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15 files changed, 391 insertions, 21 deletions
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bordercolor="#666666" + borderopacity="1.0" + inkscape:showpageshadow="2" + inkscape:pageopacity="0.0" + inkscape:pagecheckerboard="0" + inkscape:deskcolor="#d1d1d1" + inkscape:document-units="mm" + showgrid="true" + inkscape:zoom="1.0039352" + inkscape:cx="341.15747" + inkscape:cy="104.58842" + inkscape:window-width="1268" + inkscape:window-height="879" + inkscape:window-x="0" + inkscape:window-y="0" + inkscape:window-maximized="0" + inkscape:current-layer="layer1" + showguides="false"> + <inkscape:grid + id="grid1" + units="mm" + originx="0.99999997" + originy="-584.82677" + spacingx="3.7795276" + spacingy="3.7795277" + empcolor="#0099e5" + empopacity="0.30196078" + color="#0099e5" + opacity="0.14901961" + empspacing="5" + enabled="true" + visible="true" /> + </sodipodi:namedview> + <defs + id="defs1" /> + <g + inkscape:label="Layer 1" + inkscape:groupmode="layer" + id="layer1" + transform="translate(1,-584.82678)"> + <rect + style="fill:#e1e4ec;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:2;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-opacity:1" + id="rect1-5" + width="680.31494" + height="207.87404" + x="0" + y="585.82678" + ry="0" /> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:8px;line-height:1.25;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:'FreeSans, Normal';text-align:center;text-anchor:middle" + x="616.06305" + y="-672.75592" + id="text1-0-6" + transform="rotate(90)"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan1-9-2" + x="616.06305" + y="-672.75592" + style="font-size:8px">waist to hip + 2</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:10.6667px;line-height:1.25;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:'FreeSans, Normal';text-align:center;text-anchor:middle" + x="340.13614" + y="600.94489" + id="text2-2"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan2-9" + x="340.13614" + y="600.94489">selvedge (waist level)</tspan></text> + <rect + style="fill:#c2ceec;fill-opacity:1;stroke:#000000;stroke-width:2;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-dasharray:none;stroke-opacity:1" + id="rect1" + width="680.31494" + height="151.18111" + x="0" + y="642.51971" /> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:10.6667px;line-height:1.25;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:'FreeSans, Normal';text-align:center;text-anchor:middle" + x="340.15747" + y="657.63782" + id="text2"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan2" + x="340.15747" + y="657.63782">selvedge (hips level)</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + style="font-size:10.6667px;line-height:1.25;font-family:FreeSans;-inkscape-font-specification:'FreeSans, Normal';text-align:center;text-anchor:middle" + x="340.1575" + y="786.14172" + id="text2-7"><tspan + sodipodi:role="line" + id="tspan2-92" + x="340.1575" + y="786.14172">fold</tspan></text> + <text + xml:space="preserve" + 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a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0114-pinned_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0114-pinned_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bb082d5 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0114-pinned_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3d00006 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0116-sewing_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0116-sewing_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f385bb0 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0116-sewing_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0117-backstitching_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0117-backstitching_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2c081f2 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0117-backstitching_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c2fd187 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dadf7fe --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/corded_petticoat.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/corded_petticoat.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a50490e --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/corded_petticoat.jpg diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst index 61325a6..c1d8801 100644 --- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst @@ -1,13 +1,45 @@ Early Victorian Corded Petticoat ================================ -.. figure:: petticoat.jpg +.. figure:: corded_petticoat.jpg :align: center .. only:: html .. contents:: +This is one of the basic support layers of the early Victorian era, when +steel cage crinolines had not been invented yet, and skirt volume was +obtained by adding layers of petticoats. + +It was also used in later years as a cheaper substitute by people who +couldn't afford metal structures, and thus is can be useful for +traditional dress or other working class outfits. + +Most of the fabric at the waist is pleated and sewn in place, but about +20 cm are left plain with a drawstring, so that they can be adjusted for +waist fluctuations or when shared between different people. + +While functionally equivalent, it is not an accurate historical +constructions, since it takes advantage of the double width of modern +fabric; a rectangle of the same size can however be pieced from narrower +fabric for more historical accuracy. + +The instructions are for handsewing, but of course the cording and the +side seam can also be sewn by machine; attaching the tape to the top +needs to be done by hand (or to be significantly changed). + +Contrary to other patterns, this is worked flat and only joined in a +tube at the very last stage: I think that for handsewing this makes the +work easier to manage, altough it may make the cording a bit slower if +sewn by machine. + +.. note:: I've made this petticoat quite some time ago and I can't find + the step-by-step pictures of many stages, but I don't have plans to + make another one any time soon, so I've decided to publish the + pattern as is. If in the future I'll have a chance to make another + petticoat I'll be sure to take the missing pictures. + Materials --------- @@ -32,76 +64,182 @@ The pattern for this petticoat is simply a rectangle, about 2-3 m long, using the full width of the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. .. tip:: for many people holding the fabric between their extended arms - would result in a 1.5 m lenght; doubling that gives a good + would result in a 1.5 m length; doubling that gives a good width for the 1840s and early 1850s. You also need to measure from your waist to mid-calf and from your waist to the hips (you can do so with a tape, but also directly with the fabric, see the instructions). +After straightening one edge, but before cutting the rest of the fabric, +measure a point on the straightened edge at about the distance between +waist and hips plus 2 cm hemming allowance from one selvedge, pin the +other selvedge at that point and check the length on your body. + +The fold should end up somewhere below the mid calf: the finished +petticoat will be a bit shorter than that because of the cording. + +If it's too long, you can fold the fabric up a bit more, but if it's too +short by more than a few cm you'll have to piece together a taller +rectangle, possibly cut from the other direction of the fabric. + Instructions ------------ -On one side of the fabric mark a line on the wrong side of the fabric at -the distance between the waist and the hips from one of the selvedges. +.. figure:: 0101-folded_fabric.svg + :align: center + +On the wrong side of the fabric mark a line parallel to one of the +selvedges at the distance you've measured above. + +Align the other selvedge to this line, wrong sides together, fold it and +press. + +.. tip:: You may want to add a few safety pins to help managing the + fabric while moving it. + +If the line you've marked is significantly different from the waist - +hips distance, also mark that line. + +.. figure:: 0102-marked_cording.svg + :align: center + +Divide the distance between the hem fold and the hips in 8, on the wrong +side mark parallel lines at that distance from each other, starting from +the hem fold. + +.. this should have figure 0103-cording_hem.jpg + +Cut 5 pieces of 5 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put it in the fold at the hem of the petticoat leaving 2 cm free on each +side, pinning it in place with safety pins, and sew a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible to keep it in place. + +.. this should have figure 0104-cording_hem_second_row.jpg + +Put a second piece of cording between the two layers of fabric above the +seam, pin it with safety pins and sew a running stitch above it as +before. + +.. maybe 0105-thick_cording_done.jpg + +Repeat with the 3 other pieces of 5 mm cording. + +.. this should have figure 0106-base_seam.jpg + +Making sure that the two layers of fabric are still smooth, sew a +running stitch over the first line from the bottom you've marked +earlier. + +.. this should have figure 0107-cording_first_thin.jpg -Align the other selvedge to this line, wrong sides together, fold it -wrong sides together and press. -You may want to add a few pins to help managing the fabric while moving -it. +Cut 5 pieces of 3 mm cording 4 cm shorter than the length of the fabric, +put one of them above this seam, and sew again with a running stitch as +close to the cording as possible. -Check that by aligning the single selvedge to your waist the fold falls -somewhere below the mid-calf: the petticoat will be shortened a bit by -the cording. +.. this should have figure 0108-cording_first_thin_done.jpg +Repeat with the other 4 pieces. -.... +.. this should have figure 0109-cording pattern_done.jpg +Repeat on the next two marked lines using just 4 pieces of 3 mm cording +each, then on the next two lines using 3 pieces each and on the last two +marked lines with just two pieces of cording each. -Fold down the selvadge by 2 cm, draw lines at 5, 10 and optionally 15 mm +.. tip:: This is a reasonable cording pattern that gives more rigidity + at the bottom than at the top, of course any other cording pattern + can be used, especially if seen in period examples. + +.. figure:: 0110-hemstitching_selvedge.jpg + :align: center + +Hemstitch the selvedge at hips level to the front fabric. + +.. figure:: 0111-hemming_seam.jpg + :align: center + +Finish the raw edges on the sides by folding them 1 cm twice towards the +wrong side and hemstitching them. + +.. figure:: 0112-marking_top.jpg + :align: center + +Fold down the selvedge by 2 cm, draw lines at 5, 10 and optionally 15 mm from the fold. Starting 20 cm from each side, mark points at every cm. +Also mark the center and the quarter points. + +.. figure:: 0113-running_gathering_stitches.jpg + :align: center + Run a strong thread that is longer than the finished waist on each marked line, making sure to enter the fabric right at the marked points. Cut a piece of 2.5 cm tape that is as long as your waist plus 32 cm, hem the ends folding them down by half a cm twice and mark the center. Also mark two points that would be quarters if the tape was exactly as -long as your waist (so 15 cm less than the actual tape on each side. +long as your waist (so 16 cm less than the actual tape on each side. + +.. figure:: 0114-pinned_tape.jpg + :align: center Pin the tape to the top of the petticoat, aligned on the fold, on the wrong side, putting it flat on the first 20 cm and then pinning the -marked point and pulling the gathering thread so that - +marked point and pulling the gathering thread to gather the petticoat +fabric in the right length. +.. figure:: 0115-whipstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center -pleat towards center front and center back +Flatten each section of the pleats so that they go towards the center +front or the center back, as appropriate, and whipstitch the petticoat to +the tape, first on the smooth section and then sewing the pleats in +place. +.. tip:: Instead of flattening the pleats, you can also sew them as + cartridge pleats, catching just the bottom of each fold and sewing + over it twice for strength. -[...] +.. figure:: 0116-sewing_tape.jpg + :align: center Cut two pieces of 1 cm tape, 42 cm long, hem one edge, fold the other edge down by 1 cm and put it on the folded down allowance at the top, right before the pleating starts, and pointing towards the end of the fabric. Hemstitch to the allowance on 3 edges. +.. figure:: 0117-backstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center + Then pass the needle to the outside of the fabric, and backstitch through both layers of fabric, the narrow tape and the wide tape, to fix -it in place. +it securely in place. + +.. figure:: 0118-hemstitching_tape.jpg + :align: center Pin down the wide tape, covering the narrow, and hemstitch it to the unpleated part of the petticoat, forming a channel. Repeat on the other side. -Variants --------- +.. figure:: 0119-sewing_side_seam.jpg + :align: center +Put the two ends of the petticoat right sides together and whipstitch +the seam closed starting from the hem and stopping after the last row of +cording. Gallery ------- +.. figure:: swish_test.jpg + :align: center + + The mandatory swish test, showing the full extended petticoat. + See also -------- diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a9e1f50 --- /dev/null +++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/swish_test.jpg |
