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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst index dec05d9..feab22a 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst @@ -23,6 +23,8 @@ these blocks and the patterns derived from them. Instructions on how to take them are on the pages listed of the book itself. +.. _cutters_jackets: + Jackets, Ulsters, Bodices, Habits, Dolmands &c. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst index dd4ddf8..3cd3947 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/index.rst @@ -11,5 +11,6 @@ considered womenswear. :caption: Contents: skirts/index + underwear/index accessories/index drafting_methods/index diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0201-center_front_cut.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0201-center_front_cut.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8709ed4 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/0201-center_front_cut.jpg diff --git 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a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_back.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_back.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..65a7373 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_back.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0a86cea --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val @@ -0,0 +1,529 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternName>Corset cover + petticoat</patternName> + <patternNumber/> + <company/> + <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss"> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="full length of the garment, excluding the ruffle" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + height_waist_back - 50" name="#full_length"/> + <increment description="distance between the back of the neck and the bottom of the shoulder" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b / 6" name="#shoulder_line"/> + <increment description="distance between waist and hips. wasn't measured, but a standard used, in the book" formula="18" name="#waist_to_hips"/> + <increment formula="1.5" name="#ease"/> + <increment description="waist suppression in the back and sides: usually 2.5 cm, but up to 3 or even 4 cm for tight-laced waists." formula="2.5" name="#waist_suppression"/> + <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#stand_width"/> + <increment description="depth of the front opening, from the neckline" formula="neck_back_to_waist_b + #waist_to_hips / 2" name="#front_opening"/> + <increment formula="200" name="#hem_circumference"/> + <increment formula="20" name="#ruffle_height"/> + <increment formula="2.5" name="#ruffle_density"/> + <increment formula="5" name="#sleeve_ruffle_height"/> + <increment formula="1.5" name="#sleeve_ruffle_density"/> + <increment description="distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, in front" formula="12" name="#neckline_depth_front"/> + <increment description="full width of the neckline" formula="24" name="#neckline_width"/> + <increment description="distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, on the back" formula="4" name="#neckline_depth_back"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#seam_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_waist_b + #waist_to_hips" lineColor="black" mx="-3.90035" my="-0.774514" name="A22h" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="#shoulder_line" lineColor="black" mx="-5.98282" 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<grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="377" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="375" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node before="#seam_allowance" idObject="334" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="335" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="336" type="NodePoint"/> + <node after="#seam_allowance" idObject="337" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>375</record> + <record>377</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_front.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f7cbb59 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/combinations_front.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8f11158 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,408 @@ +Combinations Corset Cover and Petticoat +======================================= + +.. figure:: combinations_front.jpg + :align: center + +.. only:: html + + .. contents:: + +This combinations corset cover and petticoat, or princess petticoat, is +suitable under the A-line skirts of the late Victorian and early +Edwardian eras. + +For historybounding it's of course also suitable as a sundress, and +would probably look nice in a 1970s does edwardian style. + +Since this is either underwear or modern clothing, I've given +instructions for flat felled seams that are topstitched by machine; of +course hemstitching the allowances by hand is always an option. + +Materials +--------- + +Fabric +^^^^^^ + +* About 3 m of lightweight cotton or linen. + +Notions +^^^^^^^ + +* sewing thread to match the fabric; +* buttonhole thread to match the fabric; +* optional but recommended lace; +* 8 small buttons. + +Pattern +------- + +This pattern is based on the :doc:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/index` +and you need to take the measurements listed in :ref:`cutters_jackets`. + +the file :download:`../../drafting_methods/cutters/cutters.vit` is +used by default by the pattern file and has the list of needed +measurements. + +Pattern +^^^^^^^ + +Get the valentina file for the pattern, +:download:`combinations_corset_cover_petticoat.val`. + +You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the +table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible. + +``full_length`` + Length of the garment from the neck back, excluding the ruffle; +``shoulder_line`` + distance between the back of the neck and the bottom of the shoulder; + the default is one sixth of the distance between the back of the neck + and the waist; +``waist_to_hips`` + standard taken from the book: if your distance is very different you + may want to use your measurement; +``ease`` + ease added to half of the bust circumference; +``waist_suppression`` + waist suppression in the back and sides: usually 2.5 cm, but up to 3 + or even 4 cm for tight-laced waists; +``length_darts_waist_down`` + how long the darts should continue down from the waist: about 20 to + 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is; +``stand_width`` + e.g. 2 cm; +``front_opening`` + calculated to reach halfway between the waist and the hips; +``hem_circumference`` + e.g. 2 m; +``ruffle_height`` + e.g. 20 cm; +``ruffle_density`` + e.g. 2.5, or 3 for a densely pleated ruffle; +``sleeve_ruffle_height`` + e.g. 5 cm; +``sleeve_ruffle_density`` + e.g. 1.5; +``neckline_depth_front`` + distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, in front; +``neckline_width`` + full width of the neckline at the widest point; +``neckline_depth_back`` + distance from the base of the neck to the neckline, on the back; +``seam_allowance`` + e.g. 2 cm, to allow for french or flat-felled seams. + +Instructions +------------ + +Cutting +^^^^^^^ + +Cut the front panel on the fold, the rest of the panels twice; also cut +one each of the front facings, two sleeve ruffles and enough +selvege-to-selvege strips for the bottom ruffle. + +.. tip:: + + The length of the bottom ruffle in the pattern is just a suggestion; + using the closest multiple of the fabric width will reduce fabric + waste and allow you to use the selveges and avoid having to finish + the raw edges. + +Press carefully the crease in the front piece, to mark the line for the +opening, mark the triangle for the end of the opening, and also mark the +darts. + +Front Opening +^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0201-center_front_cut.jpg + :align: center + +Cut the center front until the *top* side of the triangle mark. + +.. figure:: 0202-facings_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +With the right side of the facing on the wrong side of the front, pin +the longer facing to the *right* of the cut and the shorter one to the +*left*; sew with an allowance of half the placket width until the +*bottom* side of the triangle mark. + +.. figure:: 0203-cut_triangle.jpg + :align: center + +Cut from the end of the center cut to the end of the seams, along the +triangle marking, taking care to just reach the seam, but not snip into +them. + +.. figure:: 0204-short_facing_pressed_forward.jpg + :align: center + +Press the shorter facing towards the opening, press down its other edge +towards the wrong side by half the placket width. + +.. figure:: 0205-short_facing_pressed_place.jpg + :align: center + +Press the facing in half and move it to the right side of the fabric so +that it just covers the seam. + +.. figure:: 0206-triangle_folded.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the small triangle from the front fabric towards the right +side. + +.. figure:: 0207-short_facing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +.. figure:: 0208-triangle_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch at 1 mm from each side, stopping just beyond the bottom of the +triangle, topstitch the lower edge catching the top of the triangle. + +.. figure:: 0210-long_facing_pressed_place.jpg + :align: center + +Repeat with the longer facing: press it towards the opening, press down +its other edge towards the wrong side by half the placket width. + +Press it in half and move it to the right side of the fabric, on top of +the shorter facing. + +.. figure:: 0210-long_facing_topstitched.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch at 1 mm from each side, stopping at the same level where +you've stopped on the shorter facing. + +.. figure:: 0211-placket_finished.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the bottom edge of the longer facing on top of the shorter +one, trim any excess or bulk and topstitch a square to keep it in place +and finish all raw edges. + +.. tip:: this is a pretty basic finish for the end of the button + placket, of course you can look for historical examples and go wide + with shaped edges. + +.. figure:: 0212-darts_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Sew the darts and press them towards the sides. + +Assembly +^^^^^^^^ + +Right sides together, sew all vertical seams. Note that the curved seam +between the side back and back is quite fiddly and will require at te +very minimum the seam line to be marked and carefully pinned, or +possibly even basting. + +Also sew the shoulder seams. + +Try the combinations on to check the fitting before finishing the seams, +do any alternation that is required. + +Press the seams open and then to one side, either towards the center +front or the center back, trim the lower allowance, fold the top one to +cover all raw edges and topstitch. + +Ruffles +^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0401-hem_ruffle.jpg + :align: center + +Sew all hem ruffle strips together in a tube; if you can use the +selvedges simply press the seams open to minimize bulk, otherwise flat +fell the seams. + +Hem one long side with a narrow hem. + +.. figure:: 0403-sleeve_ruffles.jpg + :align: center + +Sew also the sleeve ruffles in a tube, flat felling the seam, and hem +one long side with a narrow hem. + +.. figure:: 0404-sleeve_ruffle_attached.jpg + :align: center + +Gather or pleat the sleeve ruffles to the armscyes, sew with a double +allowance. + +.. note:: Take care to distribute the lenght of the ruffle uniformly + around the armscye, rather than just around the top of the sleeve as + it is usual, as the excess fabric around the armpit is useful to + protect the dress from sweat. This is of course less an issue if + making this as outerwear. + +.. figure:: 0405-sleeve_ruffle_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowances towards the body, trim the allowance of the body, +fold the ruffle on top to cover all raw edges and topstitch. + +.. figure:: 0406-hem_pressed_up.jpg + :align: center + +Press the hem of the petticoat towards the wrong side by 3 cm, sew at 1 +cm from the hem. + +.. figure:: 0407-receiving_tuck.jpg + :align: center + +Press the allowance down to make a receiving tuck, and then press the +raw edge inside the tuck. + +.. figure:: 0408-pinning_ruffle.jpg + :align: center + +Insert the top of the tuck in the receiving tuck, quartering it to the +hem and pleating or gathering the excess fabric. + +.. figure:: 0409-topstitched_ruffle.jpg + :align: center + +Topstitch at 5 mm from the hem to attach the ruffle and finish the tuck. + +Finishing +^^^^^^^^^ + +.. figure:: 0501-finishing.jpg + :align: center + +Hem the neck with a narrow hem. + +Sew lace liberally and/or to taste. + +Add small buttons and buttonholes to the front. + +.. tip:: If adding lace to the neckline, make the first buttonhole a bit + below the lace, and use a snap to keep the top of the neckline + closed. + +Variants +-------- + +Corset Cover +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +The same pattern can of course be used to make a regular corset cover: +either mark a length of 10 cm down from the waist, and cut all pieces at +that length, or cut all pieces at the waistline plus sewing allowance +and add a basque in one piece made by aligning all of the skirt pieces +and rounding the edges. + +The front facings will also have to be changed to be as long as the +front edge, and can be simply included in the front piece. + +Pocket Slits +^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +Since this kind of garment is likely to be made in lightweight fabric, +and it has no waist seam, adding pockets may not work very well, since +there is no structure to support the weight of the things one may want +to carry. + +Also, when using it as underwear pockets aren't really needed (since the +main garment already has them) and they may add unwanted bulk. + +Of course my solution to this isn't “no pockets” (perish the thought!), +but simple slits with modesty facings through which one can access a +:doc:`/accessories/bags/pair_of_pockets/index`. + +I've placed these slits on the seam between the side and side back +panels rather than on the seams of the front piece for two reasons: one +is that this way the front of the skirt remains smoother, and the bulk +of the pockets can be where there is more fullness in the back; the +other one is that the seams of the front piece are the first ones that +are changed in case one needs to do small alterations to the fitting, +and leaving them clear makes it easier. + +For the facings, cut two rectangles of fabric, about 20 cm × 14 cm each. + +.. figure:: b01-facings_sewn_pressed.jpg + :align: center + +Fold them in half on the long side, right sides facing, and sew the +short sides with an allowance of 1 cm. +Turn inside out and press. + +.. figure:: b02-facing_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Put the rectangles on the right side of the side back pieces, on the +straight grain edge, between the waist and the hips, and at half an +allowance from the edge of the fabric, sew with the regular seam +allowance. + +.. figure:: b03-facing_pressed.jpg + :align: center + +Press towards the outside. + +.. figure:: b04-side_seam_sewn.jpg + :align: center + +Put the side on top of the side back pieces, right sides together, and +sew the seam stopping in such a way that just 1 cm at the top and bottom +of the facings is covered. + +.. figure:: b05-allowance_pressed.jpg + :align: center + +Press the seam open, then press all allowances towards the side. + +.. figure:: b06-side_allowance_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Clip the allowance of the side just outside the facings, fold it twice +and topstitch it down while keeping the facing out of the way. + +.. figure:: b07-side_back_allowance_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Fold the allowance of the side backs over the allowance of the facing, +covering all raw edges, and topstitch it to the facing. + +.. figure:: b08-allowances_fully_felled.jpg + :align: center + +Trim the rest of the allowance of the side to half its width, cover +with the allowance of the side back and topstitch it as usual for a +flat-felled seam. + +Insertion Lace +^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ + +This pattern is of course great for a liberal application of insertion +lace, which can happen in two ways. + +One is to prepare entire parts of the panels by sewing together lace, +and then cutting a smaller panel in fabric: this works great e.g. for +the yoke. + +Another one is to insert strips of lace by sewing them to the fabric and +then cutting away the fabric behind the lace; for lace that only covers +one of the panels this should be done before the combinations are sewn, +while for laces that go all around the circumference it's easier to +finish the garment first and then add the lace. + +A variant of the latter is to cut all around the finished garment and +then insert the lace: this wastes less fabric, but of course adds +length, so it's only recommended in the skirt part where it's easier to +compensate for it. It will also change the line of the skirt, but the +effect should only be noticeable with taller laces. + +Gallery +------- + +.. figure:: combinations_back.jpg + :align: center diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5762350 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst @@ -0,0 +1,10 @@ +*********** + Underwear +*********** + +.. toctree:: + :maxdepth: 2 + :caption: Contents: + + combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index + |
