Collection of menswear collars

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+1880s Shirt
+===========
+
+.. figure:: 
+   :align: center
+
+.. only:: html
+
+   .. contents::
+
+
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* Leftovers of linen or cotton shirting fabric;
+* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing or linen canvas.
+
+If using linen or another crisp fabric you can use the same fabric also
+as interfacing, especially if you plan to starch the collars when
+wearing them.
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* buttonhole thread to match the fabric.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern, :download:`collars.val`.
+
+There is no measurement file, but you need to set the following
+measurements in the table of variables in Valentina to change the
+styling:
+
+``collar_circumference``
+   circumference of the collar, as measured on the shirt you want to use
+   this collar with;
+``stand_height``
+   height of the stand, for two parts collars, or the full collar for
+   standing collars: change this for the desired style;
+``collar_height``
+   height of the collar proper: change this for the desired style;
+``front_angle``
+   angle of the front of the collar;
+
+as well as the following ones, for which the defaults are usually fine:
+
+``rise_of_curve``
+   how much the back of the collar should rise compared to the front to
+   follow the curve of the neck: the default of 2.5 cm is usually
+   sensible;
+``buttons_overlap``
+   how much the collar should overlap for buttoning;
+``stand_rounding``
+   how much the front of the stand should be rounded (or the line of the
+   collar should go back);
+``sewing_allowance``
+   the default sewing allowance; if sewing by hand you can make it
+   as small as you can manage.
+
+In the Details screen select the pieces you want to print: A and B for a
+two piece collar, or one of C or D for a single piece collar
+(respectively straight or curved)
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+For either kind of collar cut all pieces on the fold, twice in the fabric
+and twice in the interlining material.
+
+.. tip::
+   If it helps using more of the fabric you can cut one of the
+   interlining layers in two pieces: don't add a sewing allowance in the
+   middle, but just put them side to side and either sew them together
+   by machine with a zig-zag or by hand with a herringbone stitch.
+
+Simple collar
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Put one layer of interlining at the bottom, the two layers of fabric,
+right sides together, and one layer of interlining on top.
+
+Sew all around the sides and top of the collar. If necessary trim the
+interlining to reduce bulk.
+
+Press carefully, turn inside out.
+
+Press the bottom edge up, whipstitch it closed by hand.
+
+Continue with the finishing steps.
+
+Two parts collars
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Take the collar pieces and put one layer of interlining at the bottom,
+the two layers of fabric, right sides together, and one layer of
+interlining on top.
+
+Sew all around the sides and top of the collar. If necessary trim the
+interlining to reduce bulk.
+
+Press carefully, turn inside out.
+
+Take also the stand pieces and put one layer of interlining at the
+bottom, one layer of fabric (right side on top), the collar, the other
+layer of fabric (right side below), the final layer of interlining.
+
+Sew around the sides and top. Trim the allowances.
+
+Press carefully, turn inside out.
+
+Press the bottom edge up, whipstitch it closed by hand.
+
+Continue with the finishing steps.
+
+Finishing
+^^^^^^^^^
+
+Make buttonholes of a size appropriate for the buttons you have on your
+shirts close to the bottom edge of the collar (in the stand for two
+parts collars): one in the middle (center back) and two close to the
+ends that will close in the center front.
+
+Gallery
+-------
+
+.. figure:: 
+   :align: center