diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'source')
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst | 81 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val | 294 |
2 files changed, 279 insertions, 96 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst index b26a373..183abbe 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/index.rst @@ -10,15 +10,16 @@ more urban ones, I have striven to reproduce the general look, as seen in artwork and some limited pictures of few folk-wear garments from various parts of Europe. -I consulted :cite:`2018:friendship`, which suggests a shape based mostly -on straight lines (other than the armscye), but for ease of getting a -parametric pattern I decided to go for a slightly more fitted design, -starting from the vest pattern in :cite:`1892:cutters`, changing it to -have just one dart and of course a different neckline. +There are two variants for the pattern: one is a more fitted design +based on :cite:`1892:cutters`, not historically accurate except possibly +as a costume made by a middle class person of the later Victorian age; +the “simpler” variant attempts to be closer to the 18-th century bodice +pattern in :cite:`2018:friendship`, which uses straighter lines and +moves the side seam towards the back. -This of course means that this pattern is not in any way accurate to -reproduce an actual historical garment, except possibly one made as -costume by a middle class person of the later Victorian age. +The “simpler” front can be used with the base back by cutting it at the +dotted line (plus seam allowance), moving the side seam forwards to the +side. For the construction, I was inspired by the methods used e.g. in 18th century stays, with fully finished panels whipstitched together with @@ -29,7 +30,7 @@ assembly method is also perfectly feasible. The front is reinforced with two lines of cording at the center front, near the lacing eyelets; plastic whalebone boning could also be used, or -additional cording for more support. +additional cording added between the fabric and lining for more support. Materials --------- @@ -94,6 +95,14 @@ table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. ease to add to the bust and waist measurements, it should be only just enough to account for the bulk of the chemise or other underwear; +``waist_ease`` + ease to add to the waist measurements for the simpler pattern: it can + be a bit more than the bust ease to have a less dramatic angle at the + sides; +``side_seam_displacement_armhole`` + how far back the side seam should be at the armhole; +``side_seam_displacement_waist`` + how far back the side seam should be at the waist; ``sewing_allowance`` e.g. 1 cm, as it only needs to be folded down: the allowance at the side seam is already double this amount to allow for alterations; @@ -114,12 +123,14 @@ sewing allowance on the center front edge. .. figure:: 0101-back_dart.jpg :align: center - instead of cutting two backs, you may put the pattern in such a + .. figure:: 0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg + :align: center + + Instead of cutting two backs, you may put the pattern in such a way that the back lies on a fold, parallel to the grainline, and sew the excess fabric in a big dart, pressing it open. - .. figure:: 0102-back_dart_pressed.jpg - :align: center + The simpler back can also be cut simply on a fold, with no dart. Note that the seaming allowance is 1 cm on all sides except for the @@ -133,9 +144,10 @@ Fronts .. figure:: 0201-dart_fabric.jpg :align: center -Sew the darts with a running backstitch on both the fabric and the -lining, press the ones on the fabric towards the side, and the ones on -the lining towards the center front to reduce bulk. +If present on the pattern, sew the darts with a running backstitch on +both the fabric and the lining, press the ones on the fabric towards the +side, and the ones on the lining towards the center front to reduce +bulk. .. figure:: 0202-pressed_edges.jpg :align: center @@ -174,6 +186,10 @@ wrong side by the corresponding sewing allowance, mitering the corners. Press all edges of the lining towards the wrong side by 2-3 mm more than the sewing allowance, mitering the corners. +.. note:: if the outer fabric isn't structurally stable, only press the + edges of the lining half a mm more than the sewing allowance, and + make sure to catch it in the seam when assembling the garment. + .. figure:: 0302-hemstitching_lining_to_back.jpg :align: center @@ -230,12 +246,43 @@ Repeat with the other half of the bodice. And finally, put the two back right sides together, and whipstitch the center back seam, again with a well waxed doubled or quadrupled thread. -.. +Variants +-------- + +Back or Side Lacing +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +To move the opening to the back or to the sides, cut the fronts with a +regular 1 cm allowance, and cut the 5 cm allowance on the fabric and no +allowance on the lining on the seam that will have the opening. + +Proceed to work the cording and eyelets on that seam as per the +instructions above. + +Pieced Shoulders +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +To cut the fabric more efficiently, the shoulder straps can be pieced on +either the outer fabric, the lining or both. + +To do so cut the pattern on the dashed line, adding 1 cm sewing +allowance to both parts. + +Then, if piecing only one of the two parts, sew the shoulder strap to +the main front with a backstitch, press open and sew the lining to the +main fabric as per the instructions above. + +If piecing both the fabric and the lining, finish the shoulder straps +separately from the fronts by folding under the allowances and +hemstitching the lining to the fabric, and then whipstitch the shoulder +straps to the fronts as the first assembly step. - Gallery +.. Gallery ------- See Also -------- * https://www.sewhistorically.com/how-to-sew-a-historical-peasant-bodice/ + for machine sewing instructions that could probably be used with this + pattern. diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val index 6a6580e..deec9dd 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/bodices/peasant_bodice/peasant_bodice.val @@ -25,6 +25,9 @@ <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/> <increment formula="6" name="#distance_dart_center_front"/> <increment formula="4" name="#ease"/> + <increment formula="#ease + 2" name="#waist_ease"/> + <increment formula="5" name="#side_seam_displacement_armhole"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#side_seam_displacement_waist"/> <increment formula="1" name="#sewing_allowance"/> </increments> <previewCalculations/> @@ -41,16 +44,16 @@ <arc aScale="0" angle1="-50" angle2="-50" center="6" color="violet" id="9" penStyle="hair" radius="armfold_to_armfold_bust / 4 + 1.25" type="simple"/> <point crossPoint="1" firstArc="8" id="10" mx="-0.0270999" my="-2.42273" name="AOS" secondArc="9" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/> <point angle="0" basePoint="7" id="11" length="bust_circ / 4 + #ease / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" name="AO" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> - <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="12" length="waist_circ / 4 + #ease / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.760082" my="-0.428956" name="A9q" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="12" length="waist_circ / 4 + #ease / 4" lineColor="black" mx="0.760082" my="-0.514931" name="A9q" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="180 + 30" color="black" 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