diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst')
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst | 692 |
1 files changed, 692 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b594f29 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,692 @@ +1880s Shirt +=========== + +.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-773.svg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on Beeton's housewife's +treasury of domestic information :cite:`1879:beeton` from around 1880. + +This is a transtitional pattern between the shirts completely made from +rectangles of the first half of the 19th century (and earlier) and the +more structured shirts of the 20th century. + +This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've +seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use +a pattern like this one, and it should work up to the Edwardian era, but +you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front +opening and especially collar and cuffs for each era. + +The same pattern can also be used for an early ladies' Garibaldi Shirt +:cite:`1840:godey` (pag 29). + +While assembling the shirt is a relatively easy project, the pattern +instructions are from a vintage book (and not one of the best, either), +so it will require more adjustments to fit the target body than usual +for a modern pattern. + +Before making this shirt in expensive fabric you will need to make a +mock-up, and even when using relatively cheap cotton shirting you may +want to make a mock up of the shoulder piece. + +I believe that the original instructions assumed that this shirt would +be hand sewn, but by the 1880s sewing machines in the home were most +definitely a thing (and they are mentioned in a later chapter of the +book). + +If you want to use a machine, your options are to sew by machine +everywhere the instructions say to backstitch and handsew everything +else (this option looks pretty close to a fully handsewn garment), or to +sew by machine the backstitched seams and topstitch every time the +instructions say to hemstitch or applique stitch something; for +historical accuracy buttonholes should still be done by hand, however, +unless that's not a concern. + +The pictures in this page are of a shirt where the backstitching is done +by machine, and everything else by hand. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 2 m of linen or cotton shirting fabric; +* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing for collars and cuffs (optional). + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* 5 or more small buttons. + +Pattern +------- + +Measurements +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +You need to take the following measurements: + +``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18) + vertical distance from the back of the neck to the knee; +``neck_circ`` (G02) + circumference of the neck; +``bust_circ`` (G04) + circumference of the torso, just below the armholes; +``neck_front_to_waist_f`` (H01) + vertical distance from the front of the neck to the waist; +``neck_side_to_waist_f`` (H05) + vertical distance from the side of the neck to the waist in the + front; +``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) + vertical distance from the back of the neck to the waist; +``shoulder_length`` (I01) + distance from the side of the neck to the tip of the shoulder; +``shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b`` (I07) + distance from one shoulder tip to the other one; +``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L01) + distance from the shoulder tip to the wrist, following a bent arm; +``arm_wrist_circ`` (L15) + circumference of the wrist; + +refer to the diagram in Valentina Tape for how to take them, and the +file :download:`shirt.vit` is used by default by the pattern file and +has the list of needed measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, :download:`1880_shirt.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible, +but you probably want to change the ``shirt_width`` so that it fits +nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible: + +``shirt_length_back`` + usually equals ``height_neck_back_to_knee``; +``shirt_length_front`` + a bit shorter (8-10 cm) than the back; +``shirt_width`` + the flat width of the shirt: historically this would have been the + width of the fabric (something like 90 - 100 cm would be typical), + and today using half the width of the fabric (70-80 cm) can work fine; +``front_slit_length`` + the length of the slit (and pleated part) in front: this can easily + be as long as the ``neck_front_to_waist_f`` measurement +``button_placket_width`` + the finished width of the button placket; 2.5 cm or to taste; +``ease`` + the total ease around the chest, used to calculate the following two + variables; +``front_slit_width`` + the width that is cut in the front for the slit: this should be at + least 15 cm wide for a 2.5 cm button placket and the rest will be + pleated; +``front_gathers_width`` + the final width to which the material in the front slit is pleated / + gathered: at least the width of the button placket; +``front_band_height`` + the band that covers the pleats and gathers in the front: 4 cm, or to + taste; +``yoke_depth`` + from the nape of the neck to where the yoke ends in the back, to taste; +``cuff_length`` + length of the cuff: 9 cm or to taste, or 2 cm for a cuff band used + with detached cuffs; +``sleeve_length`` + length of the sleeve: ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` minus half + the cuff, or to taste according to how puffed you want the sleeve to + be; +``sleeve_width`` + the basic width of the sleeve, before dealing with the gussets: this + is often half the ``shirt_width``; +``sleeve_wrist_circumference`` + the desired circumference of the sleeve at the wrist, before + gathering it into the cuff; +``sleeve_slit`` + the length of the slit at the wrist: 6 cm or to taste; +``collar_band_height`` + the height of the collar band, to be used with a detachable collar: 2 + cm is usually fine; +``sewing_allowance`` + the default sewing allowance, as small as you can manage, remembering + that many seams are sewn and felled, so the fabric will have to be + cut with double this allowance on one side: for hand sewing on thin + fabric 4-6 mm, machine sewing and thicker fabric will require a bit + more. + +The valentina file also has a few more intermediate variables that are +used to calculate the ``front_slit_width`` and ``front_gathers_width`` +from the given ``bust_circ``, ``shirt_width`` and ``ease``: you can +ignore them. + +The file is set up not to print the front, back and sleeves details, as +those are mostly big rectangles: you can get their measurements in Draw +mode as follows: + +back: + a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A2) and as high as + ``shirt_length_back`` (A – A1); +front: + a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A9) and as high as + ``shirt_lenght_front`` (A — A8); +sleeves: + the final sleeve shape is an isosceles trapezium with and height of + ``sleeve_length`` (A – A25), a short base of + ``sleeve_wrist_circumference`` (A28 – A29) and a long base that adds + to ``sleeve_width`` the same amount that has been taken away by the + other base (A30 – A31): the most efficient way however is to cut a + rectangle that is as high as ``sleeve_length`` and twice as wide as + ``sleeve_width``, and adjust the sides with gussets as explained + below. + +This pattern also includes just a collar band, which is used with +detached collars; you can of course add a full collar from any other +source. There is however a choice between a straight collar band (as +used in the book) and a more fitted curved collar band. + +Instructions +------------ + +Pattern adjustments +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Print the shoulder piece pattern and try it on; make any adjustments to +it so that it lies nicely, the neck curve follows the base of the neck +and arrives almost, but not quite, to the neck base in front, leaving +the space for the button placket. + +You probably need to make a fabric mockup for these checks, and then +bring the changes back to the pattern to cut the final pieces. + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +.. tip:: + + While cutting, you want to be really sure that the rectangular + pieces are cut on the grain: if the fabric allows it you can rip + them, otherwise try to cut it by following a thread. + +Cut the full rectangles for the front and back. + +.. figure:: 0101-marking_armholes.jpg + :align: center + +If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper +pattern for the armscyes <1880s_shirt_marking_armscyes>`, mark the seam +lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double +seaming allowance. + +.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg + :align: center + +If the fabric is non-directional and has no right and wrong side, the +best way to cut the sleeves is as described on the book: fold the +rectangle in such a way that the sides will meet precisely in the center +and baste them together, then fold them in such a way that the distance +a – g and h – c is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of +fabric along the fold. + +.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg + :align: center + +After re-opening the fabric, you will get the shape in figure, and you +will have to attach the small gusset to one side of the sleeve to +complete the trapezium. Note that because of the sewing allowances this +won't be a precise match, but the tolerance in this pattern is enough +for it not to be a problem. + +.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern-directional.svg + :align: center + +If the fabric is directional or simply has a defined right and wrong +side, you probably need to cut gussets from the wrist side of both sides +of the sleeves and sew them to the shoulder sides, as in the above +schematic. + +.. figure:: 0102-cutting_tongue.jpg + :align: center + + The tongue can be cut from one of the small scraps that remain when + cutting the shoulder piece. + +Cut four of the shoulder pieces, two of the front bands, two of each +collar piece, four of each cuff piece and two of the tongue. + +If your fabric requires it, cut two or four cuff pieces also in +interfacing, and one or two collar pieces if not using a simple collar +band. + +Keep all scraps, as you will need them later to cut some small +reinforcement patches. + +Collar and Cuffs +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-sew_collar.jpg + :align: center + +Put the collar band pieces right sides together, backstitch the sides +and top, leaving the bottom free to attach it to the shirt. + +.. figure:: 0202-pressed_collar.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press. + +.. note:: + + If making a full collar rather than a collar band refer to its + construction instructions, and you will probably need to add one or + two layers of interfacing. + +.. figure:: 0203-sew_cuffs.jpg + :align: center + +Put two cuff pieces right sides together (with the optional interfacing +on top), backstitch the sides and front (the shorter base of the +trapezium), leaving the other base free to attach it to the sleeve. + +.. figure:: 0204-press_cuffs.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press. + +.. figure:: 0205-tongue.jpg + :align: center + +Prepare also the tongue for the front: with right sides facing +backstitch all around the tongue except for the top, press, trim the +corners and clip the curves, turn inside out and press again. +Make a buttonhole in the tongue. + +Front +^^^^^ + +Cut the vertical and horizontal lines of the slit in the front. + +.. figure:: 0301-folded_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +On both sides, fold the width of the button placket (e.g. 2.5 cm) twice +towards the front. + +.. note:: + + This will show the wrong side of the fabric as the button placket, + and looks just fine with most shirting fabric that has no distinct + right or wrong side. + + If your fabric has a difference and the result doesn't look good, you + can fold the button placket towards the back and hemstitch it in + place instead of applique stitching it. + +Fold the rest of each half of the front in two or three pleats, pointing +outside from the center of the shirt, so that each side measures half +the ``front_gathers_width`` measured from the *center* of the placket +(as the two plackets will be sewn on top of each other). Overlap the +pleats a tiny bit to hide their seams. + +Press everything. + +.. figure:: 0302-sewn_pleats.jpg + :align: center + +Backstitch the pleats by following the crease line. + + +.. figure:: 0303-sewn_plackets.jpg + :align: center + +Hemstitch the *right* placket over the seam of the first pleat, hidden +below the placket itself. Press back the placket flat. + +On just the *left* placket sew two neat lines of backstitches, 4 mm from +each edge. + +Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the bottom +horizontal edge of the slit for the gathers. + +.. figure:: 0304-tongue_and_bands.jpg + :align: center + +Put the tongue at the center bottom of one of the two bands, right sides +together, and backstitch it. + +Press all the sewing allowances of the front bands towards the wrong side. + +.. figure:: 0305-placket_and_gathers.jpg + :align: center + +Put the left placket on top of the right placket and baste it in place. +Pull the gathering threads to the same length, pinning the excess thread +from the wrong side, strike the gathers to make them neater. + +.. figure:: 0306-front_band_applique.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0307-front_band_gathers.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the band with the tongue on top of the right side so that it covers +the slit, applique stitch it on the sides and top edge and hem stitch +the bottom edge over the gathers, catching each gather in a stitch and +sewing to the underside of the tongue when you reach it. + +.. figure:: 0308-back_band_gathers.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the other band to the wrong side of the front and hem stitch it to +the shirt on all four sides, again catching each gather in a stitch, so +that the raw edges of the slit are fully encased. + +.. figure:: 0309-shoulder_pieces.jpg + :align: center + +Place two shoulder piece on top of each other, backstitch the center +seam and press open. Repeat with the two other shoulder pieces. + +.. figure:: 0310-shoulder_piece_position.jpg + :align: center + +Pin half of the collar to one shoulder piece, starting from the back, +then pin them to the front in such a way that the collar ends right on +the placket. Mark the position of the shoulder piece on the front and +remove the collar from the assembly. + +.. figure:: 0311-sewn_shoulder_pieces.jpg + :align: center + +Sandwitch the front between the two shoulder pieces, right sides +together, in the position measured above, and backstitch the two +shoulders. Press up. + +.. note:: + + This isn't the way the shirt was assembled in the original + instructions, where the shoulder piece was attached to the back + first. + + This way you save one seam, and I believe that it also makes it + easier to adjust the armscyes holes to fit. + +Back +^^^^ + +Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 4 mm and 8 mm from the top +edge of the back, starting and ending about 18 cm from the sides. + +.. figure:: 0401-pinned_back.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the center of the back to the center of the shoulder piece, put the +shirt on the intended recipient, pin the front and back sides together +at the sides and adjust the back to find how wide the gathered part +should become and how much material should be cut from the shoulder side +for the armhole. Write this number (``#armhole_width_back``) in case +you want to use this pattern again. + +.. figure:: 0402-sewing_gathered_back.jpg + :align: center + +Place the back on top of the outer layer of the shoulder piece, +backstitch the ungathered sides, press all allowances towards the +shoulder piece. +Pull the gathering thread and hemstitch or applique stitch the shoulder +piece to the back, catching each gather in a stitch. + +.. figure:: 0403-sewing_inner_shoulder_piece.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowance of the lining shoulder piece, hemstitch it to the +back of the shirt. From now on treat the shoulder pieces as one. + +.. figure:: 0404-pinned_collar.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the collar band to the shoulder pieces, right sides +together, backstitch one side of the collar band. + +.. tip: + + While sewing the collar, take special care to cover all raw edges + where the shoulder piece attaches to the front: after pinning the + collar band in place it's probably better to either baste it by hand + and then machine sew it, or sew it directly by hand. + +Press the allowances towards the collar band, fold down and press the +remaining edge of the collar and hemstitch it into place to cover all +raw edges. + +Sleeves +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-allowances_alignment.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, put the gussets on top of their sleeve, aligning +the edge of the gusset one seam allowance from the edge of the sleeve. + +.. figure:: 0502-gusset_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Backstitch the gusset to the sleeve, press the allowance towards the +gusset, fold the sleeve allowance down to cover the raw edges and +hemstitch it to the sleeve. + +.. figure:: 0503-sleeve_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, aligning one side at one +seam allowance from the edge of the other side, backstitch + +.. figure:: 0504-sleeve_trimmed.jpg + :align: center + +Trim a bit around the middle of the arm to smoothen the curve between +the gusset and the sleeve, fold the double allowance down to cover the +raw edge and hemstitch it to the sleeve. Repeat the same with the other +sleeve, taking care do make it symmetrical (i.e. to fell the seam in the +opposite direction). + +.. figure:: 0505-cut_sleeve_slit.jpg + :align: center + +Cut the slit one fourth of the way in, towards the back of the sleeve +(i.e. closest to the hemstitched side), fold down the edges twice and +hem stitch them down. + +.. figure:: 0506-finishing_sleeve_slit.jpg + :align: center + +From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 3 cm wide, cut them on the +diagonal into two triangles each, fold down their edges and sew them to +the top of the slit on both sides, pleating the top so that the slit +edges are adiacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a +hemstitch on the inside. + + +.. figure:: 0507-hemstitching_cuff.jpg + :align: center + + +Run two lines of gathering thread close to the end of the sleeve, gather +it to the length of the cuff. Press down the seaming allowance at the +edge of the cuff and hemstitch it to the right side of sleeve, catching +each gather with a stitch. + +.. figure:: 0507-hemstitching_cuff_wrong_side.jpg + :align: center + +Hemstitch the cuff to the sleeve also on the wrong side, again catching +each gather. + +.. figure:: 0508-button_buttonhole.jpg + :align: center + +Add a button to the smaller side of the cuff and a corresponding +buttonhole to the larger part. + +Assembly of the body +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0601-aligning_hem.jpg + :align: center + +Right sides together, align the back and front so that the back is 8–10 +cm longer than the front at the hem (as decided when cutting) and the +back is one sewing allowance from the front and mark a point 8–10 cm +from the edge of the front: this is where the side seam will end. + +.. figure:: 0602-sleeve_measurement.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0603-armscye_measurement.jpg + :align: center + +Measure the top of the sleeve, measure an armscye hole that is about 2-4 +cm smaller than the sleeve (total circumference) and mark the other end +of the side seam. + +Backstitch the side seams between the points just marked. Fold the +double allowance down to cover the raw edge and hemstitch. + +.. figure:: 0605-hem.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the shirt: fold down the bottom of the front and back twice, +mitering the corners and continuing up to the lower end of the side +seam, and hemstitch. + +.. _1880s_shirt_marking_armscyes: + +.. figure:: 0606-marking_armscye.jpg + :align: center + +Try on the shirt, close the front with pins and mark with chalk a +reasonable line for the armscye on both the front and back of the shirt. + +.. figure:: 0607-basted_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Pin and baste one sleeve to the shirt, right sides facing and with the +sleeve one seam allowance out from the marked edge of the armscye, +starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughtly gathering the +excess of fabric of the sleeve in the shoulder piece. + +Try the shirt on, check the fit, if needed unpick and baste again. + +.. figure:: 0608-tracing_seam_on_paper.jpg + :align: center + +When the result looks good, place the shirt on top of a piece of paper, +aligning the corner and sides, and use a pin or another pointed +implement to prick the paper following the seam line where you basted +for both the front and the back of the shirt. Clean the pin lines and +cut the pattern. + +Mark the points on the sleeve where the shoulder piece starts and end, +save also this measurement on paper, in case you want to make another +shirt in this size. + +.. figure:: 0101-marking_armholes.jpg + :align: center + +Unpick the basted seam, use the paper pattern to mark the sew line on +both sides of the shirt. + +.. figure:: 0609-sleeve_gathering_thread.jpg + :align: center + +Run two lines of gathering thread on the top of the sleeves, between the +points just marked. + +.. tip:: + + Even when doing straight seams by machine, it is probably easier and + quicker to sew the sleeve in by hand, rather than having to baste and + sew it, especially when working with a small sewing allowance. + +.. figure:: 0610-sewing_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Pin the sleeve to the shirt, again right sides facing and with the +edge of the sleeve at two seam allowances from the seam line marked on +the body. + +.. figure:: 0611-sewing_gathered_sleeve.jpg + :align: center + +Starting just below the shoulder piece backstitch the ungathered part of +the shirt, then turn it outside, fold the seam allowance and applique +stitch the top of the sleeve to the shoulder piece, catching each +gather. + +.. figure:: 0612-felling_sleeve_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Trim the raw edge of the front and back, leaving one sewing allowance of +fabric, fold the double seam allowance to cover the raw edge, hemstitch it +towards the body. + +.. note:: + + Rather than sewing and felling the sleeve as the original + instructions suggested, you may get a neater result by french-seaming + it. Cut the shoulder piece with a double seaming allowance (if you + want to change it in the valentian pattern it's after point A and + before point A67) put the sleeve in with wrong sides facing, + backstitch at a bit less than the sewing allowance from the edge, + press; turn the sleeve inside out, right sides facing, backstitch the + straight part at a bit more than the sewing allowance from the + previous seam, turn it right side out and hemstitch the gathered part + catching each gather with a stitch. + +.. figure:: 0613-triangle_patch.jpg + :align: center + +From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 5 cm wide, cut them in half on +the diagonal, fold down their edges and sew them as small gussets to the +bottom of the side seams on both sides, using an applique stitch on the +outside and a hemstitch on the inside. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0701-buttons_buttonholes.jpg + :align: center + +Put a button and buttonhole on the collar band, and at least two more +button and buttonholes on the front placket. + +Done! you can now wear your new shirt, and start making the rest of the +half dozen :) + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: shirt_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: shirt_back.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: full_shirt_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: full_shirt_back.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: ../../../historical_womenswear/skirts/1892_foundation_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg + :align: center + + The first version of the shirt, in powder blue cotton (with too small + cuffs and misplaced buttons). |