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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2ff0e27 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/american/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,91 @@ +The American System of Dressmaking +================================== + +This section follows :cite:`1909:american`. + +All measurements have been converted to metric. + +Measurements +------------ + +The blocks have been converted to metric measures. + +All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a +corset, following the instructions given by the book. + +The file :download:`american.vit` include all the measurements used in +these blocks and the patterns derived from them. + +Instructions on how to take these measurements start with general +instructions at page 17, then the measurements used in the waists are +described starting from page 20, those for the sleeve from page 53 and +those for the skirt from page 133. + +.. figure:: fig_1.svg + :align: center + +.. figure:: fig_2.svg + :align: center + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| American System | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| 1 Neck | G01 | ``neck_mid_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 2 Bust | G04 | ``bust_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 3 Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 4 Front | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 5 Length of back | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 6 Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 7 Width of back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 8 Under arm | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 9 Armhole | L19 | ``armscye_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 10 Shoulder | I01 | ``shoulder_length`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| American System | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| 1 Length of sleeve | O14 | ``arm_armscye_back_center_to_wrist_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 2 shoulder to elbow | --- | ``@arm_armscye_back_center_to_elbow`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 3 inside arm | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 4 Armhole | L19 | ``armscye_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 5 Elbow | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 6 Hand Measure | D05 | ``hand_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + + ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| American System | Valentina | ++======================+=====+==============================================+ +| 1 Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 2 Hip | G09 | ``hip_circ`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 3 | H35 | ``waist_to_hip_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 4 | A13 | ``height_waist_front`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 5 | A05 | ``height_waist_side`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ +| 6 | A23 | ``height_waist_back`` | ++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+ + + +Blocks +------ + |