diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt')
11 files changed, 44 insertions, 13 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0401-pinned_back.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0401-pinned_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3109851 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0401-pinned_back.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0402-sewing_gathered_back.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0402-sewing_gathered_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..67a842d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0402-sewing_gathered_back.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0404-pinned_collar.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0404-pinned_collar.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..60915ce --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0404-pinned_collar.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0501-allowances_alignment.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0501-allowances_alignment.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5f58b92 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0501-allowances_alignment.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0502-gusset_sewn.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0502-gusset_sewn.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9eafbef --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0502-gusset_sewn.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0503-sleeve_seam.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0503-sleeve_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4e213d6 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0503-sleeve_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0504-sleeve_trimmed.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0504-sleeve_trimmed.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1f8b40f --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0504-sleeve_trimmed.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0505-cut_sleeve_slit.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0505-cut_sleeve_slit.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..398c2bd --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0505-cut_sleeve_slit.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0506-finishing_sleeve_slit.jpg b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0506-finishing_sleeve_slit.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..01280e7 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/0506-finishing_sleeve_slit.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val index 02b3302..2bb040d 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/1880_shirt.val @@ -167,7 +167,7 @@ treasury…</company> <spline aScale="0" angle1="230" angle2="180" color="black" id="222" length1="5" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="221" point4="76" type="simpleInteractive"/> <point firstPoint="212" id="223" length="1" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A67" secondPoint="78" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="AngleLine_A21_A22 + 90" color="black" id="224" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="1" point4="223" type="simpleInteractive"/> - <point firstPoint="102" id="229" length="CurrentLength/3" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A68" secondPoint="103" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="102" id="229" length="CurrentLength/4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A68" secondPoint="103" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> <point angle="0" firstPoint="229" id="230" length="#sleeve_slit" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A69" secondPoint="102" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/> </calculation> <modeling> diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst index beb8097..b270b6c 100644 --- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst @@ -414,6 +414,9 @@ Back Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 4 mm and 8 mm from the top edge of the back, starting and ending about 18 cm from the sides. +.. figure:: 0401-pinned_back.jpg + :align: center + Pin the center of the back to the center of the shoulder piece, put the shirt on the intended recipient, pin the front and back sides together at the sides and adjust the back to find how wide the gathered part @@ -421,15 +424,24 @@ should become and how much material should be cut from the shoulder side for the armhole. Write this number (``#armhole_width_back``) in case you want to use this pattern again. +.. figure:: 0402-sewing_gathered_back.jpg + :align: center + Place the back on top of the outer layer of the shoulder piece, -backstitch the ungathered sides, press the allowance towards the -shoulder piece. Press also the allowance of the same shoulder piece, -pull the gathering thread and hemstitch or applique stitch the shoulder +backstitch the ungathered sides, press all allowances towards the +shoulder piece. +Pull the gathering thread and hemstitch or applique stitch the shoulder piece to the back, catching each gather in a stitch. +.. figure:: 0403-sewing_inner_shoulder_piece.jpt + :align: center + Press the allowance of the lining shoulder piece, hemstitch it to the back of the shirt. From now on treat the shoulder pieces as one. +.. figure:: 0404-pinned_collar.jpg + :align: center + Pin the collar band to the shoulder pieces, right sides together, backstitch one side of the collar band. @@ -447,24 +459,43 @@ raw edges. Sleeves ^^^^^^^ +.. figure:: 0501-allowances_alignment.jpg + :align: center + Right sides together, put the gussets on top of their sleeve, aligning the edge of the gusset one seam allowance from the edge of the sleeve. +.. figure:: 0502-gusset_sewn.jpg + :align: center + Backstitch the gusset to the sleeve, press the allowance towards the gusset, fold the sleeve allowance down to cover the raw edges and hemstitch it to the sleeve. -Trim a bit around the middle of the arm to smoothen the curve between -the gusset and the sleeve. +.. figure:: 0503-sleeve_seam.jpg + :align: center Fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, aligning one side at one -seam allowance from the edge of the other side, backstitch, fold the -double allowance down to cover the raw edge and hemstitch it to the -sleeve. Repeat the same with the other sleeve, taking care do make it -symmetrical (i.e. to fell the seam in the opposite direction). +seam allowance from the edge of the other side, backstitch -Cut the slit one fourth of the way in, towards the backof the sleeve, -fold down the edges twice and hem stitch them down. +.. figure:: 0504-sleeve_trimmed.jpg + :align: center + +Trim a bit around the middle of the arm to smoothen the curve between +the gusset and the sleeve, fold the double allowance down to cover the +raw edge and hemstitch it to the sleeve. Repeat the same with the other +sleeve, taking care do make it symmetrical (i.e. to fell the seam in the +opposite direction). + +.. figure:: 0505-cut_sleeve_slit.jpg + :align: center + +Cut the slit one fourth of the way in, towards the back of the sleeve +(i.e. closest to the hemstitched side), fold down the edges twice and +hem stitch them down. + +.. figure:: 0506-finishing_sleeve_slit.jpg + :align: center From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 3 cm wide, cut them on the diagonal into two triangles each, fold down their edges and sew them to @@ -476,7 +507,7 @@ Run two lines of gathering thread close to the end of the sleeve, gather it to the length of the cuff. Press down the seaming allowance at the edge of the cuff and hemstitch it to the right side of sleeve, catching each gather with a stitch. Hemstitch the cuff to the sleeve also on the -wrong side. +wrong side, again catching each gather. Assembly of the body ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ |
