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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst index 3b96774..c266de8 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -8,4 +8,5 @@ combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index 1904_combination_suit/index + single_layer_midbust_corset/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e037678 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,168 @@ +Single Layer Midbust Corset +=========================== + +.. figure:: + :align: center + +This is a simple corset in 6 panels, suitable for a generic victorian + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* less than 1 m of strong corset fabric, e.g. coutil. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* strong sewing thread to match the fabric; +* boning: either ~ 14 m 10 mm syntetic whalebone or ~ 8 m 10 mmspiral + steel and ~ 3.5 m 10 mm flat steel; +* one steel busk; +* ~ 4 m 25 mm twill tape suitable for boning channels, or the same + amount premade boning channel tape; +* less than 1 m 10 mm twill tape suitable for a waist tape; +* buttonhole twist silk for flossing. + +Pattern +------- + +the file :download:`measurements.vit` is used by default by the pattern +file and has the list of needed measurements. + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +These measurements should be taken while wearing just modern underwear +(including a well fitting bra); a tight camisole with side seams can +help to take the arc measurements, and it's helpful to mark at least the +waist, but ideally all of the circumferences with tape. + +Full circumferences: + +``bust_circ`` (G04) + Circumference around Bust; +``lowbust_circ`` (G05) + Circumference under the breasts; +``waist_circ`` (G07) + Circumference around the Waist; +``highhip_circ`` (G08) + Circumference at the hip bone level; +``hip_circ`` (G09) + Circumference around the widest part of the hips; + +The same measurements, just on the front, from an ideal side seam to an +ideal side seam: + +``bust_arc_f`` (G12) + ; +``lowbust_arc_f`` (G13) + ; +``waist_arc_f`` (G15) + ; +``highhip_arc_f`` (G16) + ; +``hip_arc_b`` (G17) + ; + +And the corresponding back arcs; in the valentina file these are +calculated from the two measurements above (but you may want to take +these measurements as a double check): + +``bust_arc_b`` (G28) + ; +``lowbust_arc_b`` (G29) + ; +``waist_arc_b`` (G31) + ; +``highhip_arc_b`` (G32) + ; +``hip_arc_b`` (G33) + ; + +Vertical measurements; except for the first one taken straight in the +front (i.e. not following the curve of the body) between the heights +where the above measurements had been taken: + +``armpit_to_waist_side`` (H03) + this is used to check the height of the corset under the armpit and + should follow the curve of the body; +``bust_to_waist_f`` (H10) + ; +``lowbust_to_waist_f`` (H11) + ; +``waist_to_highhip_f`` (H30) + ; +``waist_to_hip_f`` (H31) + ; + +And finally, a custom measurement that is specific for corsets: + +``reduced_waist_circ`` + this can be the natural waist, a couple of cm less, or more if you so + desire. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`midbust_corset.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables: + +``waist_to_top_f`` + from the waist to the top of the corset in the front: around the + measurement of ``bust_to_waist`` is usually good; +``waist_to_top_side`` + from the waist to the top of the corset under the armpit: this should + be less than ``armpit_to_waist_side``; +``waist_to_top_b`` + from the waist to the top of the corset on the back: often, but not + always, the same as ``waist_to_top_f``; +``waist_to_bottom_f`` + from the waist to the bottom of the corset in the center front; +``waist_to_bottom_side`` + from the waist to the bottom of the corset on the side; +``waist_to_bottom_b`` + from the waist to the bottom of the corset in the center back: often, + but not always, the same as ``waist_to_bottom_f``; +``lacing_gap`` + usually 5 - 10 cm; +``sewing_allowance`` + 2 cm will allow for easy adjustments of the pattern. + + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut 2 of panels 2-5, cut 2 of panels 1 and 5 *on the fold* (both the +center front and the center back panels will have two layers, everything +else will be single layer). + +Carefully mark all sewing lines as well as the waistline. + + +Variants +-------- + +Boning Variant +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Instead of having two wide bones per seam, you can use narrower boning +and add an additional bone in the middle of each panel. + +To do so, after you've inserted the busk sew a channel in the middle of +each panel except for the back ones, perpendicular to the waist line, +and then proceed as per the instructions above. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: + :align: center diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit new file mode 100644 index 0000000..27a24d8 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/measurements.vit @@ -0,0 +1,38 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<vit> + <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.5.2</version> + <read-only>false</read-only> + <notes/> + <unit>cm</unit> + <pm_system>998</pm_system> + <personal> + <customer/> + <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date> + <gender>unknown</gender> + <email/> + </personal> + <body-measurements> + <m name="bust_circ" value="80"/> + <m name="lowbust_circ" value="70"/> + <m name="waist_circ" value="65"/> + <m name="highhip_circ" value="90"/> + <m name="hip_circ" value="90"/> + <m name="bust_arc_f" value="50"/> + <m name="lowbust_arc_f" value="35"/> + <m name="waist_arc_f" value="35"/> + <m name="highhip_arc_f" value="45"/> + <m name="hip_arc_f" value="45"/> + <m name="bust_arc_b" value="(bust_circ - bust_arc_f)"/> + <m name="lowbust_arc_b" value="(lowbust_circ - lowbust_arc_f)"/> + <m name="waist_arc_b" value="(waist_circ - waist_arc_f)"/> + <m name="highhip_arc_b" value="(highhip_circ - highhip_arc_f)"/> + <m name="hip_arc_b" value="(hip_circ - hip_arc_f)"/> + <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="19"/> + <m name="bust_to_waist_f" value="18"/> + <m name="lowbust_to_waist_f" value="13"/> + <m name="waist_to_highhip_f" value="10"/> + <m name="waist_to_hip_f" value="20"/> + <m description="Circumference around the waist with a confortable reduction." full_name="Reduced Waist circumference" name="@reduced_waist_circ" value="60"/> + </body-measurements> +</vit> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..534577f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/single_layer_midbust_corset/midbust_corset.val @@ -0,0 +1,102 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <measurements path="measurements.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment formula="bust_to_waist_f + 1" name="#waist_to_top_f"/> + <increment formula="armpit_to_waist_side - 4" name="#waist_to_top_side"/> + <increment formula="#waist_to_top_f" name="#waist_to_top_b"/> + <increment formula="(waist_to_highhip_f + waist_to_hip_f) / 2" name="#waist_to_bottom_f"/> + <increment formula="waist_to_highhip_f " name="#waist_to_bottom_side"/> + <increment formula="#waist_to_bottom_f" name="#waist_to_bottom_b"/> + <increment formula="5" name="#lacing_gap"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="corset"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="-0.471952" my="-1.99686" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="2" length="bust_to_waist_f" lineColor="black" mx="-0.877097" my="-2.09406" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="lowbust_to_waist_f" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="4" length="waist_to_hip_f" lineColor="black" mx="-0.656086" my="-2.4572" name="A3" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="5" length="waist_to_highhip_f" lineColor="black" mx="-0.656086" my="-2.27306" name="A4" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="3" id="6" length="lowbust_arc_f" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="3" id="7" length="CurrentLength/3 * 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="3" id="8" length="CurrentLength/3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="3" id="9" length="lowbust_arc_b - 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