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Low Waste Bathrobe
==================

.. figure:: bathrobe.jpg
   :align: center

.. only:: html

   .. contents::

This is a simple bathrobe made out of fabric rectangles, shaped by a
single pleat in the center back and a self-fabric belt.

It is a pretty quick project (making it took me about half a day), but
maybe not the best for beginner sewists, as inserting the sleeves can be
a bit fiddly.

I'm calling it low waste rather than no-waste because folding up the
sleeves to make cuffs rather than cutting them down to the correct
length (and having a leftover) sounds like cheating (and the pleat in
the back is a *design choice*, but also a bit of cheating with regards
to fabric waste).

Materials
---------

Fabric
^^^^^^

* Less than 2 m of towel material (see the pattern below for precise amounts);
* 15 cm cotton jersey in a matching or contrasting color, for binding.

The fabric should be both absorbent and somewhat elastic in all
directions: honeycomb is a great choice, while terry may be a bit tricky
to work with.

Specifically, the sleeves and the end of the shoulder seam towards the
neckline will require an elastic fabric; if not using one you can add
small triangular gussets to ease the transition between the straight
lines.

Notions
^^^^^^^

* sewing thread to match the fabric.

Pattern
-------

Measurements
^^^^^^^^^^^^

You need to take the following measurements:

``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18)
   vertical distance from the back of the neck to the knee (or to where
   you want the bathrobe to end);
``across_back_b`` (I08)
   from armscye to armscye on the back;
``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
   vertical distance from the back of the neck to the waist;
``shoulder_length`` (I01)
   distance from the side of the neck to the tip of the shoulder;
``armscye_circ`` (L19)
   circumference around the armscye.

Pattern
^^^^^^^

.. figure:: bathrobe.svg
   :align: center

Measure a rectangle as wide as the full width of the fabric and as high
as the desired length of the bathrobe (A18) plus 2 cm sewing allowance.

Near the top, mark the quarter points, where you will cut the armscye
slits, half ``armscye_circ`` (L19) long. From each quarter point,
measure half ``across_back_b`` (I08) towards the center back, and
measure the position of the center back seam, which should be
``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) plus 2 cm long.
Mark two slits, 5 cm tall for the belt in the pleat fabric, parallel to
the seam at about 2 cm of distance, and aligned with the end of the
seam.

For the sleeves, measure two rectangles as tall as half the width of the
fabric and as high as ``armscye_circ`` (L19) plus 4 cm allowance.

For the belt, measure a rectangle as wide as the full width of the
fabric, and 10 cm long.

Instructions
------------

When sewing it's important to use a stretch stitch to preserve the
elasticity of the fabric: if your machine has a lighting bolt stretch
stich you can use that, otherwise a narrow zig-zag (1.5 mm wide) will
do.

Since all seams are fully enclosed (either french or flat-felled) a
serger is not required, and using one will require adjustment of the
pattern.

Cutting
^^^^^^^

Cut the rectangles described in the Pattern section; mark the position
of the armscye slits with a partial cut 5–10 cm long, but don't cut them
fully until you're ready to insert the sleeves.

.. tip::

   As long as the selvedges aren't horribly different from the fabric,
   don't cut them away, but let them be part of the pattern pieces.

From the jersey, cut cross-grain strips 4-5 cm wide for the binding;
with wide jersey 3 strips will usually be enough.

Slits
^^^^^^

.. figure:: 0101-marked_slit_facing.jpg
   :align: center

From the binding, cut two rectangles 8-9 cm tall, mark a rectangle 1 cm
wide and 5 cm tall in their middle and align them over the slits marked
on the fabric, on the right side.

.. figure:: 0102-sewn_slit_facing.jpg
   :align: center

Sew over the rectangle, carefully cut the slit in the center, angling
towards the corners.

.. figure:: 0103-pinned_slit_facing.jpg
   :align: center

Turn the binding to the wrong side, and topstitch at 1 cm from the slit
to keep it in place.

Pleat
^^^^^

.. figure:: 0202-basted_pleat.jpg
   :align: center

Wrong sides together, sew the center back pleat.

Baste the pleat flat near the top border.

.. figure:: 0204-hanging_loop.jpg
   :align: center

If you have scraps from straighening the fabric, cut a rectangle about 3
cm wide and 10 cm long, fold in in 3 and sew it in the middle with a
wide zig-zag, otherwise you can use a bit of sturdy ribbon.

Sew its short sides to the top border, near the center of the pleats.

Shoulders
^^^^^^^^^

.. figure:: 0301-shoulders.jpg
   :align: center

Wrong sides together, put the front over the back and sew
``shoulder_length`` (I01) starting from each sleeve slit with 8 mm
allowance.

.. figure:: 0302-shoulders.jpg
   :align: center

Turn inside out, and sew again at 1 cm allowance to make a french seam.

Sleeves
^^^^^^^

.. figure:: 0401-sleeves.jpg
   :align: center

Wrong sides together, align one long side of the sleeve at 1 cm distance
from the other, and sew with a 2 cm sewing allowance.

Repeat with the other sleeve, taking care to do so simmetrically.

.. figure:: 0402-felled_sleeve.jpg
   :align: center

Fold the large allowances over the smaller one and topstitch to flat
fell.

Finish cutting the sleeve slits on the body.

.. figure:: 0403-inserted_sleeve.jpg
   :align: center

Wrong sides together, insert each sleeve in the body, pinning the sleeve
seam at the bottom of the slit.

Sew with a seam allowance of 8 mm, starting just before the bottom of
the slit and ending just after it, so that there is a double line of
sewing for strenght.

.. figure:: 0404-french_sewn_sleeve.jpg
   :align: center

Turn the sleeve inside out, sew again with a 1 cm allowance to finish
the french seam, sewing again twice near the bottom of the slit.

Finishing
^^^^^^^^^

.. figure:: 0501-binding.jpg
   :align: center

Right sides together, sew the binding all around the edge of the
bathrobe, starting from the center top. Also sew the remaining binding
to the sleeve cuffs.

Fold the binding over the edge, enclosing all raw edges, and hemstitch
it by hand or topstitch it from the right side.

Belt
^^^^

.. figure:: 0601-belt_sewn.jpg
   :align: center

Fold the belt in half lengthwise, sew at 1 cm from the side.

.. figure:: 0602-belt_finished.jpg
   :align: center

Turn inside out; if you're using the selvedge of the fabric there will
be no need to finish the ends.

Gallery
-------

.. figure:: bathrobe_back.jpg
   :align: center