diff options
3 files changed, 568 insertions, 2 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst index feab22a..30831f4 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/index.rst @@ -109,11 +109,18 @@ Page 7, diagram 1, plate 4., plus sleeve from page 26, diagram 41, plate * :download:`ladies_jacket.val` +Vest +^^^^ + +Page 21, diagram 29 to 34, plate 16. + +* basic block, for hooks and eyes :download:`vest.val` +* with buttonhole stand (single breasted) + :download:`vest_single_breasted.val` + Skirt ^^^^^ Page 41, diagram 87, plate 38. * :download:`foundation_skirt.val` - - diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest.val b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d45709d --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest.val @@ -0,0 +1,275 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternLabel> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="cutters.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="usually 5 cm" formula="5" name="#skirt_length"/> + <increment formula="30" name="#skirt_spring_angle" specialUnits="true"/> + <increment description="from waist, usually 9 cm" formula="9" name="#vest_length_in_front"/> + <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#button_stand"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#ease"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="neck_back_to_highbust_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A8q" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="neck_back_to_waist_b" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15h" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="0" basePoint="3" id="4" length="5" lineColor="black" mx="-2.29549" 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text="%pLetter%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/> + <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="284.017" my="674.541" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="125" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="124" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="65" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="66" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="67" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="68" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="69" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="70" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="71" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="72" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="73" type="NodePoint"/> + </nodes> + <pins> + <record>124</record> + <record>125</record> + </pins> + </detail> + <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" 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sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/> + </data> + <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1453.9" my="1132.12" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/> + <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="127" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="126" visible="true"/> + <nodes> + <node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="88" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="89" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="90" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="91" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="92" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="93" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="94" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="95" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="96" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + <node idObject="97" type="NodePoint"/> + <node idObject="98" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/> + </nodes> + <iPaths> + <record path="112"/> + <record path="118"/> + <record path="121"/> + </iPaths> + <pins> + <record>126</record> + <record>127</record> + </pins> + </detail> + </details> + <groups/> + </draw> +</pattern> diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest_single_breasted.val b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest_single_breasted.val new file mode 100644 index 0000000..da07d72 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest_single_breasted.val @@ -0,0 +1,284 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> +<pattern labelPrefix="en"> + <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).--> + <version>0.9.1</version> + <unit>cm</unit> + <description/> + <notes/> + <patternLabel> + <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFileName%"/> + <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/> + </patternLabel> + <measurements path="cutters.vit"/> + <increments> + <increment description="usually 5 cm" formula="5" name="#skirt_length"/> + <increment formula="30" name="#skirt_spring_angle" specialUnits="true"/> + <increment description="from waist, usually 9 cm" formula="9" name="#vest_length_in_front"/> + <increment description="about 20 to 25 cm depending on how flat the stomach is" formula="25" name="#length_darts_waist_down"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#button_stand"/> + <increment formula="4" name="#ease"/> + <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/> + </increments> + <previewCalculations/> + <draw name="pattern"> + <calculation> + <point id="1" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/> + <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" 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lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A13" secondPoint="24" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <arc aScale="0" angle1="260" angle2="300" center="29" color="cornflowerblue" id="44" penStyle="hair" radius="neck_back_to_bust_front - Spl_A_Aqqq" type="simple"/> + <point firstPoint="40" id="45" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A14" secondPoint="41" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="42" id="46" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A15" secondPoint="43" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_AV_Aeee" basePoint="45" curve="44" id="47" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A16" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point angle="AngleLine_AV_Aeee" basePoint="46" curve="44" id="50" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A17" showLabel="true" type="curveIntersectAxis" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="45" id="53" length="- #length_darts_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A18" secondPoint="47" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point firstPoint="46" id="54" length="- #length_darts_waist_down" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A19" secondPoint="50" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point angle="270 - 20" basePoint="24" id="55" length="#skirt_length" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A20" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/> + <point firstPoint="38" id="56" length="- #vest_length_in_front" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A21" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/> + <point id="57" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A22" p1Line1="55" p1Line2="43" p2Line1="56" p2Line2="54" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/> + <point id="58" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" 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angle2="AngleLine_AV_Aeee - 180" color="black" id="131" length1="10" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="29" point4="128" type="simpleInteractive"/> + </calculation> + <modeling> + <point id="65" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="66" idObject="22" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="67" idObject="6" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="68" idObject="10" inUse="true" mx="-0.0270999" my="-2.42273" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <spline id="69" idObject="64" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/> + <point id="70" idObject="11" inUse="true" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="71" idObject="12" inUse="true" mx="0.760082" my="-0.428956" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="72" idObject="4" inUse="true" mx="-2.29549" my="0.0665426" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/> + <point id="73" idObject="7" 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