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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..56aff5b --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/1838_drawers/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,153 @@ +1838 Drawers +============ + +.. figure:: plate_7_fig_11_12.svg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* Less than 1.5 m of lightweight cotton or linen, at least 140 cm + wide. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; + +Pattern +------- + +:cite:`1838:workwoman` gave measurements for these drawers in just one +size, mentioning that they would work for a person of *moderate size*; +they are, converted to cm: + + +====== == +meas cm +====== == +width 80 +length 86 +A to B 23 +B to C 46 +C to G 40 +C to E 40 +F to G 6 +F to S 29 +====== == + +For modern bodies, I would adapt these measurements by using the +distance between the waist and the ankle plus 6 cm (for hems and +allowances) for the total length, and half the width of the (modern) +fabric for the width, as long as that's almost the circumference of the +hips (so that the total circumference of the drawers will be close to +*twice* the circumference of the hips). + +For the width of the hem (A to B) and for the vertical distance between +the front and the back waist (G to F) I'd stay close to the suggested +measurements, and scale everything else in proportion. + +For the waistband, I'd use the width of the waist plus an overlap for +the buttons: if the buttons are in the front a smaller overlap of maybe +3 cm will be enough, up to 5-10 cm if the buttons are in the back. + +There is a valentina file :download:`drawers.val` which does all of these +calculations based on the measurements in the corresponding +:download:`measurements.vit`. Note that all sewing allowances are +included in the pieces (and should be as small as the fabric allows). + +Rather than printing the pattern (and especially the bigger pieces) I'd +reccommend reading the length of relevant segments in the Variable Table +and measuring them directly on the fabric. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +.. if the fabric has a right and a wrong side, make SURE that you're + cutting two symmetrical pieces rather than two of the same. + +Legs +^^^^ + +Wrong sides together, put the leg seam, from A to B in such a way that +the front overlaps the back by one seam allowance, sew with a running +backstich. + +Press towards the back, folding the allowance of the front over that of +the back, and fell down with a hemming stitch. + +Fold the hems up two times towards the wrong side, sew with a hemming +stitch. + +Fold the open part, from Z to B to S two times towards the wrong side, +sew with a hemming stitch. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +Press the waistband in half with wrong sides together, press one sewing +allowance towards the inside on both long ends. + +Right sides together, fold the waistband in half on the lenght, sew the +short ends, press and turn inside out. + +Mark the point of the top of the legs at the center of the pattern; run +separate gathering threads about 8 mm from the top on the front and back +of the legs; if the fabric is coarse enough pick up three threads and +pass over four, otherwise try at least to maintain the ratio. + +.. note:: by aligning to the quarter point of the waistband the center + of the leg pattern, rather than half of the top edge, more fullness + is gathered to the back than to the front, as usually required by the + body. + +Pull the gathering threads tight and stroke each gather with a big +needle or a pin. + +Fold the waistband in half and mark the center point. Overlap the ends +by as much as it will be in the finished drawers and mark the quarter +points. + +Pin each leg inside the folded waistband by one sewing allowance, +matching the opening, the center of the leg to the quarter point and +overlapping the other side by 8 cm if it's on the back or just 1.5 cm if +it's on the front. Distribute the gathers and whipstitch the leg to the +waistband, catching each gather, first from the front and then from the +back. + +.. tip:: for ease of access, if the wearer is right-handed in toilet + matters you probably want to overlap the left leg over the right leg, + or the other way around if the wearer is left-handed. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +Make a buttonhole and attach a button near the top of the waistband. + +Variants +-------- + + +Gallery +------- + + +See also +-------- + +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354897/chemise/ +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354898/chemise/ +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354899/chemise-unknown/ +* https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O354896/chemise/?carousel-image=2020MR4797 |