Shirt details

1 files changed, 23 insertions, 6 deletions

diff --git a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
index 56061e3..b82ff16 100644
--- a/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
+++ b/source/historical_menswear/shirts/1880_shirt/index.rst
@@ -375,6 +375,9 @@ Pin the other band to the wrong side of the front and hem stitch it to
 the shirt on all four sides, again catching each gather in a stitch, so
 that the raw edges of the slit are fully encased.
 
+Place two shoulder piece on top of each other, backstitch the center
+seam and press open. Repeat with the two other collar pieces.
+
 Pin half of the collar to one shoulder piece, starting from the back,
 then pin them to the front in such a way that the collar ends right on
 the placket. Mark the position of the shoulder piece on the front and
@@ -396,15 +399,15 @@ shoulders. Press up.
 Back
 ^^^^
 
-Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 18 mm and 22 mm from the top
+Run two lines in strong contrasting thread 4 mm and 8 mm from the top
 edge of the back, starting and ending about 18 cm from the sides.
 
 Pin the center of the back to the center of the shoulder piece, put the
 shirt on the intended recipient, pin the front and back sides together
-and adjust the back to find how wide the gathered part should become and
-how much material should be cut from the shoulder side for the armhole.
-Write this number (``#armhole_width_back``) in case you want to use this
-pattern again.
+at the sides and adjust the back to find how wide the gathered part
+should become and how much material should be cut from the shoulder side
+for the armhole.  Write this number (``#armhole_width_back``) in case
+you want to use this pattern again.
 
 Place the back on top of the outer layer of the shoulder piece,
 backstitch the ungathered sides, press the allowance towards the
@@ -413,7 +416,21 @@ pull the gathering thread and hemstitch or applique stitch the shoulder
 piece to the back, catching each gather in a stitch.
 
 Press the allowance of the lining shoulder piece, hemstitch it to the
-back of the shirt.
+back of the shirt. From now on treat the shoulder pieces as one.
+
+Pin the collar band to the shoulder pieces, right sides
+together, backstitch one side of the collar band.
+
+.. tip:
+
+   While sewing the collar, take special care to cover all raw edges
+   where the shoulder piece attaches to the front: after pinning the
+   collar band in place it's probably better to either baste it by hand
+   and then machine sew it, or sew it directly by hand.
+
+Press the allowances towards the collar band, fold down and press the
+remaining edge of the collar and hemstitch it into place to cover all
+raw edges.
 
 Sleeves
 ^^^^^^^