Rename shirt to refer to the decade, not year

1 files changed, 629 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..93e7896
--- /dev/null
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880s_shirt/index.rst
@@ -0,0 +1,629 @@
+1880s Shirt
+===========
+
+.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-773.svg
+   :align: center
+
+A gentleman's shirt based on the instructions on `Beeton's housewife's
+treasury of domestic information
+<https://archive.org/details/gri_33125012088023/page/718/mode/2up>`_
+from around 1880.
+
+While assembling the shirt is a relatively easy project, the pattern
+instructions are from a vintage book (and not one of the best, either),
+so it will require more adjustments to fit the target body than usual
+for a modern pattern.
+
+Before making this shirt in expensive fabric you will need to make a
+mock-up, and even when using relatively cheap cotton shirting you may
+want to make a mock up of the shoulder piece.
+
+This pattern is probably good for a relatively wide range of dates: I've
+seen on the internet grainy scans of ads from the 1860 that seem to use
+a pattern like this one, and it should work up to the Edwardian era, but
+you will have to do some research on the appropriate shapes of the front
+opening and especially collar and cuffs for each era.
+
+I believe that the original instructions assumed that this shirt would
+be hand sewn, but by the 1880s sewing machines in the home were most
+definitely a thing (and they are mentioned in a later chapter of the
+book).
+
+If you want to use a machine, your options are to sew by machine
+everywhere the instructions say to backstitch and handsew everything
+else (this option looks pretty close to a fully handsewn garment), or to
+sew by machine the backstitched seams and topstitch every time the
+instructions say to hemstitch or applique stitch something; for
+historical accuracy buttonholes should still be done by hand, however,
+unless that's not a concern.
+
+The pictures in this page are of a shirt where the backstitching is done
+by machine, and everything else by hand.
+
+Materials
+---------
+
+Fabric
+^^^^^^
+
+* About 2 m of linen or cotton shirting fabric;
+* 10 - 15 cm sew-in interfacing for collars and cuffs (optional).
+
+Notions
+^^^^^^^
+
+* sewing thread to match the fabric;
+* buttonhole thread to match the fabric;
+* 5 or more small buttons.
+
+Pattern
+-------
+
+Measurements
+^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+You need to take the following measurements:
+
+``height_neck_back_to_knee`` (A18)
+   vertical distance from the back of the neck to the knee;
+``neck_circ`` (G02)
+   circumference of the neck;
+``bust_circ`` (G04)
+   circumference of the torso, just below the armholes;
+``neck_front_to_waist_f`` (H01)
+   vertical distance from the front of the neck to the waist;
+``neck_side_to_waist_f`` (H05)
+   vertical distance from the side of the neck to the waist in the
+   front;
+``neck_back_to_waist_b`` (H19)
+   vertical distance from the back of the neck to the waist;
+``shoulder_length`` (I01)
+   distance from the side of the neck to the tip of the shoulder;
+``shoulder_tip_to_shoulder_tip_b`` (I07)
+   distance from one shoulder tip to the other one;
+``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` (L01)
+   distance from the shoulder tip to the wrist, following a bent arm;
+``arm_wrist_circ`` (L15)
+   circumference of the wrist;
+
+refer to the diagram in Valentina Tape for how to take them, and the
+file :download:`shirt.vit` is used by default by the pattern file and
+has the list of needed measurements.
+
+Pattern
+^^^^^^^
+
+Get the valentina file for the pattern, :download:`1880_shirt.val`.
+
+You also need to decide the following measurements and set them in the
+table of variables in Valentina; most defaults in the file are sensible,
+but you probably want to change the ``shirt_width`` so that it fits
+nicely on your fabric with as little waste as possible:
+
+``shirt_length_back``
+   usually equals ``height_neck_back_to_knee``;
+``shirt_length_front``
+   a bit shorter (8-10 cm) than the back;
+``shirt_width``
+   the flat width of the shirt: historically this would have been the
+   width of the fabric (something like 90 - 100 cm would be typical),
+   and today using half the width of the fabric (70-80 cm) can work fine;
+``front_slit_length``
+   the length of the slit (and pleated part) in front: this can easily
+   be as long as the ``neck_front_to_waist_f`` measurement
+``button_placket_width``
+   the finished width of the button placket; 2.5 cm or to taste;
+``ease``
+   the total ease around the chest, used to calculate the following two
+   variables;
+``front_slit_width``
+   the width that is cut in the front for the slit: this should be at
+   least 15 cm wide for a 2.5 cm button placket and the rest will be
+   pleated;
+``front_gathers_width``
+   the final width to which the material in the front slit is pleated /
+   gathered: at least the width of the button placket;
+``front_band_height``
+   the band that covers the pleats and gathers in the front: 4 cm, or to
+   taste;
+``yoke_depth``
+   from the nape of the neck to where the yoke ends in the back, to taste;
+``cuff_length``
+   length of the cuff: 9 cm or to taste, or 2 cm for a cuff band used
+   with detached cuffs;
+``sleeve_length``
+   length of the sleeve: ``arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent`` minus half
+   the cuff, or to taste according to how puffed you want the sleeve to
+   be;
+``sleeve_width``
+   the basic width of the sleeve, before dealing with the gussets: this
+   is often half the ``shirt_width``;
+``sleeve_wrist_circumference``
+   the desired circumference of the sleeve at the wrist, before
+   gathering it into the cuff;
+``sleeve_slit``
+   the length of the slit at the wrist: 6 cm or to taste;
+``collar_band_height``
+   the height of the collar band, to be used with a detachable collar: 2
+   cm is usually fine;
+``sewing_allowance``
+   the default sewing allowance, as small as you can manage, remembering
+   that many seams are sewn and felled, so the fabric will have to be
+   cut with double this allowance on one side: for hand sewing on thin
+   fabric 4-6 mm, machine sewing and thicker fabric will require a bit
+   more.
+
+The valentina file also has a few more intermediate variables that are
+used to calculate the ``front_slit_width`` and ``front_gathers_width``
+from the given ``bust_circ``, ``shirt_width`` and ``ease``: you can
+ignore them.
+
+The file is set up not to print the front, back and sleeves details, as
+those are mostly big rectangles: you can get their measurements in Draw
+mode as follows:
+
+back:
+   a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A2) and as high as
+   ``shirt_length_back`` (A – A1);
+front:
+   a rectangle as wide as ``shirt_width`` (A – A9) and as high as
+   ``shirt_lenght_front`` (A — A8);
+sleeves:
+   the final sleeve shape is an isosceles trapezium with and height of
+   ``sleeve_length`` (A – A25), a short base of
+   ``sleeve_wrist_circumference`` (A28 – A29) and a long base that adds
+   to ``sleeve_width`` the same amount that has been taken away by the
+   other base (A30 – A31): the most efficient way however is to cut a
+   rectangle that is as high as ``sleeve_length`` and twice as wide as
+   ``sleeve_width``, and adjust the sides with gussets as explained
+   below.
+
+This pattern also includes just a collar band, which is used with
+detached collars; you can of course add a full collar from any other
+source. There is however a choice between a straight collar band (as
+used in the book) and a more fitted curved collar band.
+
+Instructions
+------------
+
+Pattern adjustments
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+Print the shoulder piece pattern and try it on; make any adjustments to
+it so that it lies nicely, the neck curve follows the base of the neck
+and arrives almost, but not quite, to the neck base in front, leaving
+the space for the button placket.
+
+You probably need to make a fabric mockup for these checks, and then
+bring the changes back to the pattern to cut the final pieces.
+
+Cutting
+^^^^^^^
+
+.. tip::
+
+   While cutting, you want to be really sure that the rectangular
+   pieces are cut on the grain: if the fabric allows it you can rip
+   them, otherwise try to cut it by following a thread.
+
+Cut the full rectangles for the front and back.
+
+.. figure:: 0101-marking_armholes.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+If you already have done a shirt in this size, and have the :ref:`paper
+pattern for the armscyes <1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:>`, mark the seam
+lines on the front and back, and if you want cut them with a double
+seaming allowance.
+
+.. figure:: gri_33125012088023-770.svg
+   :align: center
+
+If the fabric is non-directional and has no right and wrong side, the
+best way to cut the sleeves is as described on the book: fold the
+rectangle in such a way that the sides will meet precisely in the center
+and baste them together, then fold them in such a way that the distance
+a – g and h – c is the desired width at the cuff, and cut all layers of
+fabric along the fold.
+
+.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern.svg
+   :align: center
+
+After re-opening the fabric, you will get the shape in figure, and you
+will have to attach the small gusset to one side of the sleeve to
+complete the trapezium. Note that because of the sewing allowances this
+won't be a precise match, but the tolerance in this pattern is enough
+for it not to be a problem.
+
+.. figure:: sleeve_cutting_pattern-directional.svg
+   :align: center
+
+If the fabric is directional or simply has a defined right and wrong
+side, you probably need to cut gussets from the wrist side of both sides
+of the sleeves and sew them to the shoulder sides, as in the above
+schematic.
+
+.. figure:: 0102-cutting_tongue.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+   The tongue can be cut from one of the small scraps that remain when
+   cutting the shoulder piece.
+
+Cut four of the shoulder pieces, two of the front bands, two of each
+collar piece, four of each cuff piece and two of the tongue.
+
+If your fabric requires it, cut two or four cuff pieces also in
+interfacing, and one or two collar pieces if not using a simple collar
+band.
+
+Keep all scraps, as you will need them later to cut some small
+reinforcement patches.
+
+Collar and Cuffs
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0201-sew_collar.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put the collar band pieces right sides together, backstitch the sides
+and top, leaving the bottom free to attach it to the shirt.
+
+.. figure:: 0202-pressed_collar.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press.
+
+.. note::
+
+   If making a full collar rather than a collar band refer to its
+   construction instructions, and you will probably need to add one or
+   two layers of interfacing.
+
+.. figure:: 0203-sew_cuffs.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put two cuff pieces right sides together (with the optional interfacing
+on top), backstitch the sides and front (the shorter base of the
+trapezium), leaving the other base free to attach it to the sleeve.
+
+.. figure:: 0204-press_cuffs.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press the seam, clip the corners, turn inside out and press.
+
+.. figure:: 0205-tongue.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Prepare also the tongue for the front: with right sides facing
+backstitch all around the tongue except for the top, press, trim the
+corners and clip the curves, turn inside out and press again.
+Make a buttonhole in the tongue.
+
+Front
+^^^^^
+
+Cut the vertical and horizontal lines of the slit in the front.
+
+.. figure:: 0301-folded_pleats.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+On both sides, fold the width of the button placket (e.g. 2.5 cm) twice
+towards the front.
+
+.. note::
+
+   This will show the wrong side of the fabric as the button placket,
+   and looks just fine with most shirting fabric that has no distinct
+   right or wrong side.
+
+   If your fabric has a difference and the result doesn't look good, you
+   can fold the button placket towards the back and hemstitch it in
+   place instead of applique stitching it.
+
+Fold the rest of each half of the front in two or three pleats, pointing
+outside from the center of the shirt, so that each side measures half
+the ``front_gathers_width`` measured from the *center* of the placket
+(as the two plackets will be sewn on top of each other).  Overlap the
+pleats a tiny bit to hide their seams.
+
+Press everything.
+
+.. figure:: 0302-sewn_pleats.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Backstitch the pleats by following the crease line.
+
+
+.. figure:: 0303-sewn_plackets.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Hemstitch the *right* placket over the seam of the first pleat, hidden
+below the placket itself. Press back the placket flat.
+
+On just the *left* placket sew two neat lines of backstitches, 4 mm from
+each edge.
+
+Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the bottom
+horizontal edge of the slit for the gathers.
+
+.. figure:: 0304-tongue_and_bands.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put the tongue at the center bottom of one of the two bands, right sides
+together, and backstitch it.
+
+Press all the sewing allowances of the front bands towards the wrong side.
+
+.. figure:: 0305-placket_and_gathers.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Put the left placket on top of the right placket and baste it in place.
+Pull the gathering threads to the same length, pinning the excess thread
+from the wrong side, strike the gathers to make them neater.
+
+.. figure:: 0306-front_band_applique.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+.. figure:: 0307-front_band_gathers.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Pin the band with the tongue on top of the right side so that it covers
+the slit, applique stitch it on the sides and top edge and hem stitch
+the bottom edge over the gathers, catching each gather in a stitch and
+sewing to the underside of the tongue when you reach it.
+
+.. figure:: 0308-back_band_gathers.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Pin the other band to the wrong side of the front and hem stitch it to
+the shirt on all four sides, again catching each gather in a stitch, so
+that the raw edges of the slit are fully encased.
+
+.. figure:: 0309-shoulder_pieces.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Place two shoulder piece on top of each other, backstitch the center
+seam and press open. Repeat with the two other shoulder pieces.
+
+.. figure:: 0310-shoulder_piece_position.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Pin half of the collar to one shoulder piece, starting from the back,
+then pin them to the front in such a way that the collar ends right on
+the placket. Mark the position of the shoulder piece on the front and
+remove the collar from the assembly.
+
+.. figure:: 0311-sewn_shoulder_pieces.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Sandwitch the front between the two shoulder pieces, right sides
+together, in the position measured above, and backstitch the two
+shoulders. Press up.
+
+.. note::
+
+   This isn't the way the shirt was assembled in the original
+   instructions, where the shoulder piece was attached to the back
+   first.
+
+   This way you save one seam, and I believe that it also makes it
+   easier to adjust the armscyes holes to fit.
+
+Back
+^^^^
+
+Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 4 mm and 8 mm from the top
+edge of the back, starting and ending about 18 cm from the sides.
+
+.. figure:: 0401-pinned_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Pin the center of the back to the center of the shoulder piece, put the
+shirt on the intended recipient, pin the front and back sides together
+at the sides and adjust the back to find how wide the gathered part
+should become and how much material should be cut from the shoulder side
+for the armhole.  Write this number (``#armhole_width_back``) in case
+you want to use this pattern again.
+
+.. figure:: 0402-sewing_gathered_back.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Place the back on top of the outer layer of the shoulder piece,
+backstitch the ungathered sides, press all allowances towards the
+shoulder piece.
+Pull the gathering thread and hemstitch or applique stitch the shoulder
+piece to the back, catching each gather in a stitch.
+
+.. figure:: 0403-sewing_inner_shoulder_piece.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Press the allowance of the lining shoulder piece, hemstitch it to the
+back of the shirt. From now on treat the shoulder pieces as one.
+
+.. figure:: 0404-pinned_collar.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Pin the collar band to the shoulder pieces, right sides
+together, backstitch one side of the collar band.
+
+.. tip:
+
+   While sewing the collar, take special care to cover all raw edges
+   where the shoulder piece attaches to the front: after pinning the
+   collar band in place it's probably better to either baste it by hand
+   and then machine sew it, or sew it directly by hand.
+
+Press the allowances towards the collar band, fold down and press the
+remaining edge of the collar and hemstitch it into place to cover all
+raw edges.
+
+Sleeves
+^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0501-allowances_alignment.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, put the gussets on top of their sleeve, aligning
+the edge of the gusset one seam allowance from the edge of the sleeve.
+
+.. figure:: 0502-gusset_sewn.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Backstitch the gusset to the sleeve, press the allowance towards the
+gusset, fold the sleeve allowance down to cover the raw edges and
+hemstitch it to the sleeve.
+
+.. figure:: 0503-sleeve_seam.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Fold the sleeve in half, right sides together, aligning one side at one
+seam allowance from the edge of the other side, backstitch
+
+.. figure:: 0504-sleeve_trimmed.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Trim a bit around the middle of the arm to smoothen the curve between
+the gusset and the sleeve, fold the double allowance down to cover the
+raw edge and hemstitch it to the sleeve. Repeat the same with the other
+sleeve, taking care do make it symmetrical (i.e. to fell the seam in the
+opposite direction).
+
+.. figure:: 0505-cut_sleeve_slit.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Cut the slit one fourth of the way in, towards the back of the sleeve
+(i.e. closest to the hemstitched side), fold down the edges twice and
+hem stitch them down.
+
+.. figure:: 0506-finishing_sleeve_slit.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 3 cm wide, cut them on the
+diagonal into two triangles each, fold down their edges and sew them to
+the top of the slit on both sides, pleating the top so that the slit
+edges are adiacent and using an applique stitch on the outside and a
+hemstitch on the inside.
+
+
+.. figure:: 0507-hemstitching_cuff.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+
+Run two lines of gathering thread close to the end of the sleeve, gather
+it to the length of the cuff. Press down the seaming allowance at the
+edge of the cuff and hemstitch it to the right side of sleeve, catching
+each gather with a stitch.
+
+.. figure:: 0507-hemstitching_cuff_wrong_side.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Hemstitch the cuff to the sleeve also on the wrong side, again catching
+each gather.
+
+.. insert figure: 0508-button_buttonhole.jpg
+
+Add a button to the smaller side of the cuff and a corresponding
+buttonhole to the larger part.
+
+Assembly of the body
+^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+
+.. figure:: 0601-aligning_hem.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Right sides together, align the back and front so that the back is 8–10
+cm longer than the front at the hem (as decided when cutting) and mark a
+point 8–10 cm from the edge of the front: this is where the side seam
+will end.
+
+.. insert figure: 0602-sleeve_measurement.jpg
+
+.. figure:: 0603-armscye_measurement.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Measure the top of the sleeve, measure an armscye hole that is about 2-4
+cm smaller than the sleeve (total circumference) and mark the other end
+of the side seam.
+
+Put the back of the shirt on top of the front, align it so that the back
+is one sewing allowance from the front and backstitch. Fold the double
+allowance down to cover the raw edge and hemstitch.
+
+Hem the shirt: fold down the bottom of the front and back twice,
+mitering the corners and continuing up to the lower end of the side
+seam, and hemstitch.
+
+.. 1880_shirt-marking_armscyes:
+
+Try on the shirt, close the front with pins and mark with chalk a
+reasonable line for the armscye on both the front and back of the shirt.
+
+
+
+Pin and baste one sleeve to the shirt, right sides facing and with the
+sleeve one seam allowance out from the marked edge of the armscye,
+starting from the bottom of the armscye and roughtly gathering the
+excess of fabric of the sleeve in the shoulder piece.
+
+Try the shirt on, check the fit, if needed unpick and baste again.
+
+When the result looks good, place the shirt on top of a piece of paper
+and use a pin to mark the seam line where you basted for both the front
+and the back of the shirt. Clean the pin lines and cut the pattern.
+
+Mark the points on the sleeve where the shoulder piece starts and end,
+save also this measurement on paper, in case you want to make another
+shirt in this size.
+
+.. figure:: 0101-marking_armholes.jpg
+   :align: center
+
+Unpick the basted seam, use the paper pattern to mark the sew line on
+both sides of the shirt.
+
+Run two lines of gathering thread on the top of the sleeves, between the
+points just marked.
+
+.. tip::
+
+   Even when doing straight seams by machine, it is probably easier and
+   quicker to sew the sleeve in by hand, rather than having to baste and
+   sew it, especially when working with a small sewing allowance.
+
+Pin the sleeve to the shirt, again right sides facing and with the
+edge of the sleeve at two seam allowances from the seam line marked on
+the body. Starting just below the shoulder piece backstitch the
+ungathered part of the shirt, then turn it outside, fold the seam
+allowance and applique stitch the top of the sleeve to the shoulder
+piece, catching each gather.
+
+Trim the raw edge of the front and back, leaving one sewing allowance of
+fabric, fold the double seam allowance to cover the raw edge, hemstitch it
+towards the body.
+
+.. note::
+
+   Rather than sewing and felling the sleeve as the original
+   instructions suggested, you may get a neater result by french-seaming
+   it. Cut the shoulder piece with a double seaming allowance (if you
+   want to change it in the valentian pattern it's after point A and
+   before point A67) put the sleeve in with wrong sides facing,
+   backstitch at a bit less than the sewing allowance from the edge,
+   press; turn the sleeve inside out, right sides facing, backstitch the
+   straight part at a bit more than the sewing allowance from the
+   previous seam, turn it right side out and hemstitch the gathered part
+   catching each gather with a stitch.
+
+From the scraps of fabric cut two squares 5 cm wide, cut them in half on
+the diagonal, fold down their edges and sew them as small gussets to the
+bottom of the side seams on both sides, using an applique stitch on the
+outside and a hemstitch on the inside.
+
+Finishing
+^^^^^^^^^
+
+Put a button and buttonhole on the collar band, and at least two more
+button and buttonholes on the front placket.
+
+Done! you can now wear your new shirt, and start making the rest of the
+half dozen :)