diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_womenswear/underwear')
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst | 29 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst | 9 |
2 files changed, 22 insertions, 16 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst index 04568a0..e90862f 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst @@ -8,7 +8,14 @@ .. contents:: -:cite:`1838:workwoman` +These are ankle-length split drawers based on the instructions on page 53 of +:cite:`1838:workwoman`. + +It is a simple, serviceable garment. + +Because of the period, the construction instructions assume handsewing, +but most seams could also be sewn by machine and then either felled by +hand or topstitched by machine. Materials --------- @@ -16,9 +23,13 @@ Materials Fabric ^^^^^^ -* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 150 cm wide. +If the width of the fabric is less than about 1.5 times the width of the +hips you won't be able to cut the two legs side by side, and more fabric +will be required. + Notions ^^^^^^^ @@ -49,8 +60,8 @@ For modern bodies, I would adapt these measurements by using the distance between the waist and the ankle plus 6 cm (for hems and allowances) for the total length, and half the width of the (modern) fabric for the width, as long as that's almost the circumference of the -hips (so that the total circumference of the drawers will be close to -*twice* the circumference of the hips). +hips minus at most 15 - 25 cm (so that the total circumference of the +drawers will be close to *twice* the circumference of the hips). For the width of the hem (A to B) and for the vertical distance between the front and the back waist (G to F) I'd stay close to the suggested @@ -66,7 +77,7 @@ calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows). Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd -reccommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +recommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table and measuring them directly on the fabric. Instructions @@ -112,12 +123,12 @@ Assembly ^^^^^^^^ Press the waistband in half with wrong sides together, press one sewing -allowance towards the inside on both long ends. +allowance towards the inside on both long sides. .. figure:: 0302-sewing_waistband_ends.jpg :align: center -Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the lenght, sew the +Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the length, sew the short ends, press and turn inside out. .. figure:: 0303-gathering_legs.jpg @@ -170,10 +181,6 @@ Finishing Make a buttonhole and attach a button near the top of the waistband. -Variants --------- - - Gallery ------- diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst index b7dabfc..846ed10 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst @@ -15,7 +15,9 @@ It has short puffed sleeves and a trapezoidal neckline that is also suitable for evening dresses. There are buttonholes on the shoulder straps that can be used to fold -them over the corset straps and keep the pointy bit in place. +them over the corset straps to keep the sleeves in place: using these is +pretty much required, as the shift isn't tight enough at the upper bust +to keep them in place on their own. Contrary to other shifts of the same period, it doesn't have the corset-protecting front flap, but is even more economical in fabric use, @@ -424,7 +426,4 @@ Gallery See also -------- -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354899/chemise-unknown/ -* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354896/chemise/?carousel-image=2020MR4797 +* A couple of chemises with similar sleeves: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ and https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ |