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-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpgbin0 -> 1073829 bytes
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst52
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst1
3 files changed, 44 insertions, 9 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5417c3d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/full_skirt_front.jpg
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diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst
index d292237..7bf5d6e 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/cartridge_pleated_skirt/index.rst
@@ -4,7 +4,18 @@ Cartridge Pleated Skirt
.. figure:: full_skirt_front.jpg
:align: center
-These are quite generic instructions for a skirt
+These are quite generic instructions for a skirt made of a long
+rectangle cartridge pleated into a waistband (or into a bodice).
+
+As a general style, it can be useful for a variety of periods, including
+the mid 19th century and I believe Elisabethian period, but also many
+styles of European folk dress.
+
+These instructions assume handsewing: other than the cartridge pleating
+everything can be done by machine, by sewing a straight stitch when the
+instructions mention (running) backstitches, and topstitching with a
+straight stitch instead of prick stitcking and hem/applique stitching,
+the latter of course with a different look.
Materials
---------
@@ -12,7 +23,7 @@ Materials
Fabric
^^^^^^
-* At least 2 to 3 m of skirt fabric : mid-weight cotton, linen or wool;
+* At least 2 to 3 m of skirt fabric : mid-weight cotton, linen, silk or wool;
* 70+ cm sturdy fabric for the hem facing.
@@ -21,6 +32,7 @@ Notions
* sewing thread to match the fabric;
* stronger thread for the gathering seam, e.g. linen buttonhole;
+* optional stiffening for the hem facing (tarlatan or sturdy linen);
* at least 3 m wool braid or hem protector for the bottom edge.
Pattern
@@ -69,11 +81,13 @@ seams with a running backstitch, starting from the hem and stopping at
Press open; if you don't have a selvedge also press the raw edge under
towards the seam.
-Working from the right side, sew the raw edges down with a prick stitch,
-i.e. a backstitch where the stitch in the front is much shorter than the
-stitch on the back, catching just a couple of threads of the fabric;
-stop this seam at some point before the top, as you will finish it after
-folding down the top edge.
+
+If you have a selvedge on both sides pressing the seam open may be
+enough, otherwise working from the right side, sew the raw edges down
+with a prick stitch, i.e. a backstitch where the stitch in the front is
+much shorter than the stitch on the back, catching just a couple of
+threads of the fabric; stop this seam at some point before the top, as
+you will finish it after folding down the top edge.
.. tip:: if your edges are raw rather than selvedges, you can also sew
the side seams with a mantua maker's stitch, which already encloses
@@ -106,14 +120,23 @@ Press the raw edge of the facing 1 cm towards the wrong side.
Press flat and then press up, trying to leave about 1 mm of the front
fabric showing on the back.
-.. tip:: if your skirt is somewhat short (e.g. ankle length) you can
- also let about 1 mm of the facing show on the front and skip
+.. tip:: if your skirt is somewhat short (e.g. ankle length) and not
+ touching the ground you can also let about 1 mm of the facing show on
+ the front and skip adding the hem protector; you will then have to
+ change the facing when it gets ruined, but the main fabric will be
+ protected by it.
Optionally, sew the additional stiffening to the facing with a running
stitch.
Hemstitch the top of the facing to the skirt.
+Applique stitch the skirt to the hem protector, letting about 1 mm of
+the protector show in the front;
+
+and hem stitch the other side of the hem protector to the skirt,
+catching only the facing.
+
Top edge
--------
@@ -162,7 +185,18 @@ third.
Then pull on the threads to start gathering the fabric and freeing more
thread, and resume running, starting with the first thread.
+.. tip:: if one of the threads break, you can leave as long a tail as
+ you can, tie a new one to it and keep and continue working with it.
+
+ If more than one thread breaks, or a thread breaks in multiple
+ places, I'd recommend starting from scratch with a stronger thread.
+
+Right sides together, pin the waistband to the skirt in the places you
+have marked before, arranging the pleats so that they are distributed
+evenly, but don't fasten off the threads at the ends yet.
+Using again the strong thread, sew the waistband to the skirt with a
+whipstitch, catching each pleat twice for additional strenght.
Gallery
-------
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst
index 6494ef1..6f6213d 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/skirts/index.rst
@@ -7,4 +7,5 @@
:caption: Contents:
1892_foundation_skirt/index
+ cartridge_pleated_skirt/index