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-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst33
1 files changed, 22 insertions, 11 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
index d3ce260..bcad59a 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_shift_with_shoulder_straps/index.rst
@@ -133,13 +133,13 @@ side of the body and sew them with a german hemming seam:
fold down one allowance from the body towards the wrong side and press;
fold down one allowance from the gore towards the *right* side and
-press; wrong sides together put the gore on top of the body, aligning it
-so that it is just below the folded raw edge, and hemstitch the gore to
-the body from the wrong side.
+press; right sides together put the body on top of the gore, aligning it
+so that it is just below the folded raw edge, and hemstitch the body to
+the gore from the wrong side of the body.
-Press the seam open, so that the fold of the body covers the raw edge of
-the gore, and applique stitch the fold of the body to the gore to fell
-the seam.
+Press the seam open, so that the fold of the gore covers the raw edge of
+the body, and hemstitch the fold of the gore to the body to fell the
+seam.
Bosom Gores
^^^^^^^^^^^
@@ -159,6 +159,15 @@ and applique-stitch from the right side
and hemstitch from the wrong side.
+Fold down the top edge of both the front and back twice towards the
+wrong side and press, but wait until later to actually hem them.
+
+Gussets
+^^^^^^^
+
+Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side,
+mitering the corners, hemstitch.
+
Sleeves
^^^^^^^
@@ -170,13 +179,15 @@ make box pleats 2 cm ? wide and 6 mm ? deep to
distribute the width of the sleeves into the sleeve bands, leaving at
least 4 time the allowance unpleated near the side edges.
-Press the pleats on the full length of the sleeve.
+Press the pleats on the full length of the sleeve, sew a running stitch
+at less than one allowance from both edges to keep the pleats in place.
-Gussets
-^^^^^^^
+Fold one long edge of the sleeve band by one allowance towards the back,
+press.
+
+Put the sleeve band over the sleeve, wrong side to right side, and
+applique stitch the folded edge.
-Press the four edges of the gussets twice towards the wrong side,
-mitering the corners, hemstitch.
Shoulder Straps
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^