Further work on the jacket

1 files changed, 22 insertions, 5 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/1880s_sportswear_jacket/index.rst b/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/1880s_sportswear_jacket/index.rst
index 3f0af99..3af3fa8 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/1880s_sportswear_jacket/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/jackets/1880s_sportswear_jacket/index.rst
@@ -11,7 +11,7 @@ from 1892, but tends to show shapes more typical of the natural form and
 second bustle eras
 
 Most of the jacket is sewn by machine with just straight stitches (so an
-historical threadle or hand cranked machine could be used), with few
+historical threadle or hand cranked machine could be used), with
 handstitched finishing seams. Handstitching the full jacket is also an
 option, if you don't have a machine: in that case use either a
 backstitch or running backstitch on all machine sewn seams.
@@ -20,10 +20,11 @@ Note that this isn't a full pattern: there is a drafted block (or you
 can use a similarly shaped one you already have) and there are
 instructions on how to develop and then sew the jacket from that.
 
-Inspiratons
------------
+Inspiratons and additional sources
+----------------------------------
 
 * :cite:`1892:cutters`, Fig. 15, The BeatricePlate 5a. 
+* :cite:`1896:elements`
 
 
 Materials
@@ -99,15 +100,31 @@ herringbone stitch taking care to only catch the lining.
 You may have to clip the allowances to let it lie flat on the curves,
 but try to avoid cutting into them as much as possible, as the wide
 allowances are very useful in case you need to adapt the jacket to body
-shape changes in the future.
+shape changes in the future. Using a steam iron to help the fabric
+follow the curves can be useful, especially with wool.
 
-Pin and baste the side and shoulder seams.
+Pin and baste the side seam, starting from the waist and allowing for
+any lenght difference at the two edges. Also pin and baste the shoulder
+seams, easing the longer back into the front.
 
 While wearing your full underwear and supports, try on the jacket,
 pinning the center fronts together, and adjust the fit as needed.
 
 Mark the position for the welt pockets above the bust.
 
+Sleeves
+^^^^^^^
+
+Pin, baste and sew the underarm (shorter) seam on both sleeves. 
+
+Press open, and fell down the allowances.
+
+Pin the outer seam, baste it starting from the top and down to about 2
+cm above the wrist; baste it starting from the wrist and finally gather
+the excess from the upper part in the remaining length. Sew, press and
+fell down the allowances.
+
+
 
 Gallery
 -------