From b754d9fb6e5265a2ea0da92ecd0eef26c92fd5f5 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001
From: Elena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>
Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2023 20:09:29 +0100
Subject: Added new drafting method: Blair's
---
.../drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit | 37 +++++++++++
.../drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst | 74 +++++++++++++++++++++
.../drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png | Bin 0 -> 137162 bytes
.../drafting_methods/index.rst | 1 +
4 files changed, 112 insertions(+)
create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit
create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst
create mode 100644 source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png
(limited to 'source/historical_womenswear')
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7936b21
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/blair.vit
@@ -0,0 +1,37 @@
+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
+<vit>
+ <!--Measurements created with Valentina v0.7.52.0 (https://smart-pattern.com.ua/).-->
+ <version>0.5.2</version>
+ <read-only>false</read-only>
+ <notes/>
+ <unit>cm</unit>
+ <pm_system>998</pm_system>
+ <personal>
+ <customer/>
+ <birth-date>1800-01-01</birth-date>
+ <gender>unknown</gender>
+ <email/>
+ </personal>
+ <body-measurements>
+ <m name="neck_circ" value="30"/>
+ <m name="bust_circ" value="86"/>
+ <m name="waist_circ" value="61"/>
+ <m name="neck_back_to_waist_front" value="50"/>
+ <m name="neck_back_to_waist_b" value="36"/>
+ <m name="shoulder_tip_to_waist_back" value="37"/>
+ <m name="armpit_to_waist_side" value="22"/>
+ <m name="across_chest_f" value="33"/>
+ <m name="across_back_b" value="29"/>
+ <m name="shoulder_length" value="14"/>
+ <m name="arm_upper_circ" value="30"/>
+ <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent" value="60"/>
+ <m name="arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent" value="41"/>
+ <m full_name="Outside Arm's Eye to Elbow" name="@outside_arm_to_elbow" value="34"/>
+ <m full_name="Inside Arm's Eye to Elbow" name="@inside_arm_to_elbow" value="24"/>
+ <m name="arm_elbow_circ_bent" value="30"/>
+ <m name="hip_circ" value="97"/>
+ <m name="bust_to_waist_f" value="15"/>
+ <m name="hand_circ" value="20"/>
+ <m name="arm_armpit_to_wrist" value="48"/>
+ </body-measurements>
+</vit>
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0b97cf8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,74 @@
+Margaret J. Blair's System of Sewing and Garment Drafting.
+==========================================================
+
+This section follows :cite:`1904:blair` and :cite:`1897:blair`.
+
+All measurements have been converted to metric.
+
+Measurements
+------------
+
+The blocks have been converted to metric measures.
+
+All measurements should be taken on top of basic underwear, including a
+corset, following the instructions given by the book.
+
+The file :download:`blair.vit` include all the measurements used in
+these blocks and the patterns derived from them.
+
+Instructions on how to take these measurements start from page 69 of
+:cite:`1904:blair`, from which the following illustration is taken, and
+page 11 of :cite:`1897:blair`..
+
+.. figure:: measurements.png
+ :align: center
+
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Blair's | Valentina |
++======================+=====+==============================================+
+| 1 Neck | G02 | ``neck_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 2 Bust | G04 | ``bust_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 3 Waist | G07 | ``waist_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 4 Front | O01 | ``neck_back_to_waist_front`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 5 Length of Back | H19 | ``neck_back_to_waist_b`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 6 Back Balance | K04 | ``shoulder_tip_to_waist_back`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 7 Under Arm | H03 | ``armpit_to_waist_side`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 8 Chest | I03 | ``across_chest_f`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 9 Width of Back | I08 | ``across_back_b`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 10 Shoulder | I01 | ``shoulder_length`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 11 Arm's Eye | L11 | ``arm_upper_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 12 Shoulder to Hand | L01 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 13 Shoulder to Elbow | L02 | ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 14 Outside Arm's… | | ``outside_arm_to_elbow`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 15 Inside Arm's… | | ``inside_arm_to_elbow`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 16 Elbow | L04 | ``arm_elbow_circ_bent`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| 17 Hip | G09 | ``hip_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Dart No. 1 | H10 | ``bust_to_waist_f`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Hand Measure | D05 | ``hand_circ`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+| Inside Arm | L08 | ``arm_armpit_to_wrist`` |
++----------------------+-----+----------------------------------------------+
+
+Blocks
+------
+
+
+
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a0e9ea9
Binary files /dev/null and b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/blairs/measurements.png differ
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst
index 89b8387..53e77f3 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/index.rst
@@ -8,4 +8,5 @@ Including, where applicable, blocks and measurement files.
:maxdepth: 2
:caption: Contents:
+ blairs/index
cutters/index
--
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