diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods')
| -rw-r--r-- | source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val | 270 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst | 16 |
2 files changed, 286 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0ea632e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val @@ -0,0 +1,270 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Basic Jeans</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="MM-dd-yyyy" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="leg circumference: %finalMeasurement_hem_circ% cm"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="waist: %finalMeasurement_waist_circ% cm at %finalMeasurement_waist_position% cm from waist"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <finalMeasurements> + <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_position" name="waist_position"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#waist_circ" name="waist_circ"/> + <finalMeasurment formula="#jeans_bottom_width * 2" name="hem_circ"/> + </finalMeasurements> + <measurements path="aldrich.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="distance from the natural waist to the waist of the trousers" formula="5" name="#waist_position"/> + <increment description="circumference of the waist *of the trousers*" formula="highhip_circ" name="#waist_circ"/> + <increment formula="19" name="#jeans_bottom_width"/> + <increment description="3.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 3.5 cm otherwise" formula="3.25" name="#front_curve_distance"/> + <increment description="4.5 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4.75 cm otherwise" formula="4.5" name="#back_curve_distance"/> + <increment description="5 or 6 cm" formula="5" name="#crutch_ease"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="jeans"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="rise_length_side - #waist_position" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="height_waist_side_to_hip - #waist_position" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="4" length="height_waist_back - #waist_position" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A3" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="2" id="5" length="CurrentLength/2 - #waist_position / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.124128" name="A4" secondPoint="4" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="2" id="6" length="hip_circ / 12" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A5" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="6" id="7" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A6" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="6" id="8" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A7" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/> + <point firstPoint="7" id="9" length="hip_circ / 4 - 0.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="6" id="10" length="- (hip_circ / 16 - 0.5)" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A9" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="8" id="11" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A10" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="180" center="6" color="cornflowerblue" id="12" penStyle="hair" radius="#front_curve_distance" type="simple"/> + <line firstPoint="11" id="13" lineColor="black" secondPoint="7" typeLine="hair"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="10" angle2="AngleLine_A10_A6" color="black" id="14" length1="3" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="10" point4="7" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point firstPoint="11" id="15" length="#waist_circ / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A11" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" 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name="A19" secondPoint="50" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="50" id="52" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="0.362214" my="-1.751" name="A20" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="90" basePoint="52" id="53" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="-2.95723" my="-1.84863" name="A21" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="350" angle2="360" center="53" color="violet" id="54" penStyle="hair" radius="#waist_circ / 4 + 1.5" type="simple"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="1" curve="54" id="55" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A22" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="10" id="58" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="-2.76197" my="-1.36048" name="A23" secondPoint="6" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="58" id="59" length="0.5" lineColor="black" mx="-2.66434" 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point1="70" point4="59" type="simpleInteractive"/> + <point firstPoint="53" id="73" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="-0.321201" my="-2.33678" name="A30" secondPoint="55" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" firstPoint="73" id="74" length="6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A31" secondPoint="53" showLabel="true" type="normal" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="73" id="75" length="0.75" lineColor="black" mx="-2.27381" my="-2.14152" name="A32" secondPoint="53" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="73" id="76" length="-CurrentLength" lineColor="black" mx="1.53378" my="-2.04389" name="A33" secondPoint="75" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="180" basePoint="3" curve="62" id="103" lineColor="black" mx="1.04563" my="-2.14152" name="A34" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <operation angle="-asinD(#crutch_ease/Line_A17_A25)" 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type="simpleInteractive"/> + <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="80" color="black" id="120" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="112" point4="63" type="simpleInteractive"/> + </calculation> + <modeling> + <point id="26" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="27" idObject="15" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="28" idObject="18" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="29" idObject="9" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="30" idObject="23" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="31" idObject="19" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="32" idObject="16" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="33" idObject="20" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" 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inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="44" idObject="4" inUse="false" type="pin"/> + <point id="45" idObject="7" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="46" idObject="9" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="47" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="hipline" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="45" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="46" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <point id="80" idObject="63" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="81" idObject="68" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="82" idObject="65" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="83" idObject="64" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="84" idObject="69" inUse="false" 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my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="101" idObject="65" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="102" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="knee_line" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="100" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="101" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + <spline id="116" idObject="115" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="118" idObject="107" inUse="false" mx="-2.95723" my="-1.84863" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="119" idObject="112" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="121" idObject="120" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="122" idObject="106" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="123" idObject="108" inUse="false" mx="-2.27381" my="-2.14152" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="124" idObject="111" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="125" idObject="110" inUse="false" mx="1.53378" my="-2.04389" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="126" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1"> + <nodes> + <node idObject="123" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="124" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="125" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + </path> + </modeling> + <details> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="39" mx="0" my="0" name="front" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{aca767c9-bc8e-4412-8050-3ab799c177a2}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="A" mx="30.5852" my="1018.68" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="26.6224" my="642.636" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="44" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="43" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="26" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="27" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="28" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="29" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="30" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="31" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="32" type="NodePoint"/> + <node before="CurrentSeamAllowance " idObject="33" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="34" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="35" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="36" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="37" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="38" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="42"/> + <record path="47"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>43</record> + <record>44</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="90" mx="41.2065" my="-0.419404" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{d7421c46-845c-4ec6-825a-830838baea80}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance"> + <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="10" letter="B" mx="31.703" my="1030.35" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="10"> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="35.6659" my="645.948" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="92" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="91" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="118" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="119" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="121" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="80" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="81" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="82" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="83" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="84" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="85" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="86" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="116" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="122" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="99"/> + <record path="102"/> + <record path="126"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>91</record> + <record>92</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups> + <group id="113" name="crutch_ease" tool="104" visible="true"> + <item tool="51"/> + <item tool="53"/> + <item tool="55"/> + <item tool="73"/> + <item tool="74"/> + <item tool="75"/> + <item tool="76"/> + <item tool="103"/> + </group> + </groups> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst index 2cdd67a..f9262dd 100644 --- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst +++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/drafting_methods/aldrich/index.rst @@ -61,6 +61,18 @@ to take these measurements on somebody. Blocks ------ +.. _aldrich_block_close_fitting_trouser_jeans: + +Close fitting trouser/jeans block +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Page 54, 55. + +* :download:`close_fitting_trouser_jeans_block.val` + + +.. _aldrich_block_basic_tee_shirt: + Basic tee shirt ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ @@ -68,6 +80,8 @@ Page 186, 187. * :download:`basic_tee_shirt_block.val` +.. _aldrich_block_easy_fitting_tee_shirt: + Easy fitting tee shirt ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ @@ -75,6 +89,8 @@ Page 186, 187. * :download:`easy_fitting_tee_shirt_block.val` +.. _aldrich_block_tracksuit_fleece_jacket: + Tracksuit / fleece jacket block ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ |