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|
Square Hood
===========
.. figure:: square_hood_front.jpg
:align: center
.. only:: html
.. contents::
This hood is vaguely inspired by the Skjoldehamn Hood, in that the
finished object has a vaguely similar shape, but uses a completely
different construction method and pattern, suitable for very narrow
fabric (e.g. one handwoven on a narrow loom).
The construction isn't historically accurate for any specific time
period, but uses hand stitches widely uses through history.
It is based on hemming all panels and then whipstitching them together:
if you don't care about visible machine stitches you may do the hemming
by machine, but then the assembly is just easier by hand.
It is also a low-waste project that only uses squares and rectangles,
and thus can be done with relatively little fabric (for the amount of
coverage) and few tools.
Materials
---------
Fabric
^^^^^^
* 70 - 80 cm of light to mid weight fabric such as wool or linen.
Notions
^^^^^^^
* Matching sewing thread.
Pattern
-------
Measure around your head, at the height of the forehead, and around the
face from the top of the head to the chin; take the biggest measurement
and divide it by two: this is the *minimum* width of the panels, if you
want a deeper hood add maybe a cm or two. This will probably be
somewhere between 30 and 35 cm. This will be the basic width.
Cut one rectangle as wide as the basic width and four times as long,
plus 1-2 cm for a hemming allowance on all sides where you don't have an
usable selvedge, and two squares with a side of the basic width, plus
the same allowance.
Instructions
------------
.. figure:: 0101-hemming_edges.jpg
:align: center
Hem all edges: fold down the raw edges twice towards the wrong side,
mitering the corners, and either hemstitch down or topstitch with a
running stitch.
.. tip::
If your fabric has plain selvedges, like those created by historical
looms, you can avoid finishing that side and use it as-is.
.. tip::
When using heavier fabric that does not fray, like fulled wool, you
can fold it just once towards the wrong side instead of twice, for
less bulk.
.. figure:: 0102-first_gore_seam.jpg
:align: center
Put one of the squares on one end of the long piece, right sides
together, whipstitch one edge of the square to the long edge of the long
piece, starting from the bottom of the hood and going up.
Fold the long piece in half, right sides together, fold the square in
half on the diagonal, wrong sides together, and put it into the long
piece in such a way as to form a gore.
.. figure:: 0104-second_gore_seam.jpg
:align: center
Starting from the bottom whipstitch first the second leg of the square
to the long piece
.. figure:: 0105-back_seam.jpg
:align: center
and then continue sewing up the back seam of the hood.
.. figure:: 0106-first_front_gore_seam.jpg
:align: center
Repeat with the front gore: put the other square on the other end of the
long piece, right sides together, and whipstitch starting from the hood
and going up.
.. figure:: 0107-second_front_gore_seam.jpg
:align: center
Then fold the gore on the diagonal, insert it into the hood as before,
and whipstitch starting from the bottom, this time stopping just above
the the point of the square to leave an opening for the face.
Gallery
-------
.. figure:: flannel_hood_front.jpg
:align: center
See Also
--------
* `An article on the actual Skjoldehamn Hood
<https://projectbroadaxe.weebly.com/viking-age-nordic-history/skjoldehamn-hood-the-original-find-reproduction-and-application>`_,
with pictures of the original and a reconstruction.
|
