Pin the body to the lower edge of the yoke, with the right side of the
body on the wrong side of the yoke, overlapping by 5 mm excluding any
scalloped edge of the yoke.
Start in the center back with the flat felled seam and distribute the
excess fabric into the front by making pleats that face towards the
sides.
Using the thread that matches the yoke, topstitch with a narrow zig zag.
Repeat the same to the sleeves, aligning the seam with the bottom of the
armscye and making a box pleat on the top of the shoulder.
Gallery
-------
|
