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authorElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2024-02-08 09:55:07 +0100
committerElena ``of Valhalla'' Grandi <valhalla@trueelena.org>2024-02-08 09:55:07 +0100
commit91dd77249918855f741039fc0e8d5f43b7bd76f6 (patch)
tree82f709298f590b083e4a56f62dce9fe066a1b3bf /source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods
parent0b2105383a09b52b13de9a98ba2d8a0adfc992e4 (diff)
Armscye fixes on the vest
Diffstat (limited to 'source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods')
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest.val104
-rw-r--r--source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest_single_breasted.val116
2 files changed, 108 insertions, 112 deletions
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest.val b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest.val
index 5470977..3b76bea 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest.val
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest.val
@@ -59,9 +59,7 @@
<arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="120" center="30" color="cornflowerblue" id="31" penStyle="hair" radius="highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_front - RadiusArc_A1_8 - Line_A2q_Afinger" type="simple"/>
<arc aScale="0" angle1="160" angle2="200" center="29" color="cornflowerblue" id="32" penStyle="hair" radius="armfold_to_armfold_bust / 4 + 0.6" type="simple"/>
<point crossPoint="1" firstArc="31" id="33" mx="-2.39021" my="-1.40153" name="AD" secondArc="32" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/>
- <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="270" color="black" id="34" length1="2" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="11" point4="30" type="simpleInteractive"/>
<line firstPoint="33" id="35" lineColor="black" secondPoint="29" typeLine="hair"/>
- <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="AngleLine_AD_AF - 90" color="black" id="36" length1="5" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="30" point4="33" type="simpleInteractive"/>
<point angle="0" basePoint="29" id="37" length="neck_circ / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="AV" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
<point id="38" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="Aeee" p1Line1="37" p1Line2="3" p2Line1="25" p2Line2="24" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
<point firstPoint="24" id="39" length="CurrentLength - waist_circ / 4 - #ease / 4" lineColor="cornflowerblue" mx="-6.06291" my="2.29511" name="Atotal_darts" secondPoint="38" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
@@ -89,45 +87,46 @@
<spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_AD_AF - 80" angle2="AngleLine_AV_Aeee - 180" color="black" id="86" length1="10" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="29" point4="25" type="simpleInteractive"/>
<point firstPoint="6" id="122" mx="0.864136" my="-1.90141" name="A9" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
<point firstPoint="29" id="123" mx="-3.03296" my="-2.80074" name="A26" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersection"/>
+ <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_AD_AF - 90" color="black" id="128" length1="10" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="11" point4="33" type="simpleInteractive"/>
</calculation>
<modeling>
- <point id="65" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <spline id="66" idObject="22" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="67" idObject="6" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="68" idObject="10" inUse="false" mx="-0.0270999" my="-2.42273" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <spline id="69" idObject="64" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="70" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="71" idObject="12" inUse="false" mx="0.760082" my="-0.428956" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="72" idObject="4" inUse="false" mx="-2.29549" my="0.0665426" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="73" idObject="7" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="75" idObject="61" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <spline id="76" idObject="15" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="77" idObject="14" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <spline id="78" idObject="16" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="79" idObject="62" inUse="false" mx="-1.38708" my="0.562041" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="80" idObject="19" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <spline id="81" idObject="20" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="82" idObject="17" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <spline id="83" idObject="21" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="84" idObject="18" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="87" idObject="33" inUse="false" mx="-2.39021" my="-1.40153" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="88" idObject="29" inUse="false" mx="-1.36255" my="-2.001" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <spline id="89" idObject="86" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="90" idObject="25" inUse="false" mx="0.17419" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="91" idObject="38" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="92" idObject="56" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="93" idObject="55" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="94" idObject="24" inUse="false" mx="-2.73751" my="-1.92011" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="95" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="65" idObject="1" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="66" idObject="22" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="67" idObject="6" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="68" idObject="10" inUse="true" mx="-0.0270999" my="-2.42273" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="69" idObject="64" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="70" idObject="11" inUse="true" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="71" idObject="12" inUse="true" mx="0.760082" my="-0.428956" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="72" idObject="4" inUse="true" mx="-2.29549" my="0.0665426" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="73" idObject="7" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="75" idObject="61" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="76" idObject="15" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="77" idObject="14" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="78" idObject="16" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="79" idObject="62" inUse="true" mx="-1.38708" my="0.562041" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="80" idObject="19" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="81" idObject="20" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="82" idObject="17" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="83" idObject="21" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="84" idObject="18" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="87" idObject="33" inUse="true" mx="-2.39021" my="-1.40153" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="88" idObject="29" inUse="true" mx="-1.36255" my="-2.001" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <spline id="89" idObject="86" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
+ <point id="90" idObject="25" inUse="true" mx="0.17419" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="91" idObject="38" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="92" idObject="56" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="93" idObject="55" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="94" idObject="24" inUse="true" mx="-2.73751" my="-1.92011" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="95" idObject="11" inUse="true" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
<spline id="96" idObject="34" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
<point id="97" idObject="30" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
<spline id="98" idObject="36" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="107" idObject="57" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="108" idObject="43" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="109" idObject="50" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="110" idObject="42" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="111" idObject="58" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="112" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="side_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+ <point id="107" idObject="57" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="108" idObject="43" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="109" idObject="50" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="110" idObject="42" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="111" idObject="58" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="112" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="side_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
<nodes>
<node idObject="107" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="108" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -136,12 +135,12 @@
<node idObject="111" type="NodePoint"/>
</nodes>
</path>
- <point id="113" idObject="59" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="114" idObject="41" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="115" idObject="47" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="116" idObject="40" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="117" idObject="60" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="118" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="front_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+ <point id="113" idObject="59" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="114" idObject="41" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="115" idObject="47" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="116" idObject="40" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="117" idObject="60" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="118" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="front_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
<nodes>
<node idObject="113" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="114" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -150,18 +149,19 @@
<node idObject="117" type="NodePoint"/>
</nodes>
</path>
- <point id="119" idObject="24" inUse="false" mx="-2.73751" my="-1.92011" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <point id="120" idObject="38" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="121" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="waistline" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1">
+ <point id="119" idObject="24" inUse="true" mx="-2.73751" my="-1.92011" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="120" idObject="38" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="121" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="waistline" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1">
<nodes>
<node idObject="119" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="120" type="NodePoint"/>
</nodes>
</path>
- <point id="124" idObject="6" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
- <point id="125" idObject="122" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
- <point id="126" idObject="29" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
- <point id="127" idObject="123" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="124" idObject="6" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="125" idObject="122" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="126" idObject="29" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="127" idObject="123" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+ <spline id="129" idObject="128" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
</modeling>
<details>
<detail forbidFlipping="false" forceFlipping="false" hideMainPath="false" id="74" mx="0" my="0" name="back" seamAllowance="true" uuid="{b1d0d5dd-475a-4f02-b7a1-7f5a4b496642}" version="2" width="#sewing_allowance">
@@ -216,7 +216,7 @@
<line alignment="4" bold="false" italic="false" sfIncrement="0" text="%mFabric%, %wCut% %pQuantity% %wOnFold%"/>
</data>
<patternInfo fontSize="0" height="10" mx="1453.9" my="1132.12" rotation="0" visible="true" width="10"/>
- <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="127" length="1" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="126" visible="true"/>
+ <grainline arrows="0" bottomPin="127" length="10" mx="0" my="0" rotation="90" topPin="126" visible="true"/>
<nodes>
<node idObject="87" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="88" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -227,9 +227,7 @@
<node idObject="93" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="94" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="95" type="NodePoint"/>
- <node idObject="96" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
- <node idObject="97" type="NodePoint"/>
- <node idObject="98" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+ <node idObject="129" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
</nodes>
<iPaths>
<record path="112"/>
diff --git a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest_single_breasted.val b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest_single_breasted.val
index 47eb1f7..3321df0 100644
--- a/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest_single_breasted.val
+++ b/source/historical_womenswear/drafting_methods/cutters/vest_single_breasted.val
@@ -59,9 +59,7 @@
<arc aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="120" center="30" color="cornflowerblue" id="31" penStyle="hair" radius="highbust_back_over_shoulder_to_armfold_front - RadiusArc_A1_8 - Line_A2q_Afinger" type="simple"/>
<arc aScale="0" angle1="160" angle2="200" center="29" color="cornflowerblue" id="32" penStyle="hair" radius="armfold_to_armfold_bust / 4 + 0.6" type="simple"/>
<point crossPoint="1" firstArc="31" id="33" mx="-2.39021" my="-1.40153" name="AD" secondArc="32" showLabel="true" type="pointOfIntersectionArcs"/>
- <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="270" color="black" id="34" length1="2" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="11" point4="30" type="simpleInteractive"/>
<line firstPoint="33" id="35" lineColor="black" secondPoint="29" typeLine="hair"/>
- <spline aScale="0" angle1="90" angle2="AngleLine_AD_AF - 80" color="black" id="36" length1="12" length2="2" penStyle="hair" point1="30" point4="33" type="simpleInteractive"/>
<point angle="0" basePoint="29" id="37" length="neck_circ / 6" lineColor="black" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="AV" showLabel="true" type="endLine" typeLine="hair"/>
<point id="38" mx="-0.634747" my="0.596726" name="Aeee" p1Line1="37" p1Line2="3" p2Line1="25" p2Line2="24" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
<point firstPoint="24" id="39" length="CurrentLength - waist_circ / 4 - #ease / 4" lineColor="cornflowerblue" mx="-6.06291" my="2.29511" name="Atotal_darts" secondPoint="38" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
@@ -93,45 +91,46 @@
<point firstPoint="38" id="129" length="-#button_stand" lineColor="black" mx="0.964062" my="0.396875" name="A28" secondPoint="3" showLabel="true" type="alongLine" typeLine="none"/>
<point id="130" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" name="A29" p1Line1="128" p1Line2="55" p2Line1="129" p2Line2="56" showLabel="true" type="lineIntersect"/>
<spline aScale="0" angle1="AngleLine_AD_AF - 80" angle2="AngleLine_AV_Aeee - 180" color="black" id="131" length1="10" length2="5" penStyle="hair" point1="29" point4="128" type="simpleInteractive"/>
+ <spline aScale="0" angle1="0" angle2="AngleLine_AD_AF - 90" color="black" id="139" length1="10" length2="6" penStyle="hair" point1="11" point4="33" type="simpleInteractive"/>
</calculation>
<modeling>
- <point id="65" idObject="1" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
- <spline id="66" idObject="22" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
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- <spline id="69" idObject="64" inUse="false" type="modelingSpline"/>
- <point id="70" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
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- <point id="77" idObject="14" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
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- <point id="84" idObject="18" inUse="false" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
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- <point id="90" idObject="25" inUse="false" mx="0.17419" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
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- <point id="95" idObject="11" inUse="false" mx="0.17419" my="0.306482" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
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- <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="112" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="side_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
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+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="112" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="side_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
<nodes>
<node idObject="107" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="108" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -140,12 +139,12 @@
<node idObject="111" type="NodePoint"/>
</nodes>
</path>
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- <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="118" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="front_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
+ <point id="113" idObject="59" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
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+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="118" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="front_dart" type="2" typeLine="dotLine" visible="1">
<nodes>
<node idObject="113" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="114" type="NodePoint"/>
@@ -154,30 +153,31 @@
<node idObject="117" type="NodePoint"/>
</nodes>
</path>
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- <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="121" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="waistline" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1">
+ <point id="119" idObject="24" inUse="true" mx="-2.73751" my="-1.92011" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <point id="120" idObject="38" inUse="true" mx="0.264583" my="0.396875" showLabel="true" type="modeling"/>
+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="121" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="waistline" type="2" typeLine="dashDotLine" visible="1">
<nodes>
<node idObject="119" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="120" type="NodePoint"/>
</nodes>
</path>
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- <point id="125" idObject="122" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
- <point id="126" idObject="29" inUse="false" type="pin"/>
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- <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="138" inUse="false" lastToCountour="true" name="center_front" type="2" typeLine="dashDotDotLine" visible="1">
+ <point id="124" idObject="6" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="125" idObject="122" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
+ <point id="126" idObject="29" inUse="true" type="pin"/>
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+ <path cut="false" firstToCountour="true" id="138" inUse="true" lastToCountour="true" name="center_front" type="2" typeLine="dashDotDotLine" visible="1">
<nodes>
<node idObject="136" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="137" type="NodePoint"/>
</nodes>
</path>
+ <spline id="140" idObject="139" inUse="true" type="modelingSpline"/>
</modeling>
<details>
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@@ -247,9 +247,7 @@
<node idObject="93" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="94" type="NodePoint"/>
<node idObject="95" type="NodePoint"/>
- <node idObject="96" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
- <node idObject="97" type="NodePoint"/>
- <node idObject="98" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
+ <node idObject="140" reverse="0" type="NodeSpline"/>
</nodes>
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<record path="112"/>