Improved pattern description

2 files changed, 33 insertions, 12 deletions

diff --git a/source/bibliography/misc.bib b/source/bibliography/misc.bib
index a4b894c..aa91a2e 100644
--- a/source/bibliography/misc.bib
+++ b/source/bibliography/misc.bib
@@ -44,3 +44,19 @@
     year = {1892},
     url = "https://archive.org/details/homedressmakingc00myer",
 }
+
+@Book{1879:beeton
+    author = {Beeton},
+    title = {Beeton's housewife's treasury of domestic information},
+    publisher = {London ; New York : Ward, Lock & Co., Warwick House, Salisbury Square, E.C.},
+    year = {1979},
+    url = "https://archive.org/details/gri_33125012088023/",
+}
+
+@Book{1840:godey
+    author = {Godey},
+    title = {Godey's lady's book},
+    publisher = {L.A. Godey},
+    year = {1840},
+    url = "https://archive.org/details/godeysladysboo00phil",
+}
diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
index 5610e00..d7b7df1 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
@@ -4,10 +4,21 @@
 .. figure:: gri_33125012088023-773.svg
    :align: center
 
-A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on `Beeton's housewife's
-treasury of domestic information
-<https://archive.org/details/gri_33125012088023/page/718/mode/2up>`_
-from around 1880.
+A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on Beeton's housewife's
+treasury of domestic information :cite:`1879:beeton` from around 1880.
+
+This is a transtitional pattern between the shirts completely made from
+rectangles of the first half of the 19th century (and earlier) and the
+more structured shirts of the 20th century.
+
+This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've
+seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use
+a pattern like this one, and it should work up to the Edwardian era, but
+you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front
+opening and especially collar and cuffs for each era.
+
+The same pattern can also be used for an early ladies' Garibaldi Shirt
+:cite:`1840:godey` (pag 29).
 
 While assembling the shirt is a relatively easy project, the pattern
 instructions are from a vintage book (and not one of the best, either),
@@ -18,12 +29,6 @@ Before making this shirt in expensive fabric you will need to make a
 mock-up, and even when using relatively cheap cotton shirting you may
 want to make a mock up of the shoulder piece.
 
-This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've
-seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use
-a pattern like this one, and it should work up to the Edwardian era, but
-you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front
-opening and especially collar and cuffs for each era.
-
 I believe that the original instructions assumed that this shirt would
 be hand sewn, but by the 1880s sewing machines in the home were most
 definitely a thing (and they are mentioned in a later chapter of the
@@ -212,7 +217,7 @@ Cut the full rectangles for the front and back.
    :align: center
 
 If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper
-pattern for the armscyes <1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:>`, mark the seam
+pattern for the armscyes <1880s_shirt_marking_armscyes>`, mark the seam
 lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double
 seaming allowance.
 
@@ -557,7 +562,7 @@ Hem the shirt: fold down the bottom of the front and back twice,
 mitering the corners and continuing up to the lower end of the side
 seam, and hemstitch.
 
-.. 1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:
+.. _1880s_shirt_marking_armscyes:
 
 .. figure:: 0606-marking_armscye.jpg
    :align: center