Merge branch 'leggings'

11 files changed, 272 insertions, 3 deletions

diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst
index 1dd5d41..437fa2e 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/index.rst
@@ -9,4 +9,5 @@ century) blocks for people with breasts.
    :maxdepth: 2
    :caption: Contents:
 
+   trousers/index
    measurements/index
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit b/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit
index 337f953..512f624 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit
@@ -7,7 +7,7 @@
     <unit>cm</unit>
     <pm_system>42</pm_system>
     <personal>
-        <customer>EoV</customer>
+        <customer>Size 14</customer>
         <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date>
         <gender>female</gender>
         <email/>
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst
index a1258a9..3fc9e55 100644
--- a/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/measurements/aldrich/index.rst
@@ -1,5 +1,5 @@
-Aldrich
-=======
+Aldrich Drafting System
+=======================
 
 The file :download:`aldrich.vit` includes the measurements used by the
 patterns based on blocks from `Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ffb0630
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+**********
+ Trousers
+**********
+
+.. toctree::
+   :maxdepth: 2
+   :caption: Contents:
+
+   leggings_shorts/index
+
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/01-inseam.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/01-inseam.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f56f7a1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/01-inseam.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/03-crotch_seam.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/03-crotch_seam.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9f0780d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/03-crotch_seam.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/05-hem.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/05-hem.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..67183ca
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/05-hem.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/07-pinned_elastic.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/07-pinned_elastic.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..72c9df9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/07-pinned_elastic.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/09-sewn_elastic.jpg b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/09-sewn_elastic.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..04f444c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/09-sewn_elastic.jpg
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..531f9d1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,129 @@
+Leggings / Shorts
+=================
+
+.. .. figure:: leggings.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+These are simple leggings with an elastic waist.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* About 2 m of fabric with a high stretch for full-length leggins, about
+  1 m for shorts.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* 2 cm wide elastic, enough to go around the waist;
+* matching sewing thread.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+This pattern uses the :doc:`../../measurements/aldrich/index`.
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``rise_length_side`` (N08)
+   vertical distance from Waist side down to Crotch level.
+``height_waist_back`` (A23)
+   height from the waist to the ground, measured in the center back,
+   going over the buttocks;
+``hip_circ`` (G09)
+   circumference of the hips.
+``leg_ankle_high_circ`` (M08)
+   ankle circumference where the indentation at the back of the ankle is
+   the deepest.
+
+the file :download:`../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit` is used by
+default by the pattern file and has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern,
+:download:`leggings.val`.
+
+In the table of variables in Valentina there are the following
+increments that need to be set:
+
+``front_curve_distance``
+   2.25 cm if hips < 102 cm, 2.5 cm otherwise;
+``back_curve_distance``
+   3.75 cm if hips < 102 cm, 4 cm otherwise;
+``back_raise``
+   how much the back should be higher than the front; 3 cm for people
+   who are less curvy, 5 cm is good for moderately curvy people;
+``sewing_allowance``
+   enough to be able to use french or flat felled seams.
+
+If you want to make shorts rather than full leggins, measure from the
+waist down the side the desired length, copy that measurement on the
+pattern on the grain indicator line, add 2 cm for the hem and fold back
+the pattern perpendicularly to the grain line.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+Cut the two legs on folded fabric.
+
+Sewing
+^^^^^^
+
+.. note::
+   All seams are sewn with a french seam, using a narrow zig-zag
+   stitch.
+
+   For a total allowance of 2 cm, wrong sides facing sew with a 8 mm
+   allowance, turn inside out, sew with a 10 mm allowance, press to one
+   side.
+
+   Alternatively, they can be sewn with a flat felled seam on the
+   *right* side of the garment, again with a narrow zig-zag stitch:
+   wrong sides facing sew with a 2 cm allowance, trim one of the
+   allowances down to 8 mm, fold the other allowance over it to cover
+   all raw edges and topstitch 2 mm from the folded edge.
+
+.. figure:: 01-inseam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the legs and sew the inseam.
+
+.. figure:: 03-crotch_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Turn one leg inside out; place them one inside the other and sew the
+crotch seam.
+
+.. figure:: 05-hem.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the legs towards the inside by 2 cm, sew from the right side with a
+triple zig-zag or another decorative *elastic* stitch.
+
+.. figure:: 07-pinned_elastic.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Cut enough elastic to go confortably while a little taut around the
+waist, find the half and quarter points and pin them to the
+corresponding points on the waist, folding down the edge to cover it.
+
+.. figure:: 09-sewn_elastic.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sew from the right side with the same stitch used for the hem, while
+keeping the elastic taut.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
diff --git a/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a4271a7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/contemporary_womenswear/trousers/leggings_shorts/leggings.val
@@ -0,0 +1,129 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<pattern>
+    <!--Pattern created with Valentina v0.7.51.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.9.0</version>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <description>Based on the close fitting leggings block from page 200 of Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear by Winifred Aldrich, 6th edition.</description>
+    <notes/>
+    <patternName>Leggings</patternName>
+    <patternNumber/>
+    <company/>
+    <customer/>
+    <patternLabel dateFormat="yyyy-MM-dd" timeFormat="hh:mm:ss">
+        <line alignment="0" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="4" text="%author%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%patternName%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%patternNumber%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%customer%"/>
+        <line alignment="0" bold="false" italic="true" sfIncrement="0" text="%date%"/>
+    </patternLabel>
+    <measurements>../../measurements/aldrich/aldrich.vit</measurements>
+    <increments>
+        <increment description="2.25 cm if hips &lt; 102 cm, 2.5 cm otherwise" formula="2.5" name="#front_curve_distance"/>
+        <increment description="3.75 cm if hips &lt; 102 cm, 4 cm otherwise" formula="4" name="#back_curve_distance"/>
+        <increment description="how much the back should be higher than the front (default is 3 cm)" formula="5" name="#back_raise"/>
+        <increment formula="2" name="#sewing_allowance"/>
+    </increments>
+    <previewCalculations/>
+    <draw name="block">
+        <calculation>
+            <point id="1" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A" showLabel="true" type="single" x="0.79375" y="1.05833"/>
+            <point angle="270" basePoint="1" id="2" length="rise_length_side - 1" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A1" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="1" id="3" length="height_waist_back - 8" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A2" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="2" id="4" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A3" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="2" id="5" length="hip_circ / 4 - 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A4f" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="2" id="6" length="Line_A1_A4f" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A4b" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="5" id="7" mx="0.84005" my="-1.50481" name="A5f" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="6" id="8" mx="-2.58078" my="-1.38685" name="A5b" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+            <point firstPoint="7" id="9" length="1" lineColor="black" mx="-1.87302" my="-1.38685" name="A6" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="5" id="10" length="CurrentLength/4" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A7" secondPoint="7" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point firstPoint="5" id="11" length="-CurrentLength/6" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A8" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="270" angle2="100" color="black" id="12" length1="7" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="9" point4="10" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="280" angle2="135" color="black" id="13" length1="4" length2="3" penStyle="hair" point1="10" point4="11" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="3" id="14" length="leg_ankle_high_circ / 2 - 0.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A9f" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="3" id="15" length="Line_A2_A9f" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A9b" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="0" basePoint="4" id="16" length="Line_A1_A4b * 2 / 3 - 0.5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A10f" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <line firstPoint="16" id="17" lineColor="black" secondPoint="14" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="240" angle2="AngleLine_A10f_A9f - 180" color="black" id="18" length1="6" length2="10" penStyle="hair" point1="11" point4="16" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="4" id="19" length="Line_A3_A10f" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A10b" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="8" id="20" length="4" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A11" secondPoint="1" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="20" id="21" length="#back_raise" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A12" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point firstPoint="6" id="22" length="CurrentLength/3" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A13" secondPoint="8" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="90" center="5" color="darkviolet" id="23" penStyle="hair" radius="#front_curve_distance" type="simple"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="180" center="6" color="darkviolet" id="24" penStyle="hair" radius="#back_curve_distance" type="simple"/>
+            <point firstPoint="6" id="25" length="- Line_A4f_A8 - Line_A1_A4b / 5" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A14" secondPoint="2" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="250" color="black" id="26" length1="4" length2="4" penStyle="hair" point1="25" point4="22" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="70" angle2="270" color="black" id="27" length1="6" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="22" point4="21" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="15" id="28" length="2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="A15" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <point angle="180" basePoint="19" id="29" length="3" lineColor="black" mx="0.048118" my="0.264583" name="A16" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <line firstPoint="28" id="30" lineColor="black" secondPoint="29" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_A15_A16" angle2="AngleLine_A15_A16 + 20 + 180" color="black" id="31" length1="8" length2="8" penStyle="hair" point1="29" point4="25" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <point firstPoint="16" id="32" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Alf" secondPoint="11" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="270" center="32" color="darkviolet" id="33" penStyle="hair" radius="0.75" type="simple"/>
+            <point firstPoint="29" id="34" length="CurrentLength/2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="Alb" secondPoint="25" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
+            <arc aScale="0" angle1="-90" angle2="90" center="34" color="darkviolet" id="35" penStyle="hair" radius="0.75" type="simple"/>
+            <point angle="90" basePoint="1" id="37" length="#back_raise / 2" lineColor="black" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" name="At" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="170" color="black" id="75" length1="6" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="21" point4="37" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+            <spline aScale="0" angle1="350" angle2="180" color="black" id="76" length1="5" length2="10" penStyle="hair" point1="37" point4="9" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+        </calculation>
+        <modeling>
+            <point id="43" idObject="37" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="45" idObject="12" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="46" idObject="10" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="47" idObject="13" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="48" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="49" idObject="18" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="50" idObject="16" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="51" idObject="14" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="55" idObject="28" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="56" idObject="29" inUse="false" mx="0.048118" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="57" idObject="31" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="58" idObject="25" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="59" idObject="26" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="60" idObject="22" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <spline id="61" idObject="27" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="62" idObject="21" inUse="false" mx="0.132292" my="0.264583" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+            <point id="68" idObject="1" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+            <point id="69" idObject="3" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+            <spline id="77" idObject="75" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <spline id="78" idObject="76" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
+            <point id="79" idObject="9" inUse="false" mx="-1.87302" my="-1.38685" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+        </modeling>
+        <details>
+            <detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="63" mx="0" my="0" name="leggings" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{1946f5d0-5abb-4195-b087-a0ad04f3dd4d}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
+                <data annotation="" foldPosition="" fontSize="0" height="5" letter="A" mx="-582.377" my="292.579" onFold="false" orientation="" quantity="2" rotation="0" rotationWay="" tilt="" visible="true" width="5">
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="6" text="%pLetter%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="true" italic="false" sfIncrement="2" text="%pName%"/>
+                    <line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity%"/>
+                </data>
+                <patternInfo fontSize="0" height="5" mx="-584.801" my="102.867" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
+                <grainline arrows="2" bottomPin="69" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="68" visible="true"/>
+                <nodes>
+                    <node after=" 2.5" idObject="62" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="77" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node after="2.5" before="2.5" idObject="43" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="78" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node before="2.5" idObject="79" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="45" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="46" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="47" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="48" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="49" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="50" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node angle="5" idObject="51" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node angle="4" idObject="55" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="56" passmark="true" passmarkAngle="straightforward" passmarkLine="one" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="57" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="58" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="59" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                    <node idObject="60" type="NodePoint"/>
+                    <node idObject="61" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+                </nodes>
+                <pins>
+                    <record>68</record>
+                    <record>69</record>
+                </pins>
+            </detail>
+        </details>
+        <groups/>
+    </draw>
+</pattern>