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Basic Jeans
===========
.. figure:: jeans_and_elastic_top.jpg
:align: center
These are, construction wise, the same as the menswear
:doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`,
drafted for a body shape that requires more space on the back than on
the front.
The default setting is for the jeans to sit on the low waist, but it can
be adjusted to go to the natural waist.
Materials
---------
Fabric
^^^^^^
* Between 1 and 1.5 m of sturdy trouser fabric: denim, corduroy,
heavyweight linen etc. or technical breathing and abrasion resistant
2nd layer fabric;
* 50 cm pocket fabric.
Notions
^^^^^^^
* sewing thread to match the fabric;
* zipper, as long as the fly piece from the pattern;
* a suitable button;
* 16 cm of 2 cm wide elastic;
* optional: 2.5 m bias binding to finish some raw edges (any colour, as
it won’t show).
Pattern
-------
Measurements
^^^^^^^^^^^^
This pattern uses the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/index`.
You need to take the following measurements:
``highhip_circ`` (G08)
circumference of the low waist, where these jeans are designed to
sit;
``hip_circ`` (G09)
circumference of the hips;
``height_waist_side_to_hip`` (A.20)
vertical distance from Waist to Hip;
``rise_length_side`` (N08)
vertical distance from Waist side down to Crotch level;
``height_waist_back`` (A23)
height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back,
going over the buttocks;
the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
Pattern
^^^^^^^
Get the valentina file for the pattern,
:download:`basic_jeans.val`.
In the table of variables in Valentina you can also set the following
increments; for styling you probably want to change ``waist_position``
(and the related ``waist_circ``), ``jeans_bottom_width`` (and possibly
the related ``jeans_knee_width``) and ``hips_ease``; for curvier people
you may need to change ``front_curve_distance``, ``back_curve_distance``
and / or crutch_ease, for everything else the default should be
generally fine:
``waistband_depth``
height of the waistband, e.g. 4 cm;
``waist_position``
the distance between the natural waist and the waist of the jeans:
the drafting system suggested 5 cm;
``waist_circ``
the circumference where the waist of the jeans will be: equals to
``highip_circ`` if ``waist_position`` is 5 cm;
``jeans_bottom_width``
width of the legs at the hems (half the circumference), 19 cm gives a
straight cut on average sizes, make sure that it is at least as wide
as the diagonal circumference across the heel and ankle;
``jeans_knee_width``
width at the knee (half the circumference): 2 cm more than the hem,
but it can be increased a bit for skinny jeans where the hem is quite
narrow;
``front_curve_distance``
3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise;
``back_curve_distance``
4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise;
``crutch_ease``
5 or 6 cm;
``hips_ease``
added ease at the hips, per side, e.g. 1 cm;
``pocket_opening_width``
how wide the pocket should be, e.g. 12 cm;
``pocket_opening_depth``
how deep the pocket opening should be, e.g. 7.5 cm;
``pocket_facing_width``
how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in
the horizontal direction, e.g. 3 cm;
``pocket_facing_depth``
how much the pocket facing should overlap away from the opening, in
the vertical direction, e.g. 5 cm;
``pocket_depth``
how deep the pocket should be, from the top, e.g. 26 cm;
``pocket_depth_side``
where the pocket should stop following the side seam, e.g. 19 cm;
``pocket_depth_front``
where the pocket should stop following the front seam, e.g. 9.5 cm;
``coin_pocket_width``
how wide the coin pocket is, e.g. 8 cm;
``coin_pocket_depth``
how tall the coin pocket is, e.g. 10 cm;
``fly_piece_width``
the width of the fly piece, e.g. 4 cm;
``back_pocket_width``
the width of the back pocket at the top, e.g. 18 cm;
``back_pocket_depth``
the depth of the back pocket, e.g. 18 cm;
``back_pocket_point_depth``
the vertical distance from the tip of the pocket to where the bottom
lines start at the sides, e.g. 3 cm;
``back_pocket_raster``
how much the sides of the pockets should taper in before the bottom
lines, e.g. 0.5 cm;
``sewing_allowance``
enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams.
After adding all measurements, adjust the parameters of curves A9_A6 and
A24_A19 so that they about touch the cornflower blue arcs.
Instructions
------------
Follow the instructions for the
Menswear :doc:`../../../contemporary_menswear/trousers/basic_jeans/index`.
.. tip::
If you want to make a quick mockup, you can do so with the :ref:`block
used to draft the jeans <aldrich_block_close_fitting_trouser_jeans>`,
as that only uses four pieces, but can be used to double check the
measurements. Be sure to set the increments to the same values as in the
jeans pattern.
When sewing the waistband you may want to add a third piece of elastic
at the center back, just like the two on the side seams.
Alternatively, there is a shaped waistband variant: to use that cut two
pieces, right sides together sew the top seam, and then treat it as the
straight waistband, skipping the elastic.
Variants
--------
Shaped Waistband
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Instead of a straight waistband shaped with elastic you can make a
shaped waistband: cut two of that part instead of the straight
waistband, and when you get to that stage do as follows.
.. tip:: If you need to piece the waistband you can do it on the center
back, sew the two pieces wrong sides together and then flat fell the
seam. In that case make sure to flat fell the outer waistband and the
waistband facing in the opposite directions, to reduce bulk; you may
also want to flat fell the outer waistband in the same direction as
that of the back seam of the trousers, but this is just to make it
look nicer.
.. figure:: 0a01-sewn_waistband_outer.jpg
:align: center
Right sides together, sew the outer waistband to the jeans, matching all
notches to the seam lines. Press the allowances up.
.. tip:: To help with selecting the right piece: make sure that you're
sewing the widest side of the waistband, and that the side with the
straight bit goes where the placket extension is. Don't ask me how I
needed this :D
.. figure:: 0a02-sewn_waistband_facing.jpg
:align: center
Right sides together, put the waistband facing on the outer facing and
sew all 3 remaining edges.
Press inside out; you may want to clip the corners, and if needed clip
and notch the curved edges, but don't trim the allowances, as they are
used to give more body to the waistband.
.. figure:: 0a03-waistband_pressed.jpg
:align: center
Press the remaining edge up, enclosing all allowances, and topstitch at
2 mm and then at 1 cm from all four edges.
Gallery
-------
|
