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authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2024-03-11 19:13:52 +0100
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2025-08-06 17:12:52 +0200
commit447abc501d0f6ae91c0b0e15d527e1bf6b3bcc70 (patch)
tree38685c7740c7a73f1d21bec64113f72ada8206cd /source
parent7b062128813bcd67758091134bb8b06e1b2c9665 (diff)
Start article on corded petticoat
Diffstat (limited to 'source')
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index.rst107
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst1
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+Early Victorian Corded Petticoat
+================================
+
+.. figure:: petticoat.jpg
+ :align: center
+
+.. only:: html
+
+ .. contents::
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* About 3 m of midweight cotton or linen, at least 150 cm wide for a 160
+ cm tall person.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* almost 100 m cotton cording or thick yarn, 3 mm;
+* 12 - 15 m cotton cording or thick yarn, 5 mm;
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* cotton tape, 2 cm wide.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+The pattern for this petticoat is simply a rectangle, about 2-3 m long,
+using the full width of the fabric from selvedge to selvedge.
+
+.. tip:: for many people holding the fabric between their extended arms
+ would result in a 1.5 m lenght; doubling that gives a good
+ width for the 1840s and early 1850s.
+
+You also need to measure from your waist to mid-calf and from your waist
+to the hips (you can do so with a tape, but also directly with the
+fabric, see the instructions).
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+On one side of the fabric mark a line on the wrong side of the fabric at
+the distance between the waist and the hips from one of the selvedges.
+
+Align the other selvedge to this line, wrong sides together, fold it
+wrong sides together and press.
+You may want to add a few pins to help managing the fabric while moving
+it.
+
+Check that by aligning the single selvedge to your waist the fold falls
+somewhere below the mid-calf: the petticoat will be shortened a bit by
+the cording.
+
+
+....
+
+
+Fold down the selvadge by 2 cm, draw lines at 5, 10 and optionally 15 mm
+from the fold.
+Starting 20 cm from each side, mark points at every cm.
+
+Run a strong thread that is longer than the finished waist on each
+marked line, making sure to enter the fabric right at the marked points.
+
+Cut a piece of 2.5 cm tape that is as long as your waist plus 32 cm, hem
+the ends folding them down by half a cm twice and mark the center.
+Also mark two points that would be quarters if the tape was exactly as
+long as your waist (so 15 cm less than the actual tape on each side.
+
+Pin the tape to the top of the petticoat, aligned on the fold, on the
+wrong side, putting it flat on the first 20 cm and then pinning the
+marked point and pulling the gathering thread so that
+
+
+
+pleat towards center front and center back
+
+
+[...]
+
+Cut two pieces of 1 cm tape, 42 cm long, hem one edge, fold the other
+edge down by 1 cm and put it on the folded down allowance at the top,
+right before the pleating starts, and pointing towards the end of the
+fabric. Hemstitch to the allowance on 3 edges.
+
+Then pass the needle to the outside of the fabric, and backstitch
+through both layers of fabric, the narrow tape and the wide tape, to fix
+it in place.
+
+Pin down the wide tape, covering the narrow, and hemstitch it to the
+unpleated part of the petticoat, forming a channel.
+
+Repeat on the other side.
+
+Variants
+--------
+
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+See also
+--------
+
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst
index c266de8..85c7294 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/underwear/index.rst
@@ -9,4 +9,5 @@
combination_corset_cover_and_petticoat/index
1904_combination_suit/index
single_layer_midbust_corset/index
+ early_victorian_corded_petticoat/index