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Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt')
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst | 35 |
1 files changed, 18 insertions, 17 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst index 96c4db9..5dcfee7 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst @@ -25,8 +25,8 @@ you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front opening and especially collar and cuffs for each era. I believe that the original instructions assumed that this shirt would -be hand sewn in the home, but by the 1880s sewing machines in the home -were most definitely a thing (and is mentioned in a later chapter of the +be hand sewn, but by the 1880s sewing machines in the home were most +definitely a thing (and they are mentioned in a later chapter of the book). If you want to use a machine, your options are to sew by machine @@ -65,25 +65,26 @@ Measurements You need to take the following measurements: ``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18) - ; + vertical distance from the back of the neck to the knee; ``neck_circ`` (G02) - ; + circumference of the neck; ``bust_circ`` (G04) - ; + circumference of the torso, just below the armholes; ``neck_front_to_waist_f`` (H01) - ; + vertical distance from the front of the neck to the waist; ``neck_side_to_waist_f`` (H05) - ; + vertical distance from the side of the neck to the waist in the + front; ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19) - ; + vertical distance from the back of the neck to the waist; ``shoulder_length`` (I01) - ; + distance from the side of the neck to the tip of the shoulder; ``shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b`` (I07) - ; + distance from one shoulder tip to the other one; ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L01) - ; + distance from the shoulder tip to the wrist, following a bent arm; ``arm_wrist_circ`` (L15) - ; + circumference of the wrist; refer to the diagram in Valentina Tape for how to take them, and the file :download:`shirt.vit` is used by default by the pattern file and @@ -221,8 +222,8 @@ seaming allowance. If the fabric is non-directional and has no right and wrong side, the best way to cut the sleeves is as described on the book: fold the rectangle in such a way that the sides will meet precisely in the center -and bast them together, then fold them in such a way that the distance a -– g and h – c is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of +and baste them together, then fold them in such a way that the distance +a – g and h – c is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of fabric along the fold. .. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg @@ -281,9 +282,9 @@ Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press. .. figure:: 0203-sew_cuffs.jpg :align: center -Put two cuff pieces right sides together with the interfacing on top, -backstitch the sides and front (the shorter base of the trapezium), -leaving the other base free to attach it to the sleeve. +Put two cuff pieces right sides together (with the optional interfacing +on top), backstitch the sides and front (the shorter base of the +trapezium), leaving the other base free to attach it to the sleeve. .. figure:: 0204-press_cuffs.jpg :align: center |