Added new drafting method: Blair's

4 files changed, 112 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7936b21
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit
@@ -0,0 +1,37 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<vit>
+    <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+    <version>0.5.2</version>
+    <read-only>false</read-only>
+    <notes/>
+    <unit>cm</unit>
+    <pm_system>998</pm_system>
+    <personal>
+        <customer/>
+        <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date>
+        <gender>unknown</gender>
+        <email/>
+    </personal>
+    <body-measurements>
+        <m name="neck_circ" value="30"/>
+        <m name="bust_circ" value="86"/>
+        <m name="waist_circ" value="61"/>
+        <m name="neck_back_to_waist_front" value="50"/>
+        <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="36"/>
+        <m name="shoulder_tip_to_waist_back" value="37"/>
+        <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="22"/>
+        <m name="across_chest_f" value="33"/>
+        <m name="across_back_b" value="29"/>
+        <m name="shoulder_length" value="14"/>
+        <m name="arm_upper_circ" value="30"/>
+        <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent" value="60"/>
+        <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent" value="41"/>
+        <m full_name="Outside Arm's Eye to Elbow" name="@outside_arm_to_elbow" value="34"/>
+        <m full_name="Inside Arm's Eye to Elbow" name="@inside_arm_to_elbow" value="24"/>
+        <m name="arm_elbow_circ_bent" value="30"/>
+        <m name="hip_circ" value="97"/>
+        <m name="bust_to_waist_f" value="15"/>
+        <m name="hand_circ" value="20"/>
+        <m name="arm_armpit_to_wrist" value="48"/>
+    </body-measurements>
+</vit>
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0b97cf8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,74 @@
+Margaret J. Blair's System of Sewing and Garment Drafting.
+==========================================================
+
+This section follows :cite:`1904:blair` and :cite:`1897:blair`.
+
+All measurements have been converted to metric.
+
+Measurements
+------------
+
+The blocks have been converted to metric measures.
+
+All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a
+corset, following the instructions given by the book.
+
+The file :download:`blair.vit` include all the measurements used in
+these blocks and the patterns derived from them.
+
+Instructions on how to take these measurements start from page 69 of
+:cite:`1904:blair`, from which the following illustration is taken, and
+page 11 of :cite:`1897:blair`..
+
+.. figure:: measurements.png
+   :align: center
+
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Blair's              | Valentina                                          |
++======================+=====+==============================================+
+| 1 Neck               | G02 | ``neck_circ``                                |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 2 Bust               | G04 | ``bust_circ``                                |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 3 Waist              | G07 | ``waist_circ``                               |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 4 Front              | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front``                 |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 5 Length of Back     | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b``                     |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 6 Back Balance       | K04 | ``shoulder_tip_to_waist_back``               |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 7 Under Arm          | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side``                     |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 8 Chest              | I03 | ``across_chest_f``                           |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 9 Width of Back      | I08 | ``across_back_b``                            |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 10 Shoulder          | I01 | ``shoulder_length``                          |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 11 Arm's Eye         | L11 | ``arm_upper_circ``                           |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 12 Shoulder to Hand  | L01 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent``           |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 13 Shoulder to Elbow | L02 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent``           |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 14 Outside Arm's…    |     | ``outside_arm_to_elbow``                     |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 15 Inside Arm's…     |     | ``inside_arm_to_elbow``                      |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 16 Elbow             | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent``                      |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 17 Hip               | G09 | ``hip_circ``                                 |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Dart No. 1           | H10 | ``bust_to_waist_f``                          |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Hand Measure         | D05 | ``hand_circ``                                |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Inside Arm           | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist``                      |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+
+Blocks
+------
+
+
+
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a0e9ea9
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst
index 89b8387..53e77f3 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst
@@ -8,4 +8,5 @@ Including, where applicable, blocks and measurement files.
    :maxdepth: 2
    :caption: Contents:
 
+   blairs/index
    cutters/index