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Diffstat (limited to 'source/accessories')
| -rw-r--r-- | source/accessories/bags/index.rst | 1 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst | 145 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg | bin | 0 -> 1251945 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg | bin | 0 -> 1487794 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf | bin | 0 -> 339303 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg | 256 |
6 files changed, 402 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/index.rst index c8185a8..f85f7fa 100644 --- a/source/accessories/bags/index.rst +++ b/source/accessories/bags/index.rst @@ -8,3 +8,4 @@ drawstring_backpack/index modular_backpack_base/index + pair_of_pockets/index diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0630697 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,145 @@ +Pair of Pockets +=============== + +.. figure:: pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg + :align: center + +In the 18th and parts of the 19th century, pockets for women were an +accessory not attached to any garment, but tied around the waist and +worn under the skirt (the more modest and privacy-respecting way) or on +top of it (for convenience, usually done just by the working classes). + +Beside being significantly bigger than what is usually found in modern +womenswear clothing (but not necessarily the ones found in the +ones from the 19th century), they have the advantage of not letting the +weight of the contents hang from the fabric of a garment, and thus they +are a good match to ligtweight skirts or ones made from knit fabric. + +Or, since it's the 2020s and there is no sense of decency anymore :D one +can wear them on top of a pair of jeans, visible to anybody. + +Historical pockets were quite diverse: a good overview of their history +is in :cite:`2019:pocket` (or a very short version in +:cite:`2021:vampockets`), and an internet search will get you lots of +historical examples to reproduce or take inspiration from, as well as +people who made their own pockets and publish instructions, some of +which are listed in the :ref:`pockets_see_also` section. + +This is just one way to make a pair of pockets which works and is easy +enough to do; if you are so inclined the rabbit hole of historical +construction methods can offer you many hours of research and making. + +I sew most of my pockets by hand, as it is a quick and easy project, +but machine sewing is also an option, especially for more modern +variants. To sew by machine, lockstitch where the instructions say to +backstitch, and topstitch instead of hem/applique-stitching. + +Materials +--------- + +* Fabric: about 40 cm of strong cotton or linen; +* optional, about 40 cm of dense cotton or linen for a lining; +* 2.4 m edge binding (bias or straight); +* 1.5 m tape; +* sewing thread. + +This is of course a great way to use scraps and leftovers, and if you +don't have enough fabric to make a pair there are plenty of historical +examples of single pockets mounted on a tape of their own. + +Pattern +------- + +The pattern for these pockets is a vaguely pear shaped bag with a slit +in the top half of the front, often more than 40 cm deep. If you're not +reproducing an existing pocket you may want to download my own pattern, +which has the width and height of a B4 sheet and is on the smaller end +of typical historical sizes: + +:download:`pockets_B4.svg` + SVG source, can be scaled to taste; +:download:`pockets_B4-A4.pdf` + PDF, tiled on two A4 sheet; + +Instructions +------------ + +If you want to make embroidered pockets it's easiest to do on the fabric +before cutting it: mark the outline and slit of the pocket and embroider +leaving a clear space around those markings of half the width of your +binding. + +Cut the pattern four times in your fabric. If you need to protect the +back of the fabric (e.g. because it is embroidered and the contents may +catch on it) also cut the pattern four times in lining. + +If using a lining, lay it on the wrong side of each panel, baste it and +from now on treat as one. + +Cut the slit on two of the panels, bind both sides. + +If your binding has raw edges, align one raw edge of the binding to the +raw edge of the slit, right sides together, backstitch on the fold of +the binding, press towards the wrong side and hemstitch down. + +If your binding is a tape with finished edges, fold it in half, pin it +over the raw edge of the slit, applique stitch on the right side and +then hemstitch the wrong side. + +Cut four small patches from the scraps of fabric, fold their edges +towards the wrong side and sew it at the end of the slit on both sides +to reinforce the weak point, applique stitching to the rigth side and +hemstitching to the wrong. + +Put one panel with a slit on top of a panel with no slit, wrong sides +together, backstitch all around it at 5 mm from the edge. + +Bind the side and bottom edges using the same tecnique used for the +slit. + +Cut a piece of tape long enough to go around the waist and be tied, pin +the top edge of the two pockets on top of it so that they are +symmetrical and lie at the right position for the slits in your skirts. + +.. tip:: + If you're making more than one pair of pockets, put them at different + distances from the front, so that you can choose the ones that fit + better with the line of each skirt you're wearing. + +Hemstitch the tape to the pocket at the bottom edge of the tape. + +Put another piece of tape on top of just the front of each pocket, +folding down the raw edges, applique stitch it to the pocket and to the +tape at the sides; whipstitch the two tapes at the top, enclosing the +raw edge of the pocket. + +Fold down the ends of the long tape, hemstitch them down to finish even +these raw edges. + +Your pair of pockets is done! + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg + :align: center + +.. _pockets_see_also: + +See Also +-------- + +In the 2020s, pockets are IN, at least in the online sewing community: +this is a small selection of people who made their own pockets. + +* `Make your own Pocket (Victoria and Albert Museum) + <http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/m/make-your-own-pocket/>`_ +* `Pair of pockets (Miss Hendrie's Workbook) + <http://misshendrie.blogspot.com/2014/11/pair-of-pockets.html>`_ +* `Making an Embroidered Pocket (Tea in a Teacup) + <https://teainateacup.wordpress.com/2015/10/21/making-an-embroidered-pocket/>`_ +* `If they can't fit pockets in our clothes, we'll bring back POCKETS AS + FASHION (Bernadette Banners) + <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phFUTqoW5B8>`_ +* `Linen pocket (Josefin Waltin spinner) + <https://waltin.se/josefinwaltinspinner/linen-pocket/>`_ diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d5f034a --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_cats.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7617443 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pair_of_pockets_patterned_cotton.jpg diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8e10997 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4-A4.pdf diff --git a/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4368721 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/pockets_B4.svg @@ -0,0 +1,256 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" standalone="no"?> +<!-- Created with Inkscape (http://www.inkscape.org/) --> + +<svg + width="250mm" + height="353mm" + viewBox="0 0 250 353" + version="1.1" + id="svg8" + inkscape:version="1.1.1 (3bf5ae0d25, 2021-09-20)" + sodipodi:docname="pockets_B4.svg" + xmlns:inkscape="http://www.inkscape.org/namespaces/inkscape" + xmlns:sodipodi="http://sodipodi.sourceforge.net/DTD/sodipodi-0.dtd" + xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" + xmlns:svg="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" + xmlns:rdf="http://www.w3.org/1999/02/22-rdf-syntax-ns#" + xmlns:cc="http://creativecommons.org/ns#" + xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"> + <title + id="title852">Pair of Pockets</title> + <defs + id="defs2" /> + <sodipodi:namedview + id="base" + pagecolor="#ffffff" + bordercolor="#666666" + borderopacity="1.0" + inkscape:pageopacity="0.0" + inkscape:pageshadow="2" + inkscape:zoom="1.3504346" + 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</sodipodi:namedview> + <metadata + id="metadata5"> + <rdf:RDF> + <cc:Work + rdf:about=""> + <dc:format>image/svg+xml</dc:format> + <dc:type + rdf:resource="http://purl.org/dc/dcmitype/StillImage" /> + <dc:title>Pair of Pockets</dc:title> + <cc:license + rdf:resource="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/" /> + <dc:date>2018-07-04</dc:date> + <dc:creator> + <cc:Agent> + <dc:title>Elena ``of Valhalla''</dc:title> + </cc:Agent> + </dc:creator> + </cc:Work> + <cc:License + rdf:about="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"> + <cc:permits + rdf:resource="http://creativecommons.org/ns#Reproduction" /> + <cc:permits + rdf:resource="http://creativecommons.org/ns#Distribution" /> + <cc:requires + rdf:resource="http://creativecommons.org/ns#Notice" /> + <cc:requires + rdf:resource="http://creativecommons.org/ns#Attribution" /> + <cc:permits + rdf:resource="http://creativecommons.org/ns#DerivativeWorks" /> + <cc:requires + rdf:resource="http://creativecommons.org/ns#ShareAlike" /> + </cc:License> + </rdf:RDF> + </metadata> + <g + inkscape:label="Layer 1" + inkscape:groupmode="layer" + id="layer1" + transform="translate(0,56)"> + <g + id="g1597"> + <rect + ry="4.8319534e-06" + y="112" + x="25" + height="100" + width="100" + id="rect4576" + style="opacity:1;fill:none;fill-opacity:0;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:0.26458332;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-dashoffset:0;stroke-opacity:1" /> + <text + id="text4582" + y="121.95498" + x="75" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:7.76111px;line-height:6.61458px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic, Normal';font-variant-ligatures:normal;font-variant-caps:normal;font-variant-numeric:normal;font-feature-settings:normal;text-align:center;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.264583px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + xml:space="preserve"><tspan + style="stroke-width:0.264583px" + y="121.95498" + x="75" + id="tspan4580" + sodipodi:role="line">Pair of Pockets</tspan></text> + <text + id="text848" + y="204.3542" + x="30.000002" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:2.82222px;line-height:2.64583px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic, Normal';font-variant-ligatures:normal;font-variant-caps:normal;font-variant-numeric:normal;font-feature-settings:normal;text-align:start;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:start;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.264583px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + xml:space="preserve"><tspan + style="text-align:start;text-anchor:start;stroke-width:0.264583px" + y="204.3542" + x="30.000002" + id="tspan846" + sodipodi:role="line">This square should be 10 cm on all sides to make B4 sized pockets,</tspan><tspan + style="text-align:start;text-anchor:start;stroke-width:0.264583px" + y="207.00003" + x="30.000002" + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan1553">or 8.4 cm for an A4 sized one.</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:4.23333px;line-height:0;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:center;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:middle;fill:none;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:0.265;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-opacity:1" + x="30" + y="129" + id="text12472"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan12470" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:4.23333px;line-height:4.2443px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:start;text-anchor:start;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.265;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" + x="30" + y="130.04149">Embroider fabric to taste, keeping at least 1 cm</tspan><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:4.23333px;line-height:2.59292px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:start;text-anchor:start;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.265;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" + x="30" + y="136.05302" + id="tspan12474">inside the outline</tspan><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:4.23333px;line-height:2.59292px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:start;text-anchor:start;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.265;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" + x="30" + y="141.23886" + id="tspan12476">Cut 2 of fabric</tspan><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:4.23333px;line-height:2.59292px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:start;text-anchor:start;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.265;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" + x="30" + y="146.4247" + id="tspan12478">If embroidering, cut 2 of lining, lay on the back of</tspan><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:4.23333px;line-height:2.59292px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:start;text-anchor:start;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.265;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" + x="30" + y="151.61053" + id="tspan12480">the embroidered panels and treat as one.</tspan><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:4.23333px;line-height:2.59292px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:start;text-anchor:start;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.265;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" + x="30" + y="156.79639" + id="tspan12482">(Or cheat, and use sturdy prints.)</tspan><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:4.23333px;line-height:2.59292px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:start;text-anchor:start;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.265;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" + x="30" + y="161.98222" + id="tspan12484">Cut the opening as marked from the front panel.</tspan><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:4.23333px;line-height:2.59292px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:start;text-anchor:start;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.265;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" + x="30" + y="167.16806" + id="tspan12486">Lay the two panels with wrong sides together,</tspan><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:4.23333px;line-height:2.59292px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:start;text-anchor:start;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.265;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" + x="30" + y="172.3539" + id="tspan12488">sew all around 5 mm from the edge.</tspan><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:4.23333px;line-height:2.59292px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:start;text-anchor:start;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.265;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" + x="30" + y="177.53973" + id="tspan12490">Cover the raw edges of the sides, bottom and</tspan><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:4.23333px;line-height:2.59292px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:start;text-anchor:start;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.265;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" + x="30" + y="182.72559" + id="tspan12492">opening with tape or ribbon.</tspan><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:4.23333px;line-height:2.59292px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:start;text-anchor:start;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.265;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" + x="30" + y="187.91142" + id="tspan12494">Repeat for the second pocket.</tspan><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:4.23333px;line-height:2.59292px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:start;text-anchor:start;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.265;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" + x="30" + y="193.09726" + id="tspan12496">Cover the top edges of both pockets with a tape</tspan><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:4.23333px;line-height:2.59292px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic';text-align:start;text-anchor:start;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.265;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" + x="30" + y="195.69019" + id="tspan12498">long enough to go around your waist and be tied.</tspan></text> + </g> + <g + id="g1520"> + <path + sodipodi:nodetypes="cssccssc" + inkscape:connector-curvature="0" + id="path838" + d="m 125,296.99999 c 0,0 0,-3e-5 -85.000001,0 C 20,297 0,277 0,256.99999 0,112 25,-56.000003 25,-56.000003 h 200 c 0,0 25,168.000003 25,312.999993 0,20.00001 -20,40 -40,40 -85,10e-6 -85,0 -85,0" + style="fill:none;fill-rule:evenodd;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:0.26458333;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" /> + <path + sodipodi:nodetypes="cc" + inkscape:connector-curvature="0" + id="path842" + d="m 125,96.999996 0,-152.999999" + style="fill:none;fill-rule:evenodd;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:0.26458333;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1;stroke-miterlimit:4;stroke-dasharray:none" /> + <text + transform="rotate(-90)" + id="text856" + y="123.27408" + x="8.8273668" + style="font-style:normal;font-variant:normal;font-weight:normal;font-stretch:normal;font-size:4.23333px;line-height:6.61458px;font-family:'Gentium Basic';-inkscape-font-specification:'Gentium Basic, Normal';font-variant-ligatures:normal;font-variant-caps:normal;font-variant-numeric:normal;font-feature-settings:normal;text-align:center;letter-spacing:0px;word-spacing:0px;writing-mode:lr-tb;text-anchor:middle;fill:#000000;fill-opacity:1;stroke:none;stroke-width:0.264583px;stroke-linecap:butt;stroke-linejoin:miter;stroke-opacity:1" + xml:space="preserve"><tspan + style="stroke-width:0.264583px" + y="123.27408" + x="8.8273668" + id="tspan854" + sodipodi:role="line">front opening</tspan></text> + </g> + </g> +</svg> |
